MAF replacement issues...
OP. 2 things: First, check your MAF connector. I've heard of the pins coming loose or breaking. Make sure you have the right voltage on the right pins. Second, while I haven't had my 996 turbo for years, I THOUGHT I had a MAF problem, so I bought one. Turns out I had a bad vacuum leak and never used it. Just went downstairs and found it, brand new in the box, Bosch, with the green O ring. Because of the issue you've been having, it's yours if you want it. PM me.


For what it's worth, I had the original 60k mile MAF on my car through my whole 3 years of modding. I sold the car with the MAF that I bought it with, and it's still working. Point is, I'm not convinced your MAF is actually bad, but it could be. Forgot you were WAY North. Not sure what shipping would be up that way, from CT.
Yup, you can test the maf with a DC volt meter:
Pull up the rubber boot covering connections on MAF. You will be testing the pin furthest away from you when standing behind the car. Use the grounding lug of the fuel filter that is near by for ground.
With car off but ignition in position 2 you should get between .9 and 1.1 volts.
Then start the car and get it warmed up and test voltage again. Now you should get 1.2 to 1.5 volts.
You may already know this but figured I'd throw it up for anyone else.
Pull up the rubber boot covering connections on MAF. You will be testing the pin furthest away from you when standing behind the car. Use the grounding lug of the fuel filter that is near by for ground.
With car off but ignition in position 2 you should get between .9 and 1.1 volts.
Then start the car and get it warmed up and test voltage again. Now you should get 1.2 to 1.5 volts.
You may already know this but figured I'd throw it up for anyone else.
does your box there have either the 986 ( is that it on the bosch box? ) or the 124.00 part #? mine ended in "124-00" as in ttboosts pic (iirc) i'm pretty sure it had the oem part # but it matters not.
i have always been told and always believed they are essentially the same part, and work equally well. is this not so?
before i knew any better i got a cpl from a vendor on ebay "foreverunauto" and they were shyte! and the diode was definitely inferior. i went thru 2 in rapid succession, and will never *again*! knowingly buy a refurb or a tawainese knockoff. i traced down the website of the maker of fake bosch knockoffs, and they advertise that have the capacity to supply THOUSANDS of them! oh the joy. thousands of fake 124.00 mafs

but agree with all. fake knockoff mafs run like shyte or they fry the diode the minute you peg the limiter, which hasn't happened tp me since spending the $125 for a new oem bosch ( still, a killer deal i have not seen since! theyre like 200/250+ now everywhere..) i mean fry the diode.. I've pegged it

also.. given I'm ranting ( sorry ). folks ( some ) forget to do the simple tb reset when they swap the maf, and that can have you scratching your head for minute after it won't idle right upon replacing lol. /rantoff sorry..
more i look at that box.. the more it looks "wrong"...
Last edited by '02996ttx50; Aug 31, 2015 at 06:57 PM.
For what it's worth, I had the original 60k mile MAF on my car through my whole 3 years of modding. I sold the car with the MAF that I bought it with, and it's still working. Point is, I'm not convinced your MAF is actually bad, but it could be. Forgot you were WAY North. Not sure what shipping would be up that way, from CT.
100% right. although the other one definitely looks like oem packaging ( and same as mine was yellow bosch box with waxy brown paper..?)
does your box there have either the 986 ( is that it on the bosch box? ) or the 124.00 part #? mine ended in "124-00" as in ttboosts pic (iirc) i'm pretty sure it had the oem part # but it matters not.
i have always been told and always believed they are essentially the same part, and work equally well. is this not so?
before i knew any better i got a cpl from a vendor on ebay "foreverunauto" and they were shyte! and the diode was definitely inferior. i went thru 2 in rapid succession, and will never *again*! knowingly buy a refurb or a tawainese knockoff. i traced down the website of the maker of fake bosch knockoffs, and they advertise that have the capacity to supply THOUSANDS of them! oh the joy. thousands of fake 124.00 mafs
but agree with all. fake knockoff mafs run like shyte or they fry the diode the minute you peg the limiter, which hasn't happened tp me since spending the $125 for a new oem bosch ( still, a killer deal i have not seen since! theyre like 200/250+ now everywhere..) i mean fry the diode.. I've pegged it
also.. given I'm ranting ( sorry ). folks ( some ) forget to do the simple tb reset when they swap the maf, and that can have you scratching your head for minute after it won't idle right upon replacing lol. /rantoff sorry..
more i look at that box.. the more it looks "wrong"...
does your box there have either the 986 ( is that it on the bosch box? ) or the 124.00 part #? mine ended in "124-00" as in ttboosts pic (iirc) i'm pretty sure it had the oem part # but it matters not.
i have always been told and always believed they are essentially the same part, and work equally well. is this not so?
before i knew any better i got a cpl from a vendor on ebay "foreverunauto" and they were shyte! and the diode was definitely inferior. i went thru 2 in rapid succession, and will never *again*! knowingly buy a refurb or a tawainese knockoff. i traced down the website of the maker of fake bosch knockoffs, and they advertise that have the capacity to supply THOUSANDS of them! oh the joy. thousands of fake 124.00 mafs

