He's testing higher but that's all he's been seeing on his stock gauge which is why he was asking what others see.

 

I am. If you take a look at my post it shows the pressure I am testing at and what the dash gauge is reading when doing the test. The system itself is holding 30psi of pressure but the dash gauge is only reading .3bar. This might be just what all cars do when the car is not on and it sees pressure. Only someone else doing a pressure test can confirm this.

 

i did a pressure test at stand still and the dash gauge shows only 0.2bar....maybe you have to go on throttle at stand still to become a real time result...

under wot i get 1.5 with a spike of 1.6 bar...

so at all take a look at your wastegates and n75.....

 

Kind of makes sense no? That the boost gauge would read low as it's ECU/Map based and not seeing a direct vac signal. It may also use the TPS, I have no idea.

 

Is the MAP sensor that the gauge uses before or after the throttle.. IF after then I can see why the sensor will see limited pressure... the flapper is probably closed........

 

Ya exactly. I don't think it's a direct reading of the map sensor.

 

The map is before the TB.

 

Both have been looked at.

 

Hard to believe both turbos are bad?

 

It could only be one turbo bad and the second cannot make the commanded pressure level for 3.6liters. The dash signal is driven by the DME and not directly from the MAP sensor. When you switch to a ProEFI the ECU drives the signal and it's apparently capable of reading above what the stock DME can do

I'm betting, since he's tried nearly everything else and the turbo builder spotted issues, that it's a turbo and switching back will bring his boost online. Hopefully the seller continues to work with hi to solve this issue and refund his cash if that's the case...

 

I guess I will know for sure this weekend. The seller was a bit insultedthat I was insinuating the turbos he sold me were bad but that is understandablesince no one wants to be accused of anything. I do believe that he believed the turbos were fine and he was not out toscrew me. He is still adamant that the turbos are good but he said if I sendthem back to him in the same condition as I received them (he must meanmechanically since they have now been installed and on the car for 50 miles sothey will no longer look new) he would refund me minus the shipping costs forme to send him the turbos. So after this weekend I will know if it is theturbos or not and if it is the turbos I will send them back for a refund and ifI still can’t boost with my stock turbos then I will obviously keep the turbosand not send them back for a refund.

 

Well I swapped the stock turbos back in and it made no difference so the K24/20G billets I bought are fine. So I put them back in of course.


Im now thinking the issue has to be with the diverter valve area. If the turbos are good, the system holds pressure and tying up the waste gate actuators so the waste gates cant open made no difference then what else other than diverter valves could it be?


I took the DVs out last week and didn't look like they were torn. Used a mitivac to test them and they opened and stayed open.


Today I took off the vacuum lines on top of the DVs but doesn't seem like that made a difference. I will have to research the DV system more and think of what I will be doing next. But if I took the vacuum lines off the top and assuming the DVs are the problem then the only way the boost would bleed off is if the DVs are torn.


Also my understanding is if the DVs are installed backwards then the boost will bleed off when the boost overpowers the spring but I checked and looks like they are hooked up correctly.

 

I'm sure you must have checked this first, but have you tried just unplugging the N75 valve? Go for a drive and do a "controlled" acceleration? If you boost over .9, you know your N75 is bad? VERY simple test, again, if you haven't already done it...

 

So I was originally seeing .8 to .9bar then eventually it went down to .5 bar. I discovered today that it went down to .5 bar because when I was diagnosing the original low boost issue and testing things I must have but the check valve off the N249 valve on backwards. So fixed that and seeing .8 to .9 bar again.

I tested the N75 when I was seeing only .5 bar so I will test it again now that the check valve is pointed the correct way.

 

Aw man that sux! I had really hoped that this would find it for you after everything you've been through. That's a ton of work to not find a solution, very sorry to hear