Numeric shifter installed. Now shifting is less smooth
#1
Numeric shifter installed. Now shifting is less smooth
Hi all. I installed a Numeric shifter today in my 996TT in the hopes it would smooth out the usual 1-2 shift '2-step' feeling that the 996TT has (into neutral, stop, into gear). With the OEM shifter, the rest of the shifts were smooth but every now and then I'd miss a gear, especially under heavy acceleration. Reading the forums here, I thought the Numeric would address these issues. After installing it, however, all of the gears 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 have this same 2-step clunky feeling. Is there something else potentially going on? Are there any adjustments that can be made to address this? I've also submitted this question to Numeric. Thanks!
#2
unless there's an actual issue with the cables? it may just be the "rifle bolt like" action of the numeric. i've never had one but driven more than a few times with numeric equipped cars.. and that *may* be all it is you're experiencing.
it could be described as "clunky" ( i suppose ) but never as "imprecise".
it could be described as "clunky" ( i suppose ) but never as "imprecise".
#3
I also had a Numeric. Are your cables adjusted correctly ? I used the stock cable adjustment tool and marked my cables before removing my stocker. This will get you in the area but still may need slight adjustment for your liking. Also, as said above unless you have a cable problem, the clunky feeling your getting is the so called " rifle bolt action ". But I would, in my experience describe it more as a notchy or clicky feeling. This is normal. The stock 996 definitely feels buttery smooth in comparison but the slop was excess. It is this so called "slop" that makes the 996 so much more forgiving and thus creating that butter feel. Just my opinion. I would say your experiencing a more precise shift with the Numeric. My Numeric was clicky but it had very precise shifts. I removed it because I was experiencing a little side play. under further observation I noticed that the center shift barrel and bearing had some play in it. I replaced the barrel and bearings with new ones and still no help. My conclusion was that the space between the aluminum frame housing and barrel/ bearing did not have a tight enough tolerance. Thus creating side "slop". This led me to believe that this was a point of future failer. I confirmed this with a buddy who was tracking with his Numeric, who confirmed that that's where his shifter failed. It got worse over time.
I then decided I would purchase one of each of the 997 variants. 997 stock, 997 shorty and Gt3.
All were a night and day difference from the 996 and Genuine Porsche. I finally settled on the 997 stocker with a Function First kit. This gave me a shorter throw that the 996 with more precise shifts and beefed up bearings. The 997 shorty was just a little to short for my liking. The Gt3 (same as 997 with beefed up bearing cases) is also great shifter and is preferred by most.
I then decided I would purchase one of each of the 997 variants. 997 stock, 997 shorty and Gt3.
All were a night and day difference from the 996 and Genuine Porsche. I finally settled on the 997 stocker with a Function First kit. This gave me a shorter throw that the 996 with more precise shifts and beefed up bearings. The 997 shorty was just a little to short for my liking. The Gt3 (same as 997 with beefed up bearing cases) is also great shifter and is preferred by most.
#4
Another thought !
I don't have my Gt3 shifter anymore. But I do have a new 997 shorty. If a short shift is what you are after, I would be willing to ship it to you for test and comparison purposes if you want to take care a shipping to and from.
And of course agree to take good care of it.
Just a thought..
I don't have my Gt3 shifter anymore. But I do have a new 997 shorty. If a short shift is what you are after, I would be willing to ship it to you for test and comparison purposes if you want to take care a shipping to and from.
And of course agree to take good care of it.
Just a thought..
#5
If that feel you were after was what you described I would have chose the 997 oem ssk. It’s the best feeling oem like shifter available. I’m selling my 997 ssk with billet bushings pm me if you’re interested
#6
I think it just takes a half second for the synchros to match the speed of the gears on that 1-2 shift. The other gears are better. You could jam it in there but it will wear down the little teeth on the synchros thing I think.
Last edited by brnrdtns; 01-28-2019 at 09:16 AM.
#7
Thanks for all the comments, guys. The movement is definitely not smooth and its not due to the action of the shifter, which feels very solid and has no side movement. My first thought is that when depress the clutch and shift out of gear, the new shifter is not moving the cables enough to fully release the gear, thus its relying more on speed synchronization rather than clutch to release. I'm not much of a clutchless shifter so I don't plan to practice on the Porsche trans. I suffer from a lack of knowledge in the trans department so if this is silly sounding, feel free to call me on it. However, if this sounds plausible, can the cables be adjusted to improve the release? Also, does anyone have guidance on adjusting cables or is this a type of voodoo that the average wrencher doesn't want to do himself.
FYI. I didn't mark the cable positions when I switched from the OEM as I thought the Numeric in the center position was a drop in and resulted in exactly the same amount of cable movement as the OEM. This cannot be the case, as at the very least I would not see this 1-2 shift two step process now evident in the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shifts.
I've also received a response from Numeric tech support. I'm working through this idea with them as well.
Really appreciate the assistance!
Blair
FYI. I didn't mark the cable positions when I switched from the OEM as I thought the Numeric in the center position was a drop in and resulted in exactly the same amount of cable movement as the OEM. This cannot be the case, as at the very least I would not see this 1-2 shift two step process now evident in the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shifts.
I've also received a response from Numeric tech support. I'm working through this idea with them as well.
Really appreciate the assistance!
Blair
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#8
Sorry rickw30, I missed this comment. Where did you purchase the alignment tool? I did a quick search of Suncoast and Pelican Parts and came up with nothing for the 996TT. If I can find it, I assume I have to reinstall the stock shifter to set the cables first, then get a new baseline before switching to the numeric. Is there a video/directions on how to use the adjustment tool.
#9
It took me awhile to dial in my Numeric shifter - was a little notchy when out of adjustment - now it's great. I just centered the shifter on my own and plunked the cables in - for as much as the Numeric is - they should come with a plastic alignment tool to help with the initial placement
#10
Good to hear it G-50cab. This sounds similar to what I was told to do by numeric tech support as well. When I was installing it, I just dropped the shifter down on the mounting bolts, connected the cables - rights pop on at the end of the shift lever and left uses the screw on connection, and then pushed the cables down into the slots and attached the springs. I didn't check to see if the shifter was centered but I didn't see a way of adjusting the cables. The numeric guy said "The cables pop out of the rod ends and just line it up in a different groove to move the lever then snap it back into positon." I don't understand where the 'rod ends' and grooves are located so I'll pull it back apart to understand what he is talking about..
#11
sounds like once you properly adjust the cables, you'll enjoy the "rifle bolt" action the numeric provides. GL.
failing that. the 997ssk IS the defacto choice of oem "feel" enthusiasts. but numeric = "better" no doubt.
failing that. the 997ssk IS the defacto choice of oem "feel" enthusiasts. but numeric = "better" no doubt.
#12
So - make sure the transmission is in neutral
Pop off the cable covers
center the shifter where you think neutral should be
hold steady
pop the cable back into the ridged connector with everything relaxed
try the shifter to see how it feels (basically one cable is fore and aft - one is side to side. you can adjust each independently - make sure you can go in reverse - at first mine took a little effort - all good now -
Pop off the cable covers
center the shifter where you think neutral should be
hold steady
pop the cable back into the ridged connector with everything relaxed
try the shifter to see how it feels (basically one cable is fore and aft - one is side to side. you can adjust each independently - make sure you can go in reverse - at first mine took a little effort - all good now -