RWD Conversion Complete...one word...AWESOME!!!
#61
06-27-2006, 11:44 AM
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Irvine/Las Vegas
Age: 48
Posts: 1,127
Rep Power: 64 
Originally Posted by Mz3bo
Wow,
Thanks for sharing with us. Can you explain more in depth the part that is involving the "sub" or "stub" axel and what must be done ? By the way, when you guys mentionned about that axel, it's the axel that connects the two rear wheels to the tranny right ?
Thanks
Thanks for sharing with us. Can you explain more in depth the part that is involving the "sub" or "stub" axel and what must be done ? By the way, when you guys mentionned about that axel, it's the axel that connects the two rear wheels to the tranny right ?
Thanks
I have experienced very little loss of traction, a little bit when the boost hits hard in 2nd gear. The car definately feels quicker going thru all of the gears and the steering is a lot more responsive making the car feel more nimble.
If you want, I can take pictures of all the parts that were removed to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.
#63
06-27-2006, 11:59 AM
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Irvine/Las Vegas
Age: 48
Posts: 1,127
Rep Power: 64
#64
06-27-2006, 12:01 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: French - Montreal Canada
Posts: 551
Rep Power: 42
Originally Posted by USCTrojanMan29
I wish I took pictures, but I'll try to explain best as I can. Once the plastic cover plates that is underneath the car is removed you have access to drivetrain. The front drive shaft connects up to the tranny. The front drive shaft then goes out to the front differential (which looks like a long pickle. The front differential is connected to the front axels (mental rods that bolt onto the sides of the front diff). The other end of the axel have a joint (CV joint) which connects them to the stub axel (or tension bolt). The stub axels are connected to the wheel hub. In order to do the modification, they will need to separate the stub axels from the CV joint (which connects them to the front axels). It takes all of about 30 minutes or so to do that for both. The stub axels (tension bolts) are placed back into the wheel hub as they are used by the ABS sensors in the wheel hubs.
I have experienced very little loss of traction, a little bit when the boost hits hard in 2nd gear. The car definately feels quicker going thru all of the gears and the steering is a lot more responsive making the car feel more nimble.
If you want, I can take pictures of all the parts that were removed to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.
I have experienced very little loss of traction, a little bit when the boost hits hard in 2nd gear. The car definately feels quicker going thru all of the gears and the steering is a lot more responsive making the car feel more nimble.
If you want, I can take pictures of all the parts that were removed to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.
I understand better now. However, If I remember correctly, when removing the CV join, there should be some thick grease that lubrify the knuckle. How did you manage to save that grease in case you want to reinstall the 4wd in the future ?
Thsnk
Bo
#65
06-27-2006, 12:17 PM
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Irvine/Las Vegas
Age: 48
Posts: 1,127
Rep Power: 64
Originally Posted by Mz3bo
Hi Martin
I understand better now. However, If I remember correctly, when removing the CV join, there should be some thick grease that lubrify the knuckle. How did you manage to save that grease in case you want to reinstall the 4wd in the future ?
Thsnk
Bo
I understand better now. However, If I remember correctly, when removing the CV join, there should be some thick grease that lubrify the knuckle. How did you manage to save that grease in case you want to reinstall the 4wd in the future ?
Thsnk
Bo
#66
06-27-2006, 12:20 PM
How come you guys aren't just removing the rear driveshaft and going FWD? That would be MUCH safer...
The RWD conversion sounds like a sick mod. You should gain back north of 8% parasitic drivetrain loss. I passed on a 996TT because of the AWD, but now?
The RWD conversion sounds like a sick mod. You should gain back north of 8% parasitic drivetrain loss. I passed on a 996TT because of the AWD, but now?
#67
06-27-2006, 12:24 PM
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Irvine/Las Vegas
Age: 48
Posts: 1,127
Rep Power: 64
Originally Posted by Salespunk
How come you guys aren't just removing the rear driveshaft and going FWD? That would be MUCH safer...
The RWD conversion sounds like a sick mod. You should gain back north of 8% parasitic drivetrain loss. I passed on a 996TT because of the AWD, but now?
The RWD conversion sounds like a sick mod. You should gain back north of 8% parasitic drivetrain loss. I passed on a 996TT because of the AWD, but now?
I think this thread should inspire you to pick up a TT...
#68
06-27-2006, 12:54 PM
Originally Posted by Salespunk
How come you guys aren't just removing the rear driveshaft and going FWD? That would be MUCH safer...
The RWD conversion sounds like a sick mod. You should gain back north of 8% parasitic drivetrain loss. I passed on a 996TT because of the AWD, but now?
The RWD conversion sounds like a sick mod. You should gain back north of 8% parasitic drivetrain loss. I passed on a 996TT because of the AWD, but now?
*** safe, all supercar's/sports cars should be RWD, plain and simple. I honestly hated awd the first day i got my turbo, but lived with it because of sick traction and speeds i couldnt imagine of. Well let me tell you, pushing my mental limits the car is still carrying out sick cornering speed and blasting out of a turn in little twisties with back end slightly spinning or kicking out on the exit, the car was built and meant for it!
#69
06-27-2006, 05:07 PM
Pleaseeeeeeeeee
Pleaseeeeee
Someone do a 1/4 time before changing to rwd.. and then afterwards.. please I want to see if there is an improvement or worsening of 1/4 times
thanks
robert
Someone do a 1/4 time before changing to rwd.. and then afterwards.. please I want to see if there is an improvement or worsening of 1/4 times
thanks
robert
#71
06-27-2006, 06:03 PM
Basic Sponsor
Did u take out the differential as well??
__________________
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
#72
06-27-2006, 06:08 PM
Originally Posted by Salespunk
How come you guys aren't just removing the rear driveshaft and going FWD? That would be MUCH safer..
#73
06-27-2006, 06:21 PM
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Irvine/Las Vegas
Age: 48
Posts: 1,127
Rep Power: 64
Originally Posted by tthoang1
Has anyone done the 2WD conversion on a tip car? Just curious. TIA
#74
06-27-2006, 06:23 PM
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Irvine/Las Vegas
Age: 48
Posts: 1,127
Rep Power: 64
Originally Posted by MARKSKI
Did u take out the differential as well??
1- Front Drive Shaft
1- Front Differential
2 - Front Axels w/attached cv joints
I will take pictures of the items that were taken off/out of the car tonight. The heaviest thing by far is the front diff of course.
