Agree with Mike - don't expect massive changes from flushing brake fluid and getting stainless steel lines (personally I am not convinced that these really do any good especially when you can already activate ABS) UNLESS you
have old brake fluid and some air in there!

Also, my track driving style would have me prefer brakes that are easier to modulate/feel (not on/off) since I do trail brake on some fast in/slow out type corners.

Mike - why do you flush your Castrol SRF that frequently? The whole benefit of SRF for me (and track guys who use it around here) is the whole hassle/labor saved from having to keep flushing (or bleeding) the brakes every track event.

 

yellowturbo - w/ all the other stock brakes stuff I have, on hot days (and most are in central FL) I actually "cook my brakes" so as a precaution I go ahead and do the whole flush in order to not have any contamination of the new fluid - something I found happened on my vintage 911 racer. Tom Kerr is right, I could switch the type of pads - noisy on street (my car is also a daily driver) - I'm just not upgrading the rest of my system yet. I probably will as I just got a 2nd pair of wheels/sticky tires - change the wheels then I just as well change the pads too. I'll then see if the pads make a difference.
One other note - Sebring is 3.5 miles w/ actually 3 good straights that you can build up some good speed and then need to get fairly slow quickly - a good endurance test for a braking system - esp. w/ a heavy tt - still heavy cause I street this car too.

 

Sebring! I am familiar with the track but I have never driven it with a heavy street car (was there for a 3-day Skip Barber race school) so probably why I don't recall the heavy braking. Pads will make a difference. I'd try Pagid yellow or orange. Braking with race pads and R-compound tires is completely different than stock (I actually think that since you're on the brakes less since it stops faster, than it's easier on the brakefluid).

 

My experience - it is heat that kills the fluid - heavy car, longer breaking distance, hot track temps, closed braking system (lack of air flow for cooling surface). The Skip Barber I saw were cars w/ open wheels & light - lots of nice clean air flow to breaking surface. The GT2/3 air scoops I added to tt were a help but not 100% cure - bigger help than SS lines. I think you are right about the other brake pads to make a bigger difference.

On my early '70s 911 (2.7 RS motor - stripped car) - added "cool brakes" and that was all it took even w/ stock pads - great air flow vs temp/weight - no fade issues even after 3 hours of full racing at Sebring.

 

Skip Barber cars are very light and you really didn't even want to brake much since they are momentum cars with lower HP.

One more thing that will help quite a bit is good brake ducting. the air scoops help but if you have a way to run additional ducting (for example Techart front bumpers have ducting that can be directed right at rotors - i'm sure the others have that since I've seen a Sportec one also). There's a similar type of track in Texas - Texas Motor Speedway (of NASCAR fame) when it is setup for the ALMS configuration using the infield. Essentially accelerate hard then brake hard, at least 3 times per lap (can hit 160mph prior to having to brake for a very tight chicane ~50mph or so entry).

Getting back to original post - definitely much more than stainless steel brakelines and pads if you're using brakes on the track...and like I originally indicated, unless your brake fluid had air or was very old, hard to see any noticeable difference on the street either.

 

The biggest improvement is to change to a GT3 accumulator and the the relevant software.