I need one of these, it says these are cylinder base gaskets.

Product Details
This multi-layered gasket seals the cylinder housing to the crankcase. One required per bank.

Anyone know the PN for the 3.8 head gaskets?

 

+1...Funny, just read this whole thread, wait let me rephrase, frightening thread. While I miss my turbo, I was getting dangerously close to a rebuild. I knew most of these numbers, or at least the neighborhood of a rebuild and frankly bailed. I just had to build my LS engine late last year...brand new LSA block, brand new LSA crank, forged rods and pistons, basically a brand new short block, all in for about $7k, and I was pissed about that. I cant imagine spending $20k, $30k or more on a 10-15 year old car, that is still depreciating. I plan to own my Caddy until I wear this new engine out, and at only 700whp, probably won't.

 

are you using the stock 10mm head studs or using the 12mm head studs. 12mm require a custom gasket we have made for our motor builds.

understand there are 2 different sets of gaskets. one set that goes between the crankshaft case and the cylinder housing and 1 set that goes between the cylinder housing and the heads. cylinder base and head gaskets are different gaskets

 

If your getting basic rods and head studs for 15K? That's way to high.

 

did you get yours done cheaper? Theres very few people that will do it drastically cheaper

Full gasket Kit 1800$ from EBS
1-2k for studs, not including machine work if 12mm
2k for rods
new bearings from porsche 550$ish
replace, zero hoses, no added labor for pinning coolant lines and the lowest number i got calling around was 7200$ for labor to diassemble and reassemble the motor. above quote on the low side is 12k, if you replace a few hoses here and there, put in some new spark plugs, coil packs, Pinn the coolant lines, replace anything else easy 15k or more.

ask anyone thats done it Very few get their motor built less then that 15k mark including Misc charges.

its not impossible just very unlikely.

personally the labor to assemble my bottom end was 6800, machine work and studs was around 3800(shuffle pinning, Boat tailing, 12mm head stud install, flycutting the oil galley holes on crank, balancing etc.) gasket set was 1800, which did not include head gaskets as they were special order(O ring'd heads) retail on those from vendor in Europe was 800$ (luckily i got deal on these and didn't pay that.) Lifter cost was like 1800$ or something, new timing chains, Weld in Fittings for coolant lines, Things escalate very quickly once that thing is opened up.

Just want to warn new comers that get hit with a bill they don't expect when tearing into one of these motors. Do your Research Before you get slapped with a big bill.

 

full gasket kit from ebs WITH all crank and rod bearings is 1650
12mm head studs with custom gaskets and machine work from srm 2000
carillo or pauter rods your choice 1700
labor for full teardown and rebuild from srm 6000
(motor removal and reinstall from car is of course extra)
that total is 11450 with plenty leftover to replace every hose vacuum line weld the fittings and get some turbos

what your quoting with all the extra bottom end mods the 997 lifters are well in excess of a simple rod and headstud install which allows most on here to push the motor to close to 900+ without fear.

 

If were gonna be fair about pricing you should add in the cost to drop the motor Guessing mechanic will want around 1000-1500 for this service, and ship it across country to the builder.probably 500ish depending on where your from in relation to SRM.

Just to be clear i have nothing against SRM i have some of their parts on my Build.

Were just discussing prices here for others who haven't made the leap like us.

 

my costs listed were in relation to yours. you didn't price dropping the motor or shipping so i didn't either. these would be added costs no matter who the builder is. we have most builds minus the car. the motor is shipped via pallet and we do whats needed. we welcome full cars but thats up to the customer. i always try to be as complete as possible about the cost because even things like fluids add up. there are a bunch of little things like clamps that many charge for and srm chooses to buy in large bulk so he can simply replace the worms out stuff most have . its just his way of doing things.

a simple rod and stud build would be much cheaper than a full on build that many of us get into (point at me here!!) the old tale if "do it while your in there" takes on a whole new meaning when it comes to 1000+ hp builds. lets not even talk about the trans , clutch and suspension!!

 

I guess i should have been more specific mine included R&R, But shipping charges to machine shop as it was not in-house gotta factor those in too. lots to think about on this stuff for the new guys just getting their feet wet. There's just no way anyone's getting In and Out of this engine cheaply if they want it to stay together.

 

Good read...


Helpful!

Agreed, it's obviously more expensive to own a Porsche.

My extremely modified Z06 (that I just sold for a 15 y/o 996 TT) was a pretty awesome car. It was a lot cheaper to build/own than a 911. Then again it was a Chevy. No comparison IMO. Apples and oranges. Faster or not, Porsche is in a different league.

How's that depreciation on your modified GM?
(I do like V's btw)