While the motorcycle lift sure looks like a great option, especially with that custom cradle... and I do think it's is the combination you want with jack stands because of the lower clearance heights.

With a MaxJax, I can't recommend the hydraulic table enough due to the larger heights. I keep finding uses for it.

- It's some piece of mind as a safety as I get use to being under the car (my MaxJax concrete anchors went in perfectly and I've tested it with my 6k lbs SUV).
- Saves my back to support the wheel as I unmount it from standing height.
- This:

 

Youre great!

 

I had my buddy make me these. They fit perfectly in the jack points. Love the maxjax
I too bought the hydraulic table from HF. Very sturdy at 1000lbs capacity.

 

Those adapters are awesome! Just the ticket for another level of safety.

The newer MaxJax come with round lift adapters with pads (rather than the old square ones). These do work rather well for Porsches. Still wouldn't mind having those adapters!

 

i have something similar from a member on here. those look a bit tall. i have to drive my car onto a 2x10 to allow the piece to slide under the car.

 

It really helps with the clearance as well since the Techart side skirts are a bit lower.

 

Yes I purposely told him to make them taller as I need the extra clearance

 

Oh wow, I too wouldn't mind a set of those - also have the techart skirts!

 

i get that you need the clearance. my point is that you cant swing them under the car when the car is on the ground. they will hit the skirts. you are going to have to drive onto boards to raise the car enough to fit underneath. mine are about half that height and they hit my oem skirts unless i raise the car.

you can of course jack the car up in the back once its placed between the lift. i find i have to adjust the car a few times for the pieces to fit squarely into the mounting holes

 

I got those on Ebay long time ago and you put them in the recess , turn 1/4 of a turn and they stay in place....But you can forgot them LOL!!!! That's why I have a "remove before flight" flag on each of them....

 

Oh I have a set of hockey pucks with eye hooks although I think I did lose one on the road :-( Something on the lift arms themselves would rock!

 

I use a 2x4 to drive onto and they are perfect. The reason the rear is taller was to get the car more level once lifted. Since the engine is in the rear obviously more rear weight bias the taller adapter in the rear makes it more level.
My buddy made them out of 7075 aluminum which is much harder then the 6061 as well.

 

Even though I used this platform for the motorcycle jack, I'm assuming it would be useful for the table as well.

And though I didn't do it, you could bolt this platform to the motorcycle jack for extra security (using the existing holes).

Later, Steve

 

I'm getting ready to drop the motor currently and am putting a few wood blocks in key places.

Looking at your cradle, what are the tall pads in the rear touching on the motor? Looks to me they might be interfacing with the lower cast AL coolant distribution pipe? I have 2x4's just to the side of the main block on the large drain castings.

 

The cylinder heads sit on the two blocks, the engine block sits on large flat part of the board and the transaxle rests on the smaller flat board on the far right side. If you look at the picture below, you will get an idea of how the weight is distributed.

If you build the platform, you will easily see how it fits against key weight bearing points of the drivetrain.