996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Looking for tips on a clutch job 996 turbo

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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MalcolmV8
None that I'm aware of. I haven't pulled any of the covers though and inspected the fuel system myself but he listed nothing. I take it you're not a fan of the softronic tunes. They suck? 550 awhp sounds more realistic the way the car feels. I wouldn't mind finding a local four wheel dyno and testing it out.

Who are the go to guys for tuning these cars? Is better power an option with my k24/18 turbos? I'm not looking to go insane with the 996 just yet. My yellow car is already a crazy insane monster, I quite like the 996 been civil but quick.

No torque sockets needed? only certain models have those? I have a few from my BMW anyways, possibly those would fit if it did come up.


Hello Malcom,
You can give me a call at 203-723-8928. Your car may not even have our software in it as we get many calls that people think they do and it was another vendors. We have then re-tuned many of those also. If it had a Softronic file in it for 24/18 it would have to have at least a 5bar or 60, 72lb injectors. All the Switzer cars used 72lb injectors and others we worked on with Proto used 60lb typically and some with and without a Greddy. Most of these have all run 500awd or so on a Mustang when done in which is over 600bhp.


Best Regards,
Scott
 
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
just my preference but no I'm not a fan of softronics. best tuner hands down for factory dme would be todd knighton from protomotive. or try a cobb tuning setup from undercover tuning. or go all in like me and run full standalone proefi from undercover!

search member john speed on here. he has a great proto tuned k24/18 setup. about 625 to the wheels and zero issues. if your running k24/118 and tune there should be fueling upgrades. your idc is going to be maxed at factory injectors and a single pump . silly rabbit motorsports has a great fuel system and good for 1000+ hp.

i actually have 2 drivelines sitting in my garage right now. ill take some pics for you to give you an idea of what your going to be doing on your back. i have to drop one of the trans for a shift fork replacement .
Thanks for those two references on tuning. I looked them up and booked marked it. I'll look more into that.

How do you guys data log on these cars? So on my Fords I use a piece of hardware called an X3 sold but SCT. It has an ODB2 plug on one end and other other side has a USB cable to your laptop with matching software and you can datalog all the pids you want from fuel pump duty cycle to intake air temps, ignition timing etc. etc. In fact I have the tuning software and tune my own car.

I imagine there's something similar for these cars?

I did some searching and still reading up on combos with K24/18g turbos and it seems the norm is more like 500 whp and some around 550 with free flowing exhaust, high flow cats.
Now in all fairness the previous owner did say 650 hp at the motor. I'm still thinking that was over shooting but it's OK. I'll check it out on the dyno one day.

Thanks for offering to take pics of the drivetrain you have out. That should be interesting to see.

FYI if there are any good links that explain what k24 and 18g mean, or the specs behind them etc. feel free to throw this way. All the threads I find assume you already know exactly what those turbos are.
 
Old Apr 25, 2015 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
just my preference but no I'm not a fan of softronics. best tuner hands down for factory dme would be todd knighton from protomotive.
Years ago when I installed my protomotive tune from Todd, I uploaded it from the Softronic server...I always thought that Softronic and Protomotive used the same tune for K24/18G's.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Softronic
Hello Malcom,
You can give me a call at 203-723-8928. Your car may not even have our software in it as we get many calls that people think they do and it was another vendors. We have then re-tuned many of those also. If it had a Softronic file in it for 24/18 it would have to have at least a 5bar or 60, 72lb injectors. All the Switzer cars used 72lb injectors and others we worked on with Proto used 60lb typically and some with and without a Greddy. Most of these have all run 500awd or so on a Mustang when done in which is over 600bhp.


Best Regards,
Scott
Hi Scott,

I'll give you guys a call on Monday and see if we can figure it out. I'd be interested to know. The car came from CA tuned on 91 octane. I have 93 here in Kansas City and would love to get the tune revised to take advantage of that assuming the previous owner was correct and it was your tune.

I'll do some digging soon when I get in there for the clutch and see what injectors I have. I imagine I'll need to pull the sending unit in the fuel tank out to check on the pump. I'll get some pics and others can tell me if that's stock or modified.

You lost me on a few terms. What's a "switzer" car? Also what do you mean with or without a "greddy"?

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Malcolm
 
Old Apr 26, 2015 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MalcolmV8
Thanks for those two references on tuning. I looked them up and booked marked it. I'll look more into that.

How do you guys data log on these cars? So on my Fords I use a piece of hardware called an X3 sold but SCT. It has an ODB2 plug on one end and other other side has a USB cable to your laptop with matching software and you can datalog all the pids you want from fuel pump duty cycle to intake air temps, ignition timing etc. etc. In fact I have the tuning software and tune my own car.

I imagine there's something similar for these cars?

