Albert Motorsport in Germany did my 996 Turbo engine rebuild, a huge loss
i agree on the block but i wouldnt send it back to that builder
For sure, this had stock studs, chinese rods, stock lifters, and nothing. I build better motors in my kitchen.



That's the best thing I have read so far. I feel your pain more than I am willing to describe. I am on what I hope is my last teardown which is number 3

.
I'd be interested to see the tops of the piston if there are any signs of detonation.
I read someone say something along the lines of "I've seen stock rods hold more torque than this". Which is true as I've done it with a 996TT and my brothers 997TT, BUT if the rods are cheaply made you can't compare the two.
Now as far as it coming apart 3000km later, it could have been slowly stretching/bending the rods because of the torque (esp if it came in really early) and finally it hit a breaking point. Though seeing the top of the pistons would help to show if there was any detonation, etc. that could have sped up the explosion.
I split a Carillo rod in 2 pieces at 1350+rwhp, the amount of damage is insane even with the Syvecs turning it off the instant it saw an issue (the error code it showed was preignition, but the tune looked dead on). I went back at the logs and saw no signs of oil pressure loss (my first guess as I sat in the middle of the road with an oil slick under the car). At 7600-8000 RPM the rod decided to split and put some holes in the block and ruin pretty much every internal/external thing it could. I think due to not being an HD version of the rod and the stress it had seen during the last 5.5 years it had already became weak and it was just it's time to break.
I read someone say something along the lines of "I've seen stock rods hold more torque than this". Which is true as I've done it with a 996TT and my brothers 997TT, BUT if the rods are cheaply made you can't compare the two.
Now as far as it coming apart 3000km later, it could have been slowly stretching/bending the rods because of the torque (esp if it came in really early) and finally it hit a breaking point. Though seeing the top of the pistons would help to show if there was any detonation, etc. that could have sped up the explosion.
I split a Carillo rod in 2 pieces at 1350+rwhp, the amount of damage is insane even with the Syvecs turning it off the instant it saw an issue (the error code it showed was preignition, but the tune looked dead on). I went back at the logs and saw no signs of oil pressure loss (my first guess as I sat in the middle of the road with an oil slick under the car). At 7600-8000 RPM the rod decided to split and put some holes in the block and ruin pretty much every internal/external thing it could. I think due to not being an HD version of the rod and the stress it had seen during the last 5.5 years it had already became weak and it was just it's time to break.
I don't know the owner of the shop, I just stumbled across the same thread in a German board and here.
This happened to be a thread where I feld I could add some value (my German's probably better than yours) hence I registered and posted.
Feel free to use Google-Translator with the German thread (the owner of the shop posted a lot of replies there - nothing that could be said from Kai)
https://translate.google.com/transla...3D1&edit-text=
Originally Posted by B1250Cpe
I could be a girl, for all you know.
I don't know the owner of the shop, I just stumbled across the same thread in a German board and here.
This happened to be a thread where I feld I could add some value (my German's probably better than yours) hence I registered and posted.
Feel free to use Google-Translator with the German thread (the owner of the shop posted a lot of replies there - nothing that could be said from Kai)
https://translate.google.com/transla...3D1&edit-text=
I don't know the owner of the shop, I just stumbled across the same thread in a German board and here.
This happened to be a thread where I feld I could add some value (my German's probably better than yours) hence I registered and posted.
Feel free to use Google-Translator with the German thread (the owner of the shop posted a lot of replies there - nothing that could be said from Kai)
https://translate.google.com/transla...3D1&edit-text=
Last edited by Jeanmarcboilard; Feb 7, 2017 at 06:45 PM.
Good eye Sean, I didn't catch that. What is the order of oil flow starting at the low oil pump pickup? I would think that the pickup would go to the filter and oil tank first so there wouldn't be any air that might dry the bearing. Isn't that the point of having a dry sump, so there is no oil starvation, GT3 pump or not?
).I highlighted the parts which would answer your question.
...
This happened to be a thread where I felt I could add some value (my German's probably better than yours) hence I registered and posted.
Feel free to use Google-Translator with the German thread (the owner of the shop posted a lot of replies there - nothing that could be said from Kai)
