I wouldn't sweat spray, it's the deep puddle that surprises you and sucks solid water that ruins your day. Seems silly but I've had a car hit something like that near me and was happy to not have a low mounted intake. I'll likely end up with intakes off of the turbos myself along with socks. If someone comes up with a way to mount them cleanly up higher I'm all for it but rubbing is a concern of mine.

 

I'm trying to visualize the large space behind the IC (under the intercooler) and my mind is exploding trying to do that. Are you talking w/out the lower ducting???

 

Hey BLKMGK - So I was able to get these in 3" Fender intakes in there. The driver side did NOT rub at all (stock suspension) with a 15mm spacer. The pass. side did slightly rub, so I had to modify it because I didn't wanting the tire tearing off the intake under full suspension compression. As I was installing my filter on turbo intakes WITH the stock upper IC ducting I realized I could have placed a smaller conical filter up in the same spot. I just got lazy and was already in the filter on turbo mode...so I didn't try to make it work. I didn't feel like doing any other fab'ing/cutting/welding on the intake tubes.


Driver side full 3"



Pass side, modified to not rub. I feel like I might have over did the cut out on this pipe, I should have just did a slight crush on the pipe which would have worked just fine.


Just for reference. 3" intakes CAN work.

 

if you visualize that the i/c lays flat its behind the sidewall of the i/c, not underneath. theres a large space back there. unfortunately i don't have any pics of the space

 

I'm thinking something along the original path of the air tubes in reverse. off the turbos up along the transmission maybe 1 ft then the filters on top. plenty of air, ease of cleaning and removal and out of the main path of any water

 

I looked into this and after taking some temp readings found out that it's pretty hot either side of the gearbox. With that said, I run full 997 gt3rs paneling under there.

What I did was a combination of the two. Like you Steve, my filters got pretty dirty pretty fast. Mine were in the fenders next to the intercooler ducting behind the liners. It's not dirt that goes up there, it's brake dust and tire rubber.

I found running covers over the filter really helped with the dirt - it's just doesn't go into the creases of the filter. Second, I now have a set of Naca ducts that are next to the transmission that push air back up into the area. Using brake ducting it's easy to route this up past the suspension.

I've run this over the last 4 months. Filters are 100 times more clean. However the biggest difference was with spool. Getting clean filters and then good air has really helped here.

Like you Steve, water worries me. I'm in Seattle - and every forecast has a chance of rain. I've gone through standing water a couple of time. Keep the filters up high, and then pumping air in with the ducts at speed seemed liked the best of both worlds. Happy to share my work if anyone is interested.

 

I can't say this is the case for everyone, but I was in the same boat as you. I was very nervous putting filters (w/ socks) right off the turbo, but it has not been an issue. I've driven the car in heavy rain, for extended periods, 15 or so times with no issue.

 

Rain isn't the issue, surprise standing water is :-( I'll wait till my car is back from Garth before I sweat this. I think I'm going to need a Y-pipe first...

 

Mobile version of site doesnt seem to show sigs. Here are my pre failure parts:

04 996 Turbo Cab, guards red, blk leather int, blk hardtop (v2), guards red hardtop (v2), blk dip'd accent, Tial A2871+MV-I 2.5, SRM fuel pump, 60# injectors, EVOMS IC, IPD 74mm plenum, By Design headers, Kline 70mm X exhaust (decat), Forge DVs/hoses, JB welded pipes, KW V3, Tarett camber plates, Sachs 2.5, 350mm GT2 (F)/(R) brake w/ AP +1, Hawk HPS pads, 997 SSK/TB/coils/plugs/t-mount, Eibach sways, Torque toes, Markski intake/tune, 15mm spacers (F), 19" Champion RG5, Acer Ti lug, Michelin (F)/Nitto (R), K&N filter, DRC LED rear/3rd/side, LED int, Mina Gallery screen, 3m clearbra

 

ok thats more informative! for the power you are looking for heres a few things that will be needed. 1400cc injectors, fuel rails and an6 or larger lines. bigger turbos,the internal engine bits you already know about. clutch and for the best use of all your putting into the car a proefi setup running e85. sean has all off these parts and since the car is there its best to do as much as you can at one time

 

I agree. We will talk about this stuff but I don't want to break Seans back on this one. We will do the motor properly and the fuel is a must so I will take care of that for Sean. As for clutch and turbos we can decide if he wants to do that now or perhaps later. The good thing is that SRM Sean has everything ready to roll. Just have to make sure the crack pipe doesn't take over LOL

 

since the tial is toast makes sense to get the b/w turbo since the cost can be recouped fairly easily if he decides to upgrade later. and the driveline is out doing it now saves labor cost on the clutch.you already know the clutch won't last maybe a few weeks at 1000 hp unless its upgraded. hurts now but saves later. since he will run the brushless fuel system think of all the cash he saves not having a 5 bar for installed!

 

LOL

Well we have the turbo's ready to go and like new.

However, Sean (OP) What do you say? Are we building a 1000whp motor or car? You can't ask the crack dealer haha

 

cmon sam no sense in building a 1000 hp motor and not be able to use it. may as well build a solid 600 hp motor and watch everyone else go fast!
as long as he is dealing with srm and you he is in good hands and won't be raped for mods or money that isn't truly needed