That had to be the most time consuming plug change I've ever done on a car. Took me 3.5 hours including clean up. But the car runs *great* now.

The car *still* had the stock Beru heat range 5 plugs in it...and it has 17k on it (previous owner failed to change them out I guess). Anyway...I've been getting a CEL and rough acceleration under boost and the new plugs have fixed everything. The car even idles smoother.

Anyway...just wanted to share to those with 01's that are still running heat range 5 plugs...be sure to change them out. It's well worth the effort.

 

wow, did you really need to take the bumper and wheels off to get at the plugs? i think i would rather just pay someone to do that job

 

Yep...had to do it to get to them. As far as paying...I actually enjoy working on my cars. But that was pretty ridiculous for just a plug change.

 

It took me about the same my first time. The second time was much quicker.

 

Nice job! Did you by chance take photos as yo went along? A how-to write up with pics would be awesome.

Another thing I'm really curious about...what and how much (if any) debris did you find in the intercooler ducts?

 

Sorry Doc...I only took the one picture.

I didn't find any debris other than a little dust in the IC ducts.

 

I'll answer for what I found in mine when I changed the pluhs...nothing. I had wondered what I might find in there...even wondering if people had tossed stuff down there. But my intercoolers and ducts were clean...nothing at all in there.

 

I found something when we changed...damn paper towels.

 

Thanks for the write up. I am up for the same drill this week. Fortunately I have a 2-post lift in my warehouse and a guy who is a former mechaic on my payroll - nice to just pay for parts.

Couple of quick questions - What plugs did you use? Also, did you require any other parts such as exhaust gaskets, etc.? This is new territory for me as well and could use some insight before pulling the car apart.

 

3+ hours to change plugs!?

Cut the cheque 'cause I would not be doing that myself! OK, maybe just the first time. I'd be paying for that, thanks.

After changing a couple Mustang trannies myself, I vowed never to do such involved work again!!

 

I just did the same to mine today as well. It also helped since I did change my exhaust which made the plug change somewhat easier. Did not have to take the bumper off. Just the rear wheels and rear fender well. With the cats out of the way it was easy access.

Also got some great tips from Sharkwerks prior to doing the job. Those guys are really the best! Always willing to help out.

Car runs much better now. Also with my newly flashed stage II software does not stutter at high boost anymore.

 

Thanks so much for the kind words! Seriously man your car feels sooooo smooth and nice! Car runs real strong- I like it and I heard you guys after you left....

 

Taken from Renntech.org:

Parts you will need:
6 ea 999 170 195 90 Spark Plugs (Beru 14FR 6LDU)

Tools you will need:
Jack
19 mm socket for wheel bolts, 10 mm, 13 mm sockets, 5 or 6 mm hex socket
5/8" spark plug socket
3/8" ratchet and 12" and 6" extension, u-joint
Medium phillips screwdriver
#25, 27, 40 torx socket drivers
Torque wrench

Spark Plug Removal Prep
1. Jack up car, put stands under the rear jack points. Remove rear wheels.
2. Remove taillight assembly: 2 phillips screws.
3. Remove bumperettes: remove access plug, loosen size 40 torx from below 2 turns, pivots upward (some might use allen heads instead of the torx, so you will want to have a set handy just in case).
4. Remove rear only wheel well liner: several torx and 2 plastic 10mm nuts (easy to strip when reinstalling)
5. Remove rear bumper cover: 4 phillips on top, 2 phillips on bottom, 4 torx on bottom, 2 torx in the wheel well. Its easy to scratch when removed. Slide off with a helper so you don't scratch the paint. Unplug the wires.
6. Remove center rear heat shield: 3 10 mm bolts, 2 screws. Using compressed air, if available, thoroughly blow all the dirt and debris off the intercoolers, engine, wheel well, brakes, etc.
Remove the intercooler with brackets
7. Disconnect the big hoses where they plug into the intercooler. Pull/pry with a screwdriver, the center of the hose retaining wire clips back far enough to release the hoses. Pull/wiggle the hoses out of the intercooler. It may be easier to remove the upper 2 hoses completely. Mark the inner and outer ends of the upper hoses or note where the arrows are to aid reassembly. Inspect the hose O-rings. The manual says to replace the O-rings, but I don't know if that's really necessary.
8. On each side remove 5 13 mm nuts/bolts holding on the intercooler brackets. Remove bottom 2 sheetmetal nuts attaching the bottom of the side heat shields. Pull the heat shield off the studs. Slide the intercooler assembly forward about an inch then remove it.
9. Bend the shields upward. Leave top heatshield attachment nuts on.

