ASk Tom(k24madness) he has the tool....

u hook up to actuator and check the psi....

 

I made a tool to do this but had trouble getting the vacume line off (I was afraid I was going to break the wastegate, I was pulling so hard), so I never did the test. This is what I did:

I used a quick release blow gun and added a piece of pipe to the end, then a "T", then another piece of short pipe to a fitting that mounts 1/4" plastic tubing. This tubing is connected to the wastegate. The T gets a small air guage that reads from 0-20 Lbs. Connect the 1/4" hose to the wastegate, then slowly depress the blow gun handle and watch the pressure build on the gauge, while watching the wastegate. Note at what pressure the wastegate begins to move. Adjust accordingly. Do both sides the same.

Since I never actually got around to this, I am not certain this is correct, however, this is how I was instucted to do it - although with a bicycle pump. The blow gun was my idea.

 

I use a bike pump and T in a vacuum pressure gauge with the large dial for accurcy. The EVO ones need to be set so the flapper starts to lift off of the seat at 12 psi. I hold the gauge close to the flapper so I can watch both at the same time. Like Markski mentioned its how the factory manual says it should be done.

This adjustment is one of the reasons that some cars are stronger than others from the factory. In manufacting there is a term "go-no go". That range tends to be less than ideal. The measurement method will get you in the ball park but will never be precise.

 

I am convinced that the pressure test is more accurate. So what psi do you set the flapper to open for 1.2bar of boost?

 

Yeah, what he said...

 

Here's a picture of the tool I made for adjusting by pressure...