^ i bet the hi ambient temps there have everything to do with that decision. the higher grade stays stuck longer lol

 

But it's dry heat at 115

 

5-40W here but I only use Liqui-Moly (That is my oil of choice for all my german cars of the past and present). I will not put mobil 1 my porsche and that was from experience with my Audi S4. Mobil 1 was always noisy on startup and about 1.5 qt of consumption every oil change , LiquiMoly zero issues on startup and consumption was less than a quart.
And that engine was damn hot all the time

 

I use it and love it. Not only does it have a decent zddp content (1000ppm) but I run it in my corvette track car. After 7 years I tore the engine down and the bearings looked great. This car saw 300° oil temps on track a few years ago before I had the cooling sorted out. After the rebuild I saw the cam was starting to eat itself which has nothing to do with oil, so I switched to 0-50 Mobil racing, which has a zddp of 1850 ppm, which is huge. I'm a Mobil fan.

 

You don't eat oil because of oil..that's because audi motors are crap with piston ring failures.

 

0-40 is fine for any weather. I'm a huge believer in a super thin cold weight to get oil moving fast on start ups. That helps the bearings after 1000 start ups over time. Especially with oil coolers that eat up some oil pressure

 

Maybe anecdotal but since owning the car for over 120K miles and between uses of mobil 1 and liqui-moly, my oil consumption was lower with liqui moly than mobil 1. The startup noise with the oil was worth me stock up on the latter.

Can't say the 4.2l V8 audi was crap since I never had any issues with it other than when I sold it at 145K it was due for timing chain guides were due at 100K

 

yeah, dry and getting dryer every day from what i hear. theres not even any undegound water left in kali. gonna get ugly here pretty soon.

 

I wonder why there is a class action lawsuit against them for oil consumption then...hum

 

You can have some of ours. Rain rain and more rain.

 

w're in some serious trouble re water here. they're under-reporting the severity, methinks.

 

From my reading the water problem in California and neighboring states is much worse then they would like the public to believe. Hopefully things will turn around. On the oil topic its nice to see we are revisiting the weight debate as I never get tired of the opinions lol.

 

Really 0w-04 is just fine. I've run it in both of my cars in 116F to 119F heat of the southwest desert with no problems.

If at 85F 0w-40 is not good enough, not "thick" enough, the engine has problems that a 5w-40 or even a 5w-50 oil is not going to solve.

That story about draining the oil and driving the vehicles around a test track is just so out there... come on. Do you really believe some oil additive in that small of a quantity could really take the place of oil? Heck even if all the "oil" consisted of just that Slick 50 additive and then to drain it out... Gimme a break.

0w-40 has good cold flow characteristics and yet has the "40" to offer protection in high temp/high pressure situations.

I would only add that if one lived in a very year round mild climate and wanted to run a "thicker" oil that 5w-50 (not a typo for 15w-50!) oil would be a good oil choice.

Up here in northern CA where winters are mild (seldom below freezing) and summers can be blazing hot (116F is the record high while 100F+ is quite common) I run both of my engines with this oil nowadays. But they both covered a lot of miles with 0w-40 with no issues. In fact the Turbo has 0w-40 oil in it right now -- courtesy of an oil/filter service I had done in Jan. this year at a mid-west dealer while I was back there on family business when it came time to oil/filter service the engine) and the engine is just fine. The engine has another 1000+ miles to go before it is due for its 5K mile oil/filter service and when the time comes I'll have 5w-50 used.

 

Using the oil recommendation for an engine built by someone as input into one's decision to use an oil is wrong.

Built engines can have quite different clearances/oil needs and what a built engine requires has no bearing on what a stock street engine requires.

While you are using a 10w/60 oil based on an engine builder's usage, I have come across engines built that require a 0w/00 oil. The engine is built with this oil in mind as this oil generates the least amount of hydraulic friction which is HP robbing.

The only real authority on what these engines require in the way of oil is Porsche. If one ventures off the reservation, so to speak, and choose to ignore Porsche, he can justify his oil selection by any means he wants. Doesn't mean selection has any real basis for being the right selection, though.

 

http://skepdic.com/comments/slickcom.html

At that time, engine management systems were not chip-controlled and, after changing the oil and filter and introducing Slick 50, the treatment could be completed by idling the engine for 30 minutes. During that period users invariably found (I know I did!) that the idle setting had to be continually backed off as friction reduction caused the idle speed to increase.

As an empirical test, we also took three ordinary saloon cars to Mallory Park racing circuit. Two had been given the Slick 50 treatment. On arrival all three had the engine oil drained from the sump and were then driven around the circuit at a steady 50 mph. I recall that the untreated engine seized up within one mile, but the other two lapped continuously for 50 untroubled laps - one was being driven by rally champion Roger Clark.