YOU CAN NOW SEE THE TOP OF THE HEADS!

Remove the coils
10. Remove the heat shield attached to the head. Unclip the O2 sensor wires from it and let the shield slide down out of the way.
11. Driver side remove the waste gate vac hose and the pressure sensor(?) hose next to it.
12. Remove all the coil retaining allen head bolts.
13. Unclip all 6 coil wires. (I couldn't get the coils back on with the wires attached)
14. Remove the coils, it may be a little difficult to maneuver them out.
15. Using long extensions remove the spark plugs.

Visually inspect the new plugs prior to installation. Gap is about .8 mm (.032"), NOT 1.6 mm as the shop manual states. I wouldn't try to adjust them if the gap looks reasonably close. Mine were about .025 -.032". I had a new damaged plug that had the side electrode bent.
Visually inspect the coils. Pull off the rubber boots and look for any cracks or carbon tracking. Try to keep the rubber boots very clean to avoid carbon tracking. Put a small amount of anti-seize on the inner 1/2 of the spark plug threads. You don't want any grease or fingerprints on the ceramic, rubber boots, or in the spark plug recess in the head.

Spark Plug Installation

Install the plugs
1. Install the plugs. They should easily screw in by hand. Torque to 22 ftlb. (29.8 Nm)
2. Put the coils in place. Attach the coil wires prior to installing the coil bolts. Make sure the wires 'click' into the coils before you pull the little rubber boots down. Space is limited. Install the coil bolts with a SMALL amount of anti-seize. Torque to 7 ftlbs. (9.6 Nm)
3. Install the heat shield to the head with a little anti-seize. Torque to 7 ftlbs. (9.6 Nm) You may need to use a u-joint socket on 1 of the bolts. Clip the O2 sensor wires and vac hoses back on to the heat shields. Reinstall the 2 vac hoses on the driver side. Check for any loose/disconnected wires or vacuum hoses.
4. Bend the side heat shields back down.
Intercooler install
5. Check that the intercooler hose retaining wire clips are fully in position at the bottom of their grooves. Blow out the intercooler inside and out with compressed air. Make sure the intercooler hose inlet and outlet sealing surfaces are clean and smooth.
6. Carefully reposition the intercooler assembly on the car. Be careful not to scratch the paint. Push it rearward and install the nuts/bolts. Torque to 17 ftlb. (23 Nm) Tighten the side heat shield sheet metal nuts. Install the intercooler hoses. The hose ends should audibly click into place.
7. Reinstall the center rear heat shield.
8. With a helper reinstall the bumper cover. Remember to reconnect the wire. Install the screws loosely. Before you tighten it down position the wheel well liner and loosely install it's screws. Push the bumper cover and wheel well liner into position and tighten. (It was difficult to get the wheel well liner into position with the bumper cover fully tightened.) Do not overtighten the plastic nuts and strip the threads.
9. Reinstall the bumperettes. Engage the top groove and pivot them down, retighten the bolt.
10. Reinstall the taillight assembly.
11. Reinstall the rear wheels and torque to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm).

 

Ruiner posted some great info above. About all you'll need to do the job....however, I would recommend you NOT use the Beru plugs. Use the higher quality Bosch FR6LDC instead.

Also...on step #3 where it says to remove the Bumperettes using a sixe 40 Torx....my Bumperettes don't use Torx bolts. Mine use 6mm Allen heads. Just something to be aware of.

 

Divexxtreme,

Where in VA are you? I'm in Alexandria but on my way to Kuwait for a few months. Leaveing tomorrow.

Ruiner,

Nice write up I printed it out for when I need to do this.