996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

How to get to the FPR?

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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 08:14 PM
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How to get to the FPR?

I'm attempting at locating a potential boost leak, and Markski suggested that the leak I described to him was coming from the fuel pressure regulator. I am, or at least was attempting, to follow the repair manual to get to the FPR but I've run into a snag. Step 8. is the Detach the holder over the air-conditioning compressor - I'm not exactly sure where this is? Can anyone help point this out?

Also, in Step 11 I'm not sure how to remove the air pump with all the stuff around it. See pics.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 08:32 PM
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Did you use his boost leak testers? The vacuum line to my FPR was off also but after hooking up the plugs and trying to pressure the system it was clear were it was coming from, mine had become disconnected at the plenum just left of the throttle body.
 
Old Mar 7, 2016 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by z06801
Did you use his boost leak testers? The vacuum line to my FPR was off also but after hooking up the plugs and trying to pressure the system it was clear were it was coming from, mine had become disconnected at the plenum just left of the throttle body.
Yep, that's how I located the general area of the leak. Pressurized the system and the sound was coming from the area where he FPR is.
 
Old Mar 7, 2016 | 09:01 PM
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If I remember correctly this is what I did. Locate the bolts that secure the ac compressor, take them out and pull the compressor towards you, do the same with the secondary air pump and shift it out of the way. It will be just enough to see the FPR behind the air pump.
 
Old Mar 7, 2016 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeanmarcboilard
If I remember correctly this is what I did. Locate the bolts that secure the ac compressor, take them out and pull the compressor towards you, do the same with the secondary air pump and shift it out of the way. It will be just enough to see the FPR behind the air pump.
Jean - Where exactly are these bolts?
 
Old Mar 7, 2016 | 09:40 PM
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The compressor ones are on top of the compressor. The air pump ones are on the front gold bracket. Your pic is properly labeled.
 
Old Mar 7, 2016 | 09:42 PM
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Actually, I don't think I did anything with the ac compressor but I can't really remember. The air pump needs to shift over a bit though for sure.
 
Old Mar 7, 2016 | 11:29 PM
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Don't bother with the A/C compressor.

The secondary airpump comes out pretty easy. It's all 10mm bolts (heads). 3 holding the air pump and switchover valve to the bracket, and 2 holding the bracket to the intake manifold. Then the allen at the oil fill. You can scoot it all aside.
 
Old Mar 8, 2016 | 07:38 AM
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No AC removal

No AC compressor removal is needed, remove the bolt holding the oil neck (To give extra space), remove the Secondary Air Pump bolts and connector, once you remove those, the FPR is behind. As an option, If you dont want to take the SAP out, remove the bolts and connector and move it away!

Originally Posted by pteck
Don't bother with the A/C compressor.

The secondary airpump comes out pretty easy. It's all 10mm bolts (heads). 3 holding the air pump and switchover valve to the bracket, and 2 holding the bracket to the intake manifold. Then the allen at the oil fill. You can scoot it all aside.
 

Last edited by gclasse; Mar 8, 2016 at 07:41 AM.
Old Mar 9, 2016 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gclasse
No AC compressor removal is needed, remove the bolt holding the oil neck (To give extra space), remove the Secondary Air Pump bolts and connector, once you remove those, the FPR is behind. As an option, If you dont want to take the SAP out, remove the bolts and connector and move it away!

I didn't have to move the compressor, but I did end up removing the bracket that is around the Secondary Air Injection pump. This allowed me to slide the pump to the right to access the FPR. Turns out, the FPR connection was fine and the sound I heard was echoing from the behind the throttlebody. I confirmed this by pressurizing the system and leaving the Y pipe unbolted, by doing this I could put a small bit of force down on the Y pipe and the sound clearly became louder. Took the Y pipe back out, and noticed that the bottom left bolt on the throttlebody was barely finger tight . Took it off, and the seal appeared to be well worn and thin. Ordered a new one, once it comes in I'll snap a comparison picture. In the meanwhile, I'll be cleaning the throttle body!

Thanks for everyone's help.
 
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