https://translate.google.com/transla...3D1&edit-text=
This happened to be a thread where I felt I could add some value (my German's probably better than yours) hence I registered and posted.
Feel free to use Google-Translator with the German thread (the owner of the shop posted a lot of replies there - nothing that could be said from Kai)
https://translate.google.com/transla...3D1&edit-text=
Apologies for not registering earlier...
I was probably happy to have registered on rennlist 2 weeks ago, otherwise OK5IMON would've "called me out" there as well in the identical thread that Kai started (link)...
Ich rieche Fische.
Last edited by B1250Cpe; Feb 8, 2017 at 01:41 AM.
at least you have a sense of humor. but what isn't so funny is that anyone capable of deductive reasoning, would easily conclude from reading all of this, that kai has been schtupped.
in any language.
in any language.
Sorry to hear about this failure...
Regarding the snapped rod, can you post a picture of rod bearings and the other top half of the rod? reason I ask is that I snapped a rod on my Evo beacuse the big end of cyl 4 didnt had enough lubrication (drag slicks, min oil level and stock oil pan/pickup...) and the big end seized to the crank and then the rod broke very similar to yours. I had to knock the two half off the crank with a BIG hammer. The rod was blue and the rod bearing was very, very thin...
Just thinking if something similar have happed to you if there have been used wrong clearances on the rod bearing. You have dry sump, so I doubt the culprit is lack of oil pressure..
Does your rod bearing look ok?
Regarding the snapped rod, can you post a picture of rod bearings and the other top half of the rod? reason I ask is that I snapped a rod on my Evo beacuse the big end of cyl 4 didnt had enough lubrication (drag slicks, min oil level and stock oil pan/pickup...) and the big end seized to the crank and then the rod broke very similar to yours. I had to knock the two half off the crank with a BIG hammer. The rod was blue and the rod bearing was very, very thin...
Just thinking if something similar have happed to you if there have been used wrong clearances on the rod bearing. You have dry sump, so I doubt the culprit is lack of oil pressure..
Does your rod bearing look ok?
The heat marks on the cap indicate a spun bearing. This was very likely a loss of lubrication, and although not posted, this was either cylinder 2 or 5 (last 2 rods to receive oil). OP has a video where you can see/hear exactly when the knock started, was after a sweeping bend at high RPM. Was this motor built with a gt2/3 multi pickup oil pump (probably not). Its unfortunate but if this didnt come apart during intial tune and break in, then it likely wasnt a hardware issue especially at the low power level it was tuned at.
All those commenting without any real world Porsche engine building experience should wait for the few with experience to comment.
All those commenting without any real world Porsche engine building experience should wait for the few with experience to comment.
+1
We have not seen the bearings nor the second half of the rod (big end).
I understand why my Evo without drysump had oil starvation during launch, but are the 996TT/997TT with the dry sump lubrication known for oil starvation ? I thought the main purpose of a dry sump lubrication are for keeping oil at the oil pump pickup all the time.
Should all TT cars that are used alot on the track be upgraded to the GT2/GT3 oil pump? just asking as I am trying to learn without learning the hard (expensive) way

Could there have been used wrong rod bearing clearance/out of spec big end? I believe this experienced engine builder had it checked, but we all make mistakes...
Sorry if my english sentences is bad, as english is not my main language
I am new in the Porsche world/community and I am here to learn and try to help
However, the thread on the German board (where Albert posted more stuff and which is now at ~ 250 posts) is not so conclusive (here's a somewhat summary in English).
That is correct - very few people here are not on Kai's side.
However, the thread on the German board (where Albert posted more stuff and which is now at ~ 250 posts) is not so conclusive (here's a somewhat summary in English).
However, the thread on the German board (where Albert posted more stuff and which is now at ~ 250 posts) is not so conclusive (here's a somewhat summary in English).
what is clear ( again ) is that he's been, and may well still be screwed. also appears that any chance at goodwill of any kind emanating from the shop has long since been eliminated.
again, simply following this as best i can? i would remain dubious regarding the quality of the work performed and/or parts used. couple that with the assertion THEY performed the flash/tune?
i dunno man..... still smells of fish AND sucks, either way and my thoughts/comments are not germane. thanks for that link though..
Last edited by '02996ttx50; Feb 8, 2017 at 07:04 AM.