I did some searching and still reading up on combos with K24/18g turbos and it seems the norm is more like 500 whp and some around 550 with free flowing exhaust, high flow cats.
Now in all fairness the previous owner did say 650 hp at the motor. I'm still thinking that was over shooting but it's OK. I'll check it out on the dyno one day.

Thanks for offering to take pics of the drivetrain you have out. That should be interesting to see.

FYI if there are any good links that explain what k24 and 18g mean, or the specs behind them etc. feel free to throw this way. All the threads I find assume you already know exactly what those turbos are.
durametric is a software you purchase with obdII cable to usb. its good for 3 vin # so you can sell it later down the road. dataloging on these cars is a bit slow due to the technology. if your into self tuning look at the maestro suite 7 or proefi. proefi logs over 100 pics every millisecond.
k24 refers to the turbos 18g refers to how much money you will spend in the next couple yrs modding once the bug hits~ look up blouch turbos as they did most of the 18g swaps. its a mitsubishi wheel in a k24 housing. non ball bearing

Originally Posted by MalcolmV8
Hi Scott,

You lost me on a few terms. What's a "switzer" car? Also what do you mean with or without a "greddy"?

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Malcolm
most likely theres an added pump back by the fuel filter. it was how a lot did it back in the early modding days. switzer is a car shop that builds porsches and other cars that use softronic and greedy is a boost controller mounted in the cabin
 
Old Apr 27, 2015 | 01:24 AM
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Go back to the main 996turbo forum page. 7th thread from the top. Sticky. Durametric Logging 101: How to Log, What to Log, and What to do with it Afterwards

Originally Posted by MalcolmV8
You lost me on a few terms. What's a "switzer" car? Also what do you mean with or without a "greddy"?

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Malcolm
https://www.google.de/#q=switzer%20996%20turbo
https://www.google.de/#q=greddy+996+turbo

Ever hear the term "spoon feeding"? LOL - JK
It is much faster to look this stuff up yourself - though you do have to put names like switzer or greddy into context if you google, so add 996 turbo. Or Porsche. Or similar.
Threads tend to stay more on track without all the tangents too.
 
Old Apr 27, 2015 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by stevemfr
Ever hear the term "spoon feeding"? LOL - JK
It is much faster to look this stuff up yourself - though you do have to put names like switzer or greddy into context if you google, so add 996 turbo. Or Porsche. Or similar.
Threads tend to stay more on track without all the tangents too.
I try not to be one of those and have been reading up and googling a lot. Some stuff is hard though. I'm familiar with the brand Greddy but they make turbos, wastegates, exhausts, boost controllers and a ton of other stuff, or at least resell if not make. When he said if your car has a 'Greddy' it left a lot to be desired. A Greddy what? Obviously I've since realized the lingo on this forum is referring to a boost controller.
 
Old Apr 27, 2015 | 05:14 PM
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ok heres a bunch of pics of what your going to get into. let me know if you have any questions

pic 1 is were you start. remove the vent cover and expose the clutch fork rod
pic 2 is a 8mmx80mm bolt that gets threaded into the rod to allow you to pull it out
pic3 is the locking tab and bolt that holds the rod in place. notice theres only 1 cap on the rod. the other stayed in the bell housing mount with 25+ needle bearings in it. don't lose the bearings!!

pic 4 sorry its out of order. this is the locking tab , bolt and cup that has to be removed to gain access to the rod. the black cap has to be pried out but only angle needlenose pliers will fit in the hole.


everything you see is tucked in along the suspension and frame. so you have no way to get your head in there to see what your doing. this is were the fiber optic camera comes in.

last pic is of the trans mount nuts. no allen or torx. 2 on top 2 on the bottom. the pass side upper stud is longer than the other 3. double nut it and remove it. it will help when your dropping the trans out. starter has to come out as well.
i don't have the factory power assisted setup so no pics of that. basically the bolts are virtually unreachable and you will bang your head bleed at the knuckles getting to the last bolt to remove it. leave the line attached and hang it on the side with a bungee cord.


i did this on a maxjax with no help. once everything is removed the jack will allow you to pull it out. i added 2 4x4 to the base to reach and support the trans. took me the better part of 2 days to remove and reinstall the trans. i now can remove the engine and trans in about 6 hrs and drop the trans in 30 mins after its out. your choice
go ahead and order a 23 spline alignment tool. your going to need it
 
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Last edited by 32krazy!; Apr 27, 2015 at 06:00 PM.
Old Apr 28, 2015 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
ok heres a bunch of pics of what your going to get into. let me know if you have any questions

pic 1 is were you start. remove the vent cover and expose the clutch fork rod
pic 2 is a 8mmx80mm bolt that gets threaded into the rod to allow you to pull it out
pic3 is the locking tab and bolt that holds the rod in place. notice theres only 1 cap on the rod. the other stayed in the bell housing mount with 25+ needle bearings in it. don't lose the bearings!!

