Installed in october a new clutch kit and flywheel..
This set: http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod12...6TT---996-GT2/
And LUK brand flywheel: http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod60...GT3---997-GT3/

Tok a 30 min test drive after installation and seemed ok.

After 40km driven now the pedal became strange, very low and had to pull 2/3 in to release..
Tried to bleed, just made things worse and today when I went to the garage the pedal was in the bottom..
Canīt find any leaks.

Also got some light chatter after installation, especially in reverse, getting worse when the clutch got low..

Any ideas? I try bleeding with a motive first, waiting for it to arrive now so wonder if anyone got some ideas..

 

Slave going bad

 

Make sure to replace O-rings while you're at it. I had issues with mine.

 

Just do the gt2 conversion and be done with it . Those things keep going bad and are a huge pain

 

I pressure tested with 20 psi now, it holds the pressure and still no leaks..
Can it just be air?

 

^^^^^ What he said....

 

I have a GT2. It's not bulletproof‼️

 

Bad motivation to take the gearbox down, so think I go for stock..

 

You don't have a slave to go bad sooo... what problems have you had?

 

I have a like new slave for sale with a brand new accumulator on it. PM if you have any interest

 

+1
"gt2 has a slave just not an assited slave"

The pressure on the SPEC pressure plate was so high that it damaged the slave, master, o-rings in the lines. The end of the rod on the slave cylinder was being deformed from the pedal pressure needed to engage\dis-engage the clutch. So much pressure that it pushed O-ring out.
If I could go back with the knowledge I have, I would never get the SPEC, go for the Tilton from day one. SPEC is an inferior product. It's super hard to drive because of the pedal pressure, and can't hold the power it promised. This is coming from a guy who is used to drive cars on the street with a sintered iron clutch disk, 12lb aluminum flywheel with around 2400lbft pressure plate. I can also legpress over 1000lbs. Strong legs thanks to genetics. Thanks mom n dad.
People tried to drive my car with the previous setup and their faces would change when they pressed down on the clutch pedal. I would warn them ahead of time but they would not believe me till they tried. It was always something along the lines of, "I'm used to driving cars with race clutch", "it will not be a problem". Followed by "WTF!!". Hahahaha
It was ...
Anywho,,, I don't know what clutch kris16 has and what kind of pressure plate pressure so I mentioned the o-rings which I had problems with.

 

I got a new one from Sachs.. https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/...-999764-001098

 

Is that going to hold??
It's only a single disc. They rate it 660lbft(890Nm). The only thing IMHO that would hold that in a single with reasonable pressure plate stiffness would be a sintered iron disc. They are a little hard to drive for most; super grabby. They also eat up friction surfaces on the flywheel and pressure plate. Good news is that, if you don't mind pulling it of every year or so, depending on your use, and possibly replacing the friction plates on flywheel + press-plate, you can just bead blast the disc, put it right back in. It's good as new.

Has anyone had good luck with these? I'd love to hear them chime in. My guess would be they might work for a short period and then bye bye. Back to the drawing board.

 

I also had a hard time bleeding my new Sachs 2.5 for my 997 TT. Bleeding it using the attached instructions. It wasnt 100% after the bleeding procedure. The pedal sometimes didnt return completely, it was missing some mm. Tried bleeding several times, but was still not returning completely every time.
Not problem driving it like this and after some days it have bled itself and now working 100%

 

I had a buddy watch the fluid level while I was under the car operating a compressed air vacuum. Fully bled in about 60 seconds. i was surprised at the amount of air in the line; but then again I broke it open pulling the trans.