but agree with all. fake knockoff mafs run like shyte or they fry the diode the minute you peg the limiter, which hasn't happened tp me since spending the $125 for a new oem bosch ( still, a killer deal i have not seen since! theyre like 200/250+ now everywhere..) i mean fry the diode.. I've pegged it

also.. given I'm ranting ( sorry ). folks ( some ) forget to do the simple tb reset when they swap the maf, and that can have you scratching your head for minute after it won't idle right upon replacing lol. /rantoff sorry..
more i look at that box.. the more it looks "wrong"...
The MAF itself was in a bubble bag and not a waxy brown paper bag.
Yup, you can test the maf with a DC volt meter:
Pull up the rubber boot covering connections on MAF. You will be testing the pin furthest away from you when standing behind the car. Use the grounding lug of the fuel filter that is near by for ground.
With car off but ignition in position 2 you should get between .9 and 1.1 volts.
Then start the car and get it warmed up and test voltage again. Now you should get 1.2 to 1.5 volts.
You may already know this but figured I'd throw it up for anyone else.
Pull up the rubber boot covering connections on MAF. You will be testing the pin furthest away from you when standing behind the car. Use the grounding lug of the fuel filter that is near by for ground.
With car off but ignition in position 2 you should get between .9 and 1.1 volts.
Then start the car and get it warmed up and test voltage again. Now you should get 1.2 to 1.5 volts.
You may already know this but figured I'd throw it up for anyone else.

Oh, do I have to check this with a volt meter or can I use durametric?
With how quickly the seller agreed to send a new unit and then refund the second unit I'm sure something is up. The box doesn't have the Porsche number (the 124.00 and other number) just the Bosch 280 218 009 number.
The MAF itself was in a bubble bag and not a waxy brown paper bag.
The MAF itself was in a bubble bag and not a waxy brown paper bag.
..and the absence of that 124.00 part# would put me off too. there's so much knockoff stuff out there with these some things are just better being bought at a reputable vendor, but man, those things are not cheap! reminds me of the time i bought some gillete sensor blades off of ebay.. and bled profusely for a week

but i didn't realize that finding a new bosch maf locally for 125 would turn out be such a great deal! ( though it too was on ebay.. i just asked a boatload of questions before i "bought", it having been burned there before! )
but all this from the dummy
that knowingly bought refurbs, as i mentioned before. we all learn at our own pace.. took me TWO knockoffs to figure it out
gl with the replacement or better still.. killer move of ttboost to offer one up gratis. this place is like you say, a very cool place.
Hey Mark, mine had the waxy paper as well.
You can check online to see if your bosh part is genuine by entering the correct numbers. https://www.protect.bosch.com/Default.aspx
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4379838
This was posted by mxracer
"That is the "correct MAF" for a 996 turbo but beware...
It should come in a multi-colored Bosch box WITH a Bosch KeySecure sticker on it, that you can verify here.. https://www.protect.bosch.com/Default.aspx
If it comes in a yellow "Bosch" box and does not have a real KeySecure sticker, 99.9% it's not going to work. There are TONS of knock offs out there, I went thru 2 of them before finding a real one from a local shop."
You can check online to see if your bosh part is genuine by entering the correct numbers. https://www.protect.bosch.com/Default.aspx
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4379838
This was posted by mxracer
"That is the "correct MAF" for a 996 turbo but beware...
It should come in a multi-colored Bosch box WITH a Bosch KeySecure sticker on it, that you can verify here.. https://www.protect.bosch.com/Default.aspx
If it comes in a yellow "Bosch" box and does not have a real KeySecure sticker, 99.9% it's not going to work. There are TONS of knock offs out there, I went thru 2 of them before finding a real one from a local shop."
^ i dont recall any of that holographic stuff)? i got mine from a local guy in CA ( though i bought thru ebay ) that had 2 of em and even asked me if i wanted the 2nd at a discount. i think he was a mechanic and had some extras and they may have pre dated that security stuff. but brown wax paper goes back to the 1950's LOL
either way, i would never bother cleaning a maf. if you're spraying stuff on it, i say its toast. though sure, it might improve temporarily.
either way, i would never bother cleaning a maf. if you're spraying stuff on it, i say its toast. though sure, it might improve temporarily.