pic 4 sorry its out of order. this is the locking tab , bolt and cup that has to be removed to gain access to the rod. the black cap has to be pried out but only angle needlenose pliers will fit in the hole.


everything you see is tucked in along the suspension and frame. so you have no way to get your head in there to see what your doing. this is were the fiber optic camera comes in.

last pic is of the trans mount nuts. no allen or torx. 2 on top 2 on the bottom. the pass side upper stud is longer than the other 3. double nut it and remove it. it will help when your dropping the trans out. starter has to come out as well.
i don't have the factory power assisted setup so no pics of that. basically the bolts are virtually unreachable and you will bang your head bleed at the knuckles getting to the last bolt to remove it. leave the line attached and hang it on the side with a bungee cord.


i did this on a maxjax with no help. once everything is removed the jack will allow you to pull it out. i added 2 4x4 to the base to reach and support the trans. took me the better part of 2 days to remove and reinstall the trans. i now can remove the engine and trans in about 6 hrs and drop the trans in 30 mins after its out. your choice
go ahead and order a 23 spline alignment tool. your going to need it

Thanks man I really appreciate you taking the time to do that. I can see my bore scope is going to come in super handy doing this job.
I've had some horrendous to reach bolts on various cars over the years. We'll see how this compares on the power assist setup.

I'm surprised the clutch kits don't come with an alignment tool. I'll be sure and grab one of those.
8 mm x 80 mm bolt. Great info there. Thanks again. With all this prep and pre-research from you guys this is going to be so much easier first time around.
 
Old Apr 29, 2015 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
just my preference but no I'm not a fan of softronics. best tuner hands down for factory dme would be todd knighton from protomotive. or try a cobb tuning setup from undercover tuning. or go all in like me and run full standalone proefi from undercover!

search member john speed on here. he has a great proto tuned k24/18 setup. about 625 to the wheels and zero issues. if your running k24/118 and tune there should be fueling upgrades. your idc is going to be maxed at factory injectors and a single pump . silly rabbit motorsports has a great fuel system and good for 1000+ hp.

i actually have 2 drivelines sitting in my garage right now. ill take some pics for you to give you an idea of what your going to be doing on your back. i have to drop one of the trans for a shift fork replacement .
Wait, didn't softronic do work on Proto cars? I'm pretty sure you are not-recommending and recommending the same tune. lol
 

Last edited by NTIMD8; Apr 29, 2015 at 10:56 AM.
Old Apr 29, 2015 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by NTIMD8
Wait, didn't softronic do work on Proto cars? I'm pretty sure you are not-recommending and recommending the same tune. lol
if i am correct ( and i may not be) todd may use the softronic software but the tunes are his and his alone. if i would recommend any software it would be proefi and no factory dme. if i had to use the factory computer i would beg my tuner to do it and if he wouldn't then i would consider todd


malcomv8 i may have given the wrong size bolt. i believe its a 6mm and 80 mm long
 
Old May 1, 2015 | 07:32 AM
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No worries, thanks for the update on the bolt size
 
Old May 14, 2015 | 10:37 AM
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Well the white car is almost out of here. Had some delays with the machine shop holding it up. So yesterday I ordered the 2.5 clutch kit. Should be here Saturday. Getting closer
 
Old May 15, 2015 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by NTIMD8
Wait, didn't softronic do work on Proto cars? I'm pretty sure you are not-recommending and recommending the same tune. lol


The only thing CrapTronic did was take money from tuners that used the Durametric system. Since then a lot of tuners phased CrapTronic out of there work life due to not wanting to have to pay him and deal with him no more.


If Scott (Private Pyle) is willing to re tune your car for free I still just might pay someone else to do it!
 
Old May 15, 2015 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Engine Guy
The only thing CrapTronic did was take money from tuners that used the Durametric system. Since then a lot of tuners phased CrapTronic out of there work life due to not wanting to have to pay him and deal with him no more.


If Scott (Private Pyle) is willing to re tune your car for free I still just might pay someone else to do it!


Just for the record this individual has NEVER purchased a Softronic product. He received a free Pro cable we gave him from a group buy that he started with only a few customers and they were already Softronic customers. He then wanted it activated for another tuner.... We did not as he was to buy a file from us as agreed, so here we are. He has posted unsubstantiated claims and not worth the reading. Im not aware of any tuners that do not work with Softronic any further do to issues he stated including Protomotive, Switzer, Euro Sport, Bilt Racing, Speedsport and to many to list. Ones that I do not though was by our choice in their support to customers ..... Softronic still makes files for Tuners that use our system to flash and others....


Just another if I read it on the Internet it must be true LOL.


Best,
Scott
 
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