Waste Gates for Dummies
Waste Gates for Dummies
I was looking at EVOMS Waste Gates for a stage 2 turbo (K16). It says stock waste gate is set for .7 bar ( my car boost 1.0 bar). What would I notice different if I had these installed? thanks in advance, Is there any downside to them?
Originally Posted by ritchieswimwear
I was looking at EVOMS Waste Gates for a stage 2 turbo (K16). It says stock waste gate is set for .7 bar ( my car boost 1.0 bar). What would I notice different if I had these installed? thanks in advance, Is there any downside to them?
Anyway it would make you hold a higher boost, lets say that 1 bar or 1.1 instead of tapering down as the revs climb.
Edit: I cant find it on their site, where did you see this?
The stock wastegates are set for .7 or less. The springs simply allow the control of the program to need smaller corrections. It allows the wastegate to stay closed longer and not vary as much on the top end.
I don't see it on there site but, you can order them from Mike at Evo. Mine arrive today. About $395 for the set. It's a great value as compared to changing out the complete turbo.
Make sure you get the exact information from Mike on the install. The short story on it is- once you install the rod and the wastegate lever is it zero compression, you add 4 complete turns to the end nut. Test drive it and you should get about 1.2-1.2 bar...
If you want to see a picture of them, go to http://ww2.vividracing.com/catalog/p...222a0899483bd2
Hope that helps. :-)
Make sure you get the exact information from Mike on the install. The short story on it is- once you install the rod and the wastegate lever is it zero compression, you add 4 complete turns to the end nut. Test drive it and you should get about 1.2-1.2 bar...
If you want to see a picture of them, go to http://ww2.vividracing.com/catalog/p...222a0899483bd2
Hope that helps. :-)
Originally Posted by mitchmarket
I don't see it on there site but, you can order them from Mike at Evo. Mine arrive today. About $395 for the set. It's a great value as compared to changing out the complete turbo.
Make sure you get the exact information from Mike on the install. The short story on it is- once you install the rod and the wastegate lever is it zero compression, you add 4 complete turns to the end nut. Test drive it and you should get about 1.2-1.2 bar...
If you want to see a picture of them, go to http://ww2.vividracing.com/catalog/p...222a0899483bd2
Hope that helps. :-)
Make sure you get the exact information from Mike on the install. The short story on it is- once you install the rod and the wastegate lever is it zero compression, you add 4 complete turns to the end nut. Test drive it and you should get about 1.2-1.2 bar...
If you want to see a picture of them, go to http://ww2.vividracing.com/catalog/p...222a0899483bd2
Hope that helps. :-)
I just got them also. The way I found out was when I asked my motorsports guy (EVO dealer) about upgrading my waste gate springs he told me about the new EVO units. Now instead of breaking the seal and replacing the spring the EVO unit is an entire waste gate unit ment to be a "bolt on" replacement so as not to have to "mess" with the spring in the old waste gate.
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Stephen,
Is it not true that you should not try to boost a k16 over 1bar anyway. I can see 1.0 quicker or keeping the ecu from having to correct but won't you burn up a k16 sustaining over 1 bar or not? Please chime in.
Is it not true that you should not try to boost a k16 over 1bar anyway. I can see 1.0 quicker or keeping the ecu from having to correct but won't you burn up a k16 sustaining over 1 bar or not? Please chime in.
Originally Posted by mitchmarket
The short story on it is- once you install the rod and the wastegate lever is it zero compression, you add 4 complete turns to the end nut. Test drive it and you should get about 1.2-1.2 bar...
The larger spring will allow for better bottom end, less boost spikes and better overall control of boost.
Originally Posted by K24madness
Thats not the correct way to do it. You need to pressurize the accuator and adjust it so the flapper arm just starts to lift between 10-11 PSI. The counting method is not accurate enough.
The larger spring will allow for better bottom end, less boost spikes and better overall control of boost.
The larger spring will allow for better bottom end, less boost spikes and better overall control of boost.
Steve, by my seat of the pants dyno, boost comes in a little earlier and holds more, dont see higher boost though. I originally got them to go with the ECU upgrade as I thought the stock set up was not going to hold up to the increased boost. I could be wrong, but same reason I upgraded the DV's, boost hoses, and FRP. Do we "need" to do it or does it "increase" performance......Steve really I dont know, just did it for in my mind basic upgrade house keeping.
I had the mod done at speed gallery. Max boost on my stock K24 X50 car comes 500 RPM earlier (really!) and the car holds boost better. Boost is also much more consistent.




