I know there are a ton of threads about this. I’ve read through a ton of them but wanted to get some more recent feedback. I have a k16 car now. Is it worth trying to buy k24’s since I don’t have the core to exchange or should I go billet k16’s or another turbo. I’m not looking for a ton of power. All of the threads I’ve read seem to reference flywheel power not wheel hp. What kind of wheel hp are you going to see on billet k16’s with injectors and intercoolers on pump 93? Same thing with k24’s what is the peak wheel hp.

 

I think most would like to know how you intend to use the car? Street? Track?

I assume you are on stock rods, common responses would be billet K16's for the street, and K24's for the track. This isn't an end all answer, but probably a more common path. K16's more useable torque down low with quicker spool, but less power up high on the street, and with the K24's more power up top where you will need it on the track, as you will be mostly be between 4-7k.

Marski at 911tuning a good resource here.

 

The car will never see the track. The k16’s make sense seems like there is more useable power. Most of my “spirited” driving is on the highway. Is there that big of advantage to the billet k16’s over just stock with tune and other mods? I may go the route of seeing what I can get out of the stock turbos and then see if I want more power from there. Everyone says the tune really wakes it up.

 

Someone got 500 wheel with the stock turbos a while back. It was better than I thought it would be. He had a ton of bolt ons.

 

I’ve been reading a ton lately there is so much information. The price just adds up quickly when you start adding up clutch, injectors, intercoolers, turbos, any piping or intake system you try to run. I don’t want to do all that for say 550whp. At that point I’d rather spend a little more on bigger turbos and have more power than the billet k16’s. I guess what I’m trying to say is once you’ve done all that the whole “go big or go home” expression comes into play.

The turbo’s are shockingly the cheapest piece of the puzzle.

 

Seems like the magic number on stock engine is around 675-700hp at the crank. Plus you have to be careful with too much torque down low, there have been some bent rods with the A28 turbo's, tuner has to control the torque onset, and keep it under control. A28's seem like a fun street turbo, but the general feeling is do rods with these turbo's. So do you like torque down low, or more power up top? If you want the best of both worlds, talk to Marski, maybe K24 billet would give you the power you may want up high, with a tad less lag than an off the shelf K24.

So you are talking turbo's, intercoolers, injectors, maybe mafless fender intake setup?, new clutch, possibly exhaust (depending on what you have), fueling system adjustments (pump), tuning, and misc other items (spark plugs, coils etc) If pulling motor, pin or weld cooling system, replace check valves, venturi, check all tubing.

Likely new radiators, as they will start to leak soon if they haven't been replaced lol.

I'm sure I'm missing something

 

I will offer my 2 cents. I have used stock K16, K16 hybrids and k24 hybrids on my 996TT. I put about 100,000 miles on K24/18G's on the street and they were perfect. With full supporting mods, there is no appreciable lag and a ton of power everywhere. They are fantastic. IMO, all the concern about k16 spooling quicker for the street is nonsense. The hybrid k24's spool very quickly and provide incredible performance. They make for a very fast car, I trapped 134mph with them vs 127 with k16 hybrids. 134 is a very strong number and you can feel the difference everywhere in driving. They transform the car to another level.

Perfect point about the supporting mods cost. That's what the k24's need to really shine, so if you are going there, IMO, go k24 and you will love it.

 

I suppose you are saying what little difference there is with full supporting mods is negated with the difference up top? I felt a small shift to the right when I moved from K16's + tune to K24/18g's Proto tune. Maybe 4-500 RPM shift. I am running a MAF tune, on 91 octane, which is less than ideal. I am on the stock intake, I assume if I change the intake piping or move to fender intake, I can likely eliminate most of the shift.

I guess it really depends on budget etc. I assume newer K24 billet turbo's have better flow characteristics compared to the relatively old K24/18g wheel.

 

The entire intake tract and intake piping is key to maximizing the k24/18G's. Not to mention larger injectors, additional fuel pump and a custom tune for the resulting added air/fuel . The billet 18g's are only marginally better than the old school 18G's from what I have heard. The original are very capable. I was advised not to bother upgrading the wheels to billet 18's, but if doing it today, then of course you would use the billets.....

 

Thanks for the feedback. The car is going to mostly see 60-130 action but I would love to do some track roll racing or a half mile event and that seems to be where the k24’s shine. Assuming I go y pipe and clean up the intake. I was looking at marski’s piping that uses the flexible hoses or so something along those lines. The stock piping looks very tiny and I could see that holding the car back. What are your thoughts on the srm k24’s. Doesn’t look like they require a core that may by the route I go.

 

I would go with a MAFless tune with the Protomotive Fender Intake setup if I wasn't in California.

Protomotive Fender Intake

Then you can just remove the stock intake piping.

 

I looked at that and that piping is tiny it’s flat which defeats the whole purpose. I’d go this route over that tiny little pipe.
https://www.markskituning.com/produc...iping-mafless/

 

Not accurate, I suggest you get in touch with Todd Knighton at Protomotive, arguably one of the top Porsche engine builders and tuners.

One is designed to retain the MAF, the other is not. One shortens the intake piping, the other does not. Really depends on what you want to do. Fender intake is going to provide a faster spool, but will require a MAFless tune.

 

I've been debating this as well and found a post from Powderhound that makes a good point, which is that the MAF maxes out around 600awhp, which is what K16 hybrids do. So unless you plan on doing a mafless tune, there's really no point going with the K24 hybrids.

I don't really care to do all the intake mods, I'm happy with the stock airbox, y pipe, etc. So my plan is to most likely go with K26 hybrids when I either drop the motor to do my coolant lines or clutch. Or both, lol.

 

Well from my understanding and reading to get the 600 or close to it on the k16’s you have to do all the supporting mods, including the y pipe and intakes on the turbos or something less restrictive than stock. Someone correct me if I’m wrong. But I don’t think you are bolting on k16’s and intercoolers and making 600 wheel. You may need the k24’s in order to get that number if you aren’t wanting to do all the other mods ………which is where I’m at. So if it’s turbos and intercoolers get you 530-550 I don’t think I’ll be happy with that. So I’ll end up doing all the other mods. Not to say that’s wrong but I want to make sure I’m at a solid mid to low 6’s 60-130

A lot of the older threads on here talk about flywheel hp which is meaningless to me. I know dyno’s vary but so does flywheel or crank hp. People saying 600 crank is basically 500-520 wheel in my head