12mm 90 ft/lbs

 

I was told tq to 85 fl lb in a very progressive way and no retorque required with the 12s. The ARP studs probably have a lower stretch yield point than the evoms studs thus 85. I wonder if I could heat cycle the suds while installed by heating up the nut and top of the bolt somehow. Not sure if that would be useful.

 

Unfortunately it won't do you any good to heat cycle just the studs. The reason for the re-torque (where applicable) is from the different expansion rates of the dissimilar metals in the engine. More specifically the aluminum case and heads vs the steel of the studs. When it heat cycles as a whole the heads will expand faster than the studs or "seat" so to speak, and that can cause the studs to "loosen" a bit. It's really just that the torque increases dramatically as the heads expand and the studs will seat in the aluminum threads in the case and can loose a few lbs of torque.

 

What if I were able to bake the engine to 200-250*f?

 

I don't know for sure what the case and head temps are at running temp but I'm guessing 250* isn't hot enough. It might help, but the only real way is to run some heat cycles and re-torque if called for. No real short cuts that I'm aware of on this one.

 

There has been a few people using Hot Boxes to heat cycle that I know of. I don't know the temps or the time and that is important

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no need to heat it up. factory torque is 45 ft/lbs. raceware is 60 ft/lbs. at 85 no way they back out enough to pop a gasket.

 

Done with the lower crank case. I think I really did a good job. The crank spins smoothly. I fumbled around with the first two stretch bolt seals but once I got the hang of it I was able to blow through it pretty quickly. I have to resituate it on my cheap stand so it is on the ground for now. Feeling good!

 

Hot boxes have been discussed as has pumping hot coolant through them. 250 for a long enough time period might do it. The retorque requirement sux! Porsche doesn't do that from the factory do they? What's their process?

 

Neither Porsche nor Porsche Motorsport require any form of retorque on any of their street or race engines...

 

The answer to the problem is brute force provided by 12mm studs. Sean really did a great job on these. The holes are all drilled on his CNC and Sean is using Time Sert inserts now. I might have the best P car stud job out there.

 

Ah... the benefits of being single. If I tried to assemble an engine in my kitchen my wife would murder me with any number of knives found close at hand!

Progress looks really good. It's been 20+ years since I assembled an engine, I don't think I would have the guts to do it on the M96.

 

Yes it is nice in the house. . I do regret spraying carb cleaner in the sink though. Took a while for that smell to go away.

I had nothing to lose when I took my motor apart, so that helped me get comfortable with building it myself along with the manual and that video I found was awesome. At first I was just hoping to salvage my heads to sell on ebay. It also helps that I am using all factory parts, aside from the rods. When you have aftermarket parts it can be tough getting them to fit together properly.

 

Public service announcement! Here are my old bearing shells for the intermediate shaft. As you can see they have quite a bit of wear on them. The IMS is last in line in the oil gallery system. This is why it is important to run your engine above 3000 rpm. You need to keep your oil pressure up to keep your parts floating over the bearings or they will wear and cause more IMS noise at idle. The previous owner of my car is from San Jose and likely spent a lot of time in traffic lugging the motor.

 

i need a favor. when you get to the cams i need a few pics of how the pass side cam sensor oil galleries and gaskets are situated on the housing. i have an issue with my high cam not working and need to visualize how it goes together