Transmission Leak...
#16
If you're not going to do it yourself I would budget around 10-15k. It adds up quick especially if you're gonna pull the motor as you might as well do everything at once.
I would do this:
Pull motor/trans.
1. Sachs 2.5 clutch
2. All new rubber vac lines and replace all coolant hoses and flush entire system
3. Torque Solutions Gt1 coolant fittings welded.
4. Seals on trans and RMS
5. Plugs/Coils
6. New fuel filter
7. Check condition of overflow tank as it's easily accessible
8. New oil pressure switch (cheap enough to change it)
Some other stuff I can't remember right now, I will update this if I can think of them.
Good luck!
I would do this:
Pull motor/trans.
1. Sachs 2.5 clutch
2. All new rubber vac lines and replace all coolant hoses and flush entire system
3. Torque Solutions Gt1 coolant fittings welded.
4. Seals on trans and RMS
5. Plugs/Coils
6. New fuel filter
7. Check condition of overflow tank as it's easily accessible
8. New oil pressure switch (cheap enough to change it)
Some other stuff I can't remember right now, I will update this if I can think of them.
Good luck!
#17
If you're not going to do it yourself I would budget around 10-15k. It adds up quick especially if you're gonna pull the motor as you might as well do everything at once.
I would do this:
Pull motor/trans.
1. Sachs 2.5 clutch
2. All new rubber vac lines and replace all coolant hoses and flush entire system
3. Torque Solutions Gt1 coolant fittings welded.
4. Seals on trans and RMS
5. Plugs/Coils
6. New fuel filter
7. Check condition of overflow tank as it's easily accessible
8. New oil pressure switch (cheap enough to change it)
Some other stuff I can't remember right now, I will update this if I can think of them.
Good luck!
I would do this:
Pull motor/trans.
1. Sachs 2.5 clutch
2. All new rubber vac lines and replace all coolant hoses and flush entire system
3. Torque Solutions Gt1 coolant fittings welded.
4. Seals on trans and RMS
5. Plugs/Coils
6. New fuel filter
7. Check condition of overflow tank as it's easily accessible
8. New oil pressure switch (cheap enough to change it)
Some other stuff I can't remember right now, I will update this if I can think of them.
Good luck!
I dropped mine last year and went for it while it was out.
Other maintenance items would vary depending on mileage but the water pump, tensioner, belt, and motor/trans mounts are all much easier while it's out, O2's
#18
you'll appreciate this option. just sent another member here that was in a similar bind to these guys and they hooked him up.
if you go this route? lemme know how it turns out. email sent and GL!
#19
Just had an engine out in January of this year - new alternator, coils, plugs, intake manifold, belts and other miscellaneous bits. Clutch had good life at that time. This was 6000 miles ago.
The coolant lines were all previously welded (about 5 years / 50k ago).
So, my feeling would be to just do the tranny stuff this go around and only fix what's broke to keep costs down. Perhaps the clutch is low enough now to justify the replacement.
Really appreciate everyones comments.
The coolant lines were all previously welded (about 5 years / 50k ago).
So, my feeling would be to just do the tranny stuff this go around and only fix what's broke to keep costs down. Perhaps the clutch is low enough now to justify the replacement.
Really appreciate everyones comments.
#20
Just had an engine out in January of this year - new alternator, coils, plugs, intake manifold, belts and other miscellaneous bits. Clutch had good life at that time. This was 6000 miles ago.
The coolant lines were all previously welded (about 5 years / 50k ago).
So, my feeling would be to just do the tranny stuff this go around and only fix what's broke to keep costs down. Perhaps the clutch is low enough now to justify the replacement.
Really appreciate everyones comments.
The coolant lines were all previously welded (about 5 years / 50k ago).
So, my feeling would be to just do the tranny stuff this go around and only fix what's broke to keep costs down. Perhaps the clutch is low enough now to justify the replacement.
Really appreciate everyones comments.
