Need some advice.

I am completing the final steps to drop my motor. I have removed the air conditioning compressor from the motor and have it hanging with hoses attached.

I am now looking at the PS pump. I have disconnect it from the motor and can see how it can remain with the car without disconnecting the two large lines but it is attached to a coolant line (easy) and two small lines routed through the top of motor. It appears these small lines need to be disconnected. Not sure how to remove the lines from the pump (special tool) and am concerned about leaks. I've read remove to pumpfrom the motor and leave it n the bay but it appears to be more work and needs a special tool.

The other option appears to be to disconnect the large lines at brass fittings the top of the engine bay. Looks like this can be done by counter rotating two wrenches. The attached picture that I copied from the engine drop thread shows these lines disconnected and are hanging in the middle of the photo.

It looks like the easiest way to drop the motor is to disconnect these lines as shown in the picture. Is this correct ? Can I simply disconnect with two wrenches ? Do I need to worry about pressure or bleeding the pressure ?

Appreciate advice from those that have done this.

 

They are brass threaded fittings. Just need two wrenches. They look like quick disconnects but the are not. Be careful once disconnected as their are these star-like retaining pieces that hold the fitting together. Don't loose this as they can come loose.

 

Thanks, a little tight in there but simple. Should be able to drop the motor Saturday.

 

I dropped the motor several inches before disconnecting those lines. Easier to get to. Are you doing a slave conversion? If so, when the motor is out remove the extra slave lines and plug at the reservoir.

 

You have to remove something inside the pump too, if you simply cap it the pressure will skyrocket. Better detailed elsewhere but just making sure the lines for the clutch aren't simply removed and the port capped :-O

 

The motor was lowered and sitting on the cross member.

I want to tackle the second gear pop out and install a lsd or tbd. The work/parts are are unreasonably expensive. Not sure on the slave conversion as I have had mixed opinions from reputable tuners for street car.

Nice work on your project.

 

wavetrac is as reasonably price a diff as you will find. as for the gt2 conversion anyone that thinks its to stiff is a sissy. my girlfriend drives my car with full gt2 slave No clutch spring and a triple c/f clutch and no complaints. the p/s pump has a cover on the back. 4 bvolts . remove it and remove the small coupler then reinstall the cover. done

 

Ok, please help me with your experience. I have limited understanding and hands on knowledge with the Turbo clutch set-up.

The GT2 slave conversion results in “standard” type of Clutch System. The clutch pedal connects to a piston in the master cylinder. When the pedal is pressed, the piston in the master cylinder is pushed in forcing hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder through the lines/hoses to the slave cylinder. The fluid pushes the slave cylinder piston toward the open end of the cylinder pushing the push rod that connects to the lever on the shaft that in turn releases the clutch.

The 996 turbo comes with a more complex power-assisted system. The system uses a dual power steering pump with an additional circuit to supply power steering fluid to (and pressurize) the hydraulic accumulator reservoir. The accumulator is attached to another more complex slave cylinder that must have an additional port to introduce assist pressure early in the pistons travel.

The Turbo’s systems provides a very light pedal feel making it better suited for daily driving in areas with a lot of stop and go. However, the pressure that helps also has the effect of making the slave prone to bypassing fluid internally leaking back to the master cylinder. This results poor engagement and feel. Shops promote the view that the slave/accumulator works well for streetcars as long as it is maintained as a regular service item.

Some Tech’s advise the GT2 slave also is prone to bypassing fluid internally leaking back to the master cylinder. Also imply there may be more clutch wear, not sure why, perhaps it happens as the slave failure signs take longer to reveal?. So, the negatives are heaver clutch and you still need to maintain as a regular service item.

I have been leaning to the tap method of the conversion using factory parts. I think I would be happy to trade off a heaver pedal for much improved feel and consistency. It also seems to me the GT2 as a regular service item is a much cheaper (in both time and parts). Eliminating the CHF11 circuit from the clutch loop is appealing because it so nasty when the accumulator works its way loose at the track (ask me how I know).

I only have internet experience on the GT2 conversion. My question is there any other negatives to be aware of ?

 

Do the factory GT2 conversion. It's a bulletproof set up with no downsides. You won't notice the harder pedal after 2 minutes of driving the car even with a heavy 764PP. Totally natural.

 

what john said. if the gt2 slave fails its most likely due to not flushing the entire system of petosin and corrupting the gt2 master cylinder. the slave is the same slave used on the boxster and other porsches since 1999. it rarely if ever fails. the oem setup is the best cheapest way to get rid of the assisted setup if you already have the trans out

 

thanks, ok, I will git er done.

You will probably get some DIY support questions.