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Got it. Seems like it would work well and be stable. I'm a bit lazy to make it. Seems that most people with a table just drop it right on without perhaps only a shim at the front of the motor (near transmission).
What do you say for those that have used the table?
Got it. Seems like it would work well and be stable. I'm a bit lazy to make it. Seems that most people with a table just drop it right on without perhaps only a shim at the front of the motor (near transmission). What do you say for those that have used the table?
I used a piece of 2x4 to keep it off the center if the motor and the crash brace underneath. 2 straps to the table to stabilize the motor
Got it. Seems like it would work well and be stable. I'm a bit lazy to make it. Seems that most people with a table just drop it right on without perhaps only a shim at the front of the motor (near transmission).
What do you say for those that have used the table?
It's a pretty quick build. I doubt it would take more than 30 minutes and you don't have to worry about a block of wood slipping or needing a strap to hold the motor down. Once it's on the form, it's not going to turn over or slip off.
Thanks guys. All your suggestions were greatly appreciated. I wound up building a smaller version of the wooden cradles. Basically just a "U" if you will, to stabilize the engine side to side. I'll get a picture after I put my motor back. But it's out now!
First time doing this operation, took me about 8 hrs total, including setting up the hydraulic table and peripherals.
I did mod the hydraulic table handle as it usually folds onto the table for storage. I flipped the hinge at the bottom to fold outwards, then installed some PTO pins to easily fold it back for storage.
No real tricks. Though there are some vague steps that are not well documented. I used a combination of the factory manual and this link (mostly Rennfab's posts, TurboTodd took out more stuff than necessary) - https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post3386877 Really good idea to check off items as you do it, as there's plenty to keep track of.
Details:
1) Leave A/C with the body. Though you'll have to disconnect the fuel cooler attached to the A/C. There's a tricky A/C clutch wire that snakes to the side of the motor - https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pump-car.html
2) Take Hydraulic pump out with motor.
3) The fuel return connection is a right angle connector, with 10mm bolt securing it.
And hydraulic table is most definitely the way to go with the MaxJax. Lots of safety and control when dropping the motor which is important. The clearances are pretty tight and you do want the motor to drop straight down.
Thanks! Will probably be doing this sometime in the spring, so your notes will come in handy for everyone. New to working on Porsche's, but hopeful it is as fun to pickup as my BMW has been the last 10 years!
What is the ceiling height in your garage? And the outside width of the max jack?
This might be a great solution for my house.
I also have a MaxJax, and can answer your questions. The lift has a wide range of post spacings that you can use. I believe the range is 115-135 inches outside to outside. I personally spaced mine 126in and it's worked with everything that I've put on it from my 911 to my friend's Wrangler Unlimited. If I was doing it again, I might go another 2 inches wider just to make it easier to open the car doors. I personally have a 10.5 foot garage ceiling, so I can put cars and some SUVs up all the way without interfering with the garage door track. The only vehicle I wasn't able to put all the way up was the Wrangler. If I changed my garage door opener to a side load I would have plenty of space vertically.
The other thing to note is that you can install multiple anchor sets in the garage for different post widths. A single post can be moved to a different set of anchors in less than 5 minutes.
Give them a call and they can answer any other questions.
I personally spaced mine at 130". This will work with just about all unibody cars. Where the width may be too wide is for smaller body on frame trucks, where the lift points are inset of the body, on the frame. Wider placement is definitely preferred for door accessibility and ease of swinging in the arms for short wheel base cars like out 911.
I modded my MaxJax setup a bit. I choose to permanently mount the hydraulic pump on the wall and run the hydraulic line with an extension overhead. Also put baby corner bumpers on the lift columns to prevent door dings. The MaxJax is really an awesome setup.
Also, if you do get it, don't let the interwebs worry you about the anchors. Each of mine went in perfectly. Trick is to use a true SDS impact rotary drill with new 7/8" bit to make sure the holes are round and true.
Side mount garage door opener was mentioned.... I have one and it's awesome! Dead silent, just hums and the door rises. My garage isn't attached to my home but if it was I'd certainly want one as the top mount ones rattle every house I've seen them in. Side mount was the only way I could have an opener for my door, should've done it ages sooner!
