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its a combo of the disk and the flywheel and also could be ims gear noise being masked by the original dual mass flywheel.
Not saying you're wrong but trying to wrap my head around it. How can the disk be making a noise? It only happens when the car is in neutral and the clutch is engaged (foot off the clutch). At that point the disk is clamped and just along for the ride. I could see if you pressed the clutch in and got a noise because then the disk would be vibrating potentially between the pressure plate and flywheel.
In my specific case I believe it's the transmission making the noise because it only happens once fully warmed, in neutral and foot off the clutch. If I had to guess because the oil has thinned out and the gears are vibrating in there.
I picked up the Delvac today but still in a power outage so probably won't get to swap it till tomorrow.
After mocking up the new GT2 clutch fork (mirror image of the stock one) I saw it was catching on the bell housing area there a little. I took an air die grinder and cleared out a little material to fix that.
I haven't done this mod but plan to. Question, isn't the location of the slave critical to how it mates to the clutch fork on the inside (your second picture above)? How do you best align it from the outside if this is indeed the case or is there some allowable slop for slightly "mis-positioned" slave from the outside?
Great write up and pictures....thank you for taking the time to share!
I haven't done this mod but plan to. Question, isn't the location of the slave critical to how it mates to the clutch fork on the inside (your second picture above)? How do you best align it from the outside if this is indeed the case or is there some allowable slop for slightly "mis-positioned" slave from the outside?
Great write up and pictures....thank you for taking the time to share!
the rod in the slave has movement in it. the ball seat of the fork is larger than the rod. if you line up the slave on the outside edge of the trans your golden
I haven't done this mod but plan to. Question, isn't the location of the slave critical to how it mates to the clutch fork on the inside (your second picture above)? How do you best align it from the outside if this is indeed the case or is there some allowable slop for slightly "mis-positioned" slave from the outside?
Great write up and pictures....thank you for taking the time to share!
Well the slave has the shape of the bell housing edge which shows you how to line it up. The clutch fork used is a mirror image of the original so you can use the original hole in the bell housing as a reference. I then used a straight edge to line up and make a mirror image hole if you will on the other side in spec of the original hole and also using the slave body as a guide too.
You do get some wiggle room but using that method it was spot on.
Quick Update on the noise. I drained the redline and put delvac in today and it made no difference in the noise once fully warmed.
Something very interesting, the redline drained out black like dirty motor oil. I was shocked as the original oil in there from the prior owner and thousands of miles of use drained out golden clear like new fluid. This tells me something is wrong, perhaps when it rattles real bad it's causing metal on metal wear putting a metallic dust in the oil turning it black? Not sure, guessing here but something doesn't seem right.
I'll get a transmission mount ordered up and if that doesn't fix it then not sure how you guys are getting such quiet operation with light weight single mass flywheels. I'll have to go back to the stock dual mass for nice quiet operation again.
Well the slave has the shape of the bell housing edge which shows you how to line it up. The clutch fork used is a mirror image of the original so you can use the original hole in the bell housing as a reference. I then used a straight edge to line up and make a mirror image hole if you will on the other side in spec of the original hole and also using the slave body as a guide too.
You do get some wiggle room but using that method it was spot on.
Quick Update on the noise. I drained the redline and put delvac in today and it made no difference in the noise once fully warmed.
Something very interesting, the redline drained out black like dirty motor oil. I was shocked as the original oil in there from the prior owner and thousands of miles of use drained out golden clear like new fluid. This tells me something is wrong, perhaps when it rattles real bad it's causing metal on metal wear putting a metallic dust in the oil turning it black? Not sure, guessing here but something doesn't seem right.
I'll get a transmission mount ordered up and if that doesn't fix it then not sure how you guys are getting such quiet operation with light weight single mass flywheels. I'll have to go back to the stock dual mass for nice quiet operation again.
all thats needed is to line the slave up on the edge of the mount. mark the holes and drill. center the holes and mark the middle drill. done
malcom the trans mount won't make the clutch chatter nor will it make the oil darker due to metal on metal wear. you have a different issue. the 74 durometer rating is similar to a semi solid. I'm betting close to a gt3 style mount. its not your problem is the clutch tube sleeve the proper length?
malcom the trans mount won't make the clutch chatter nor will it make the oil darker due to metal on metal wear. you have a different issue. the 74 durometer rating is similar to a semi solid. I'm betting close to a gt3 style mount. its not your problem is the clutch tube sleeve the proper length?
Yes I got the longer version. Stock on the left and the longer one on the right is the new one I installed.
Yes I got the longer version. Stock on the left and the longer one on the right is the new one I installed.
i guess my question would be are you sure a longer version is required? on my carbonetics clutch a longer tube is used. when i installed the erp clutch it goes back to the stock version. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the throwout bearing and how short or long the ears are on it
the redline drained out black like dirty motor oil. I was shocked as the original oil in there from the prior owner and thousands of miles of use drained out golden clear like new fluid.
i recently drained/swapped my delvac and it also looked just like honey coming out. approx 12/15k miles.
fyi dirty oil means the oil is doing its job. clean oil means it isn't grabbing the particles like it should. the plug in the bottom tells the real tale. how much metal do you have? since the oil change was within a few hundred miles you have an obvious issue. any dust from the clutchis irrelevant and is outside of the trans . this is an issue with gears or differential.
i guess my question would be are you sure a longer version is required? on my carbonetics clutch a longer tube is used. when i installed the erp clutch it goes back to the stock version. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the throwout bearing and how short or long the ears are on it
Correct. So when using the GT3 RS flywheel it's much smaller which pulls the whole clutch assembly closer to the motor including the throw out bearing. So you need a longer guide tube to reach further down to where the bearing is now. The GT3 throw out bearing then has longer ears to keep the clutch fork in the stock location. You can sort of see it in this pic.
Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i recently drained/swapped my delvac and it also looked just like honey coming out. approx 12/15k miles.
Yes that's what I would expect.
Originally Posted by 32krazy!
fyi dirty oil means the oil is doing its job. clean oil means it isn't grabbing the particles like it should. the plug in the bottom tells the real tale. how much metal do you have? since the oil change was within a few hundred miles you have an obvious issue. any dust from the clutchis irrelevant and is outside of the trans . this is an issue with gears or differential.
Well dirty oil in an engine I'd agree is doing its job. It gets a lot of blow by and hydro carbons to deal with. However in non engines, such as air compressors, transmissions etc. it usually stays golden color. The part that I'm unsure about is the rear gears since this is a transaxle and not just a regular manual transmission. A regular rearend in normal cars turns oil black from metal wear. Perhaps I've seen some of that but at only 150 miles its not from normal wear. It almost has to be the rattle once things warm up as that's the only thing that's changed.
The magnet on the drain plug had a huge mound of fine stuff the first time I pulled it and drained what ever fluid the prior owner had in there. It was clear from the size of the mount on the plug it had been in there for many thousands of miles. That fluid drained golden yellow.
When I drained the fluid after only 150 miles since the clutch job and rattle the drain plug had barely anything on it. It did have some black stuff though I had to wipe away with a paper towel.
As for swapping to Delvac, still have the noise. The more I drove it yesterday I think the noise might be less. I think it is a little better than what it was on the redline but still pretty bad. The car has cooled completely twice since putting in Delvac and I did notice it takes a little longer for the noise to return than with redline. To me it seems like its most definitely a noise once the transaxle oil heats up.
I'm not sure I understand. Did you launch your car with your 18g using the stock clutch?
I'm not sure what this is in reference to but no I was unable to launch the car hard. Even at a 20 mph roll in 1st gear if you stomped on the gas the stock clutch just slipped and the engine RPMs wrapped up while the car went no where. I don't know if the stock clutch was just worn or if it was over powered. I purchased the car that way.
Correct. So when using the GT3 RS flywheel it's much smaller which pulls the whole clutch assembly closer to the motor including the throw out bearing. So you need a longer guide tube to reach further down to where the bearing is now. The GT3 throw out bearing then has longer ears to keep the clutch fork in the stock location. You can sort of see it in this pic.
Yes that's what I would expect.
Well dirty oil in an engine I'd agree is doing its job. It gets a lot of blow by and hydro carbons to deal with. However in non engines, such as air compressors, transmissions etc. it usually stays golden color. The part that I'm unsure about is the rear gears since this is a transaxle and not just a regular manual transmission. A regular rearend in normal cars turns oil black from metal wear. Perhaps I've seen some of that but at only 150 miles its not from normal wear. It almost has to be the rattle once things warm up as that's the only thing that's changed.
The magnet on the drain plug had a huge mound of fine stuff the first time I pulled it and drained what ever fluid the prior owner had in there. It was clear from the size of the mount on the plug it had been in there for many thousands of miles. That fluid drained golden yellow.
When I drained the fluid after only 150 miles since the clutch job and rattle the drain plug had barely anything on it. It did have some black stuff though I had to wipe away with a paper towel.
As for swapping to Delvac, still have the noise. The more I drove it yesterday I think the noise might be less. I think it is a little better than what it was on the redline but still pretty bad. The car has cooled completely twice since putting in Delvac and I did notice it takes a little longer for the noise to return than with redline. To me it seems like its most definitely a noise once the transaxle oil heats up.
My Delvac comes out a light brown color after 8 track days when I change it. I would imagine the amount of rattle will depend on the the tolerances within the gearbox input shaft and gears. Maybe mine has very tight tolerances thus the virtual lack of gear noise with the LWFW. Again, as a last ditch effort, I would install a new OEM transmission mount. What engine mounts are you running? I have the 964RS engine mounts.
Finally, keep in mind that you have basically the same clutch set up as is on the 997GT3RS4.0/GT2RS. Those cars also have minimal noise, actually identical to what I'm seeing on my car. I'm beginning to think you have an unusually large mount of gear lash which is contribution to the excess noise.
My Delvac comes out a light brown color after 8 track days when I change it. I would imagine the amount of rattle will depend on the the tolerances within the gearbox input shaft and gears. Maybe mine has very tight tolerances thus the virtual lack of gear noise with the LWFW. Again, as a last ditch effort, I would install a new OEM transmission mount. What engine mounts are you running? I have the 964RS engine mounts.
Finally, keep in mind that you have basically the same clutch set up as is on the 997GT3RS4.0/GT2RS. Those cars also have minimal noise, actually identical to what I'm seeing on my car. I'm beginning to think you have an unusually large mount of gear lash which is contribution to the excess noise.
It's possible I have larger tolerances in the gearbox. The car is almost at 105k miles now. I found a used OEM engine mount for about $70. It looks to be in good shape, guy just upgraded to 997 mount. I'll see if I can pick that up and see what if any difference it makes.
Currently I'm running the OEM mount filled with urethane (window weld). I filled the mount while doing the clutch job.