But the factory decided to replace the transmission and that was that. I've supplied a pic of the leak.
In case you are not aware, the clutch control shaft needle bearings/dust caps should be replaced whenever the clutch control shaft is disassembled. Also, the tech always replaces the metal o-rings that seal the turbo to the exhaust manifold.
#21
sounds about right. a good ( read: fair ) indie is gonna get that r&r'd for about 3-3.5k. roughly six hours labor to drop and reinstall the g'box and another 1k/1.5k to R&R the seal once the box is opened up. once inside though, one never knows what one will find. best to at the very least, replace bearings and check the synchros for undue wear.
#22
Thanks Macster! Yes, that appears to be the same leak as mine. Its wet in all the same spots.
I can stomach $3.5k to get this done... so if an indie can do it for that, they can do the entire thing. If higher, I'll remove the transmission myself to save a few bucks.
I can stomach $3.5k to get this done... so if an indie can do it for that, they can do the entire thing. If higher, I'll remove the transmission myself to save a few bucks.
#23
sounds about right. a good ( read: fair ) indie is gonna get that r&r'd for about 3-3.5k. roughly six hours labor to drop and reinstall the g'box and another 1k/1.5k to R&R the seal once the box is opened up. once inside though, one never knows what one will find. best to at the very least, replace bearings and check the synchros for undue wear.
A straight just replace the selector shaft seal quote would have been for less I'm sure, but of course in the case of a transmission out and apart job "while you are there" has to play a role.
#25
If that's the case and based on removing g'box on jack stands, it would be worth saving the 1.5K. If the dif was ~$500 I'd opt to have them do it all. IMO.
#26
agree. the difference roughly six ( or so ) hours labor to drop it and re-install it. so btw 600/800? that's what i paid when it was too much hassle to drop it and schlep it over there and worry about my car sitting unattended sans trans somewhere other than my mechanic. besides, the fkn thing's heavy lol
#27
So, decided to crazily take it by the dealer for a quote to repair, really just out of curiosity -- Newport Auto Center in Newport Beach which is the nearest Porsche dealer to me.
The quote to repair was $25,000 to remove tranny, send it out for complete rebuild and reinstall. hahaha...
They said Porsche doesn't make the seals any longer. So, I asked what the rebuild will do if they don't make the seals any longer? No answer...
They did give me a free fluid drain / refill service which was a bonus.
The quote to repair was $25,000 to remove tranny, send it out for complete rebuild and reinstall. hahaha...
They said Porsche doesn't make the seals any longer. So, I asked what the rebuild will do if they don't make the seals any longer? No answer...
They did give me a free fluid drain / refill service which was a bonus.
#29
So, decided to crazily take it by the dealer for a quote to repair, really just out of curiosity -- Newport Auto Center in Newport Beach which is the nearest Porsche dealer to me.
The quote to repair was $25,000 to remove tranny, send it out for complete rebuild and reinstall. hahaha...
They said Porsche doesn't make the seals any longer. So, I asked what the rebuild will do if they don't make the seals any longer? No answer...
They did give me a free fluid drain / refill service which was a bonus.
The quote to repair was $25,000 to remove tranny, send it out for complete rebuild and reinstall. hahaha...
They said Porsche doesn't make the seals any longer. So, I asked what the rebuild will do if they don't make the seals any longer? No answer...
They did give me a free fluid drain / refill service which was a bonus.
#30
ha! proving that dealers are ill informed and/or lie. they dont like to open transmissions even when the master tech can, and in rare instances will.
dealers are anything but innovative and do what "the book" suggests ($$$) which in the case of a faulty g50 they unsurprisingly suggest buying one of their rebuilt crated ones for 25k. all for the need of a 3 dollar seal. priceless.
dealers are anything but innovative and do what "the book" suggests ($$$) which in the case of a faulty g50 they unsurprisingly suggest buying one of their rebuilt crated ones for 25k. all for the need of a 3 dollar seal. priceless.