I was wondering how you can turn the throttle body shut down off? I am hitting a consistant 1.3 bar then drops to 1.2 bar.....then my car goes into limp mode. I have had my car back from the tranny repair for 3 days, and I have gone into limp mode twice.
Today, I was in 3rd and punched it, and the car hit 1.4 bar..... , and immediately went into limp mode. Odd thing is that usually my car would only boost to .4-.5 in limp mode, but my car is hitting .7-.8 bar, but feels very sluggish...but there is still some boost. Also no CEL's or any other lights....except my spoiler failure light.

 

I'm assuming you have Giac's 1.2 bar program. If so turn down your wastegates. You can do it your self at home wiht a jack. Just make sure you do it even ly to both remember at the bottom of the actuator rod where it goes through the wastegate.

-Suman

 

GIAC doesnt turn off the TB. they use a diode in the ECu but thats only on the GT640 and up kits... so your basically going to have to turn down the WGs. a manual boost controller hooked up parallel to the stock frequency valve is a fix. I wish They didnt have the TB shut down form the get go.
Unfortunately with all these 1 bar garrett springs that everyone is upgrading to... this is the result of poorly adjusted springs. Other tuners like Protomotive do not have the TB shut down form the get go. They write it out via software. But then k16/24 hybrids are not meant to be pushed to 1.3 bars and above.. so no wonder why GIAC wasn't looking to take care of this problem. It also prevents one from blowing up the motor... so Its really a safety measure.
markski

 

Mark and Suman got it...And, you should not be hitting 1.4...this is definately not getting you more hp, but may cause damage down the road.

 

I agree 100% that I should not be hitting 1.3 and above. Not sure why this is happening though. I guess I will try to dial the wastegates back a turn or so.

 

1 turn roughly equals 0.1 bar.

 

The reason some tuners take out the throttle shut down is so that you can left foot brake while still maintaining boost.

Please disregard the above statement I am thinking of something else.

Neil

 

Dont you love these cars
I have a similar problem , boosting 1.2 to 1.3 bars on k-16's, except mine never goes into limp mode. I would love to do the wastegate adjustment. Can someone please give a better description of how to do it?

 

Mark,

Sorry, that is incorrect. The diode only slows the signal to keep the spikes from jumping the map. The TB is not sut down, rather moved to a level that is much higher, IE 1.9 bar etc. Garrett has removed the TB shut down on overboost in a few programs but it is not common practice.

Bong,
Check the wastegate line. I would bet they left one off!

 

Stephen,
Obviously I'm not well versed in the facts because I'm not a tuner... but all I know is when I had GIAC on the stage speed gallery stage 5- it shut my car into limp mode most of the time( boosting past 1.3 bars.). I asked if they could write it via software and they said GIAC did not want to do it due to liability issues? I don't know about that one. So they soldered a diode on the ecu and that got around the problem... just like, I believe, you guys do in ur GT tuning kits. That's all I was trying to say.
What I don't understand is why all these tuners don't bypass this 1.3 bars issue via software. I have seen a hand full of guys running into problems with the upgraded springs... too much boost and limp mode as in this case.

 

The program you had was basically stage 4 which still has the TB shut down for boost. What you were told is incorrect. The only kits to pull it is the GT kits. So your software only had the diode to keep the boost surge from clipping the TB shutdown because you didn't have software designed for that setup.

Again, the diode does not stop the TB shut down. It buffers the voltage signal. The car will still know what is going on from various other sensors.

 

Thanks for all of the replies. If I continue getting the TB shutdown, I am going to take her to the dealer while I get my spoiler actuators looked at.

 

How does this just start happening? Is it because M3's car was completely taken apart? Would it just all of the sudden start hitting 1.2-.4 bar for no reason?

 

Would changing plugs from the Beru FR6 (Dealer did them about 6 months ago) to the Bosch FR6 make a difference. I did change them during the tranny repair. Not sure if the Bosch's are alot hotter then the Beru's.

 

t should just start unless they left something off. The brand of plugs will not cause this issue.