996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Rotor cracks?

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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 09:08 PM
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Unhappy Rotor cracks?

I have about 18K miles on the 02 TT. The front rotor has hairline cracks coming out of the drilled holes on the rotors.

Do you get the same thing? How many miles?

How do I know if I need to replace the rotors?

Thanks.
 
Old Apr 18, 2004 | 09:11 PM
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Normally they will crack when on the track. Not a big deal until the holes connect. This is very common. Mileage is not so much the cause as use. It is heat that causes the cracking. All normal.
 
Old Apr 18, 2004 | 09:44 PM
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Stephen, a question for you ...

The cracks on my front rotors are bad enough for me to replace them. I was thinking of going to a full floating rotor this time and heard that Brembo was making one that will work with the stock calipers. Do you know anything about this, or could point me in the right direction on this? I am also thinking about adding a brake cooling kit. My thinking is that bewteen the "floaters" and the added air flow, my brake temps would be reduced enough to add some life to my brake hardware.

Thanks for any sage advice you can give!
 
Old Apr 18, 2004 | 10:40 PM
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Stephen,

I have a similar question as Bob. What would you recommend as replacement rotors for cars still under warranty?

Thanks.
 
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 07:28 AM
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Brembo is making one, but as far as I know nothing has officially been released.

Anytime you can keep the rotor cooler by forcing air over it the better you are. In regards to replacing them, honestly the factory rotors are up to the task.
 
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 04:32 PM
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I cool mine off with a jet of cold water when I come back in from the track.
 
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 04:37 PM
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Wouldn't the sudden change in temp makes it more likely to crack the rotor?
 
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 04:45 PM
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Sorry sorry...I should have made it more clear that I was joking.

NO ONE DO THIS!!!!

It's very bad for the rotors.

Instead, I just lick them so there's very little saliva needed to cool them. (is that last part more obvious enough?)
 
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 06:25 PM
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go to the sponsor perfect power and click on brakes. Sol sells an incredible floating rotor that is 1" bigger than stock that still uses your existing caliper AND fits inside the 18"wheel. There is a longer pair of bolts with a spacer to move the caliper out. It is lighter than stock because the center is aluminum. It looks great, too. The cross drilled holes are bigger, easier to clean out and have a beveled edge instead of a sharp edge like the stock rotor. If you combine this with the GT-3 air baffle, the temps are improved on the track (pyrometer checked). It is IMHO the best bang for the buck at $237 fro the front pair of air baffles and $780 a piece for the front rotors. Remember though, the TT is still very heavy and very fast. With sticky tires, this recipe is tough on all the braking components. But I am very satisfied with this combo.
 

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Old Apr 19, 2004 | 06:31 PM
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Originally posted by Scott in H-town

Instead, I just lick them so there's very little saliva needed to cool them. (is that last part more obvious enough?) [/B]
Doesn't your wife get jealous?
Scott, I have found that the acidity in urine and the 37*C temp is the perfect cooling solution for the rotors. And I actually lay on the tire when I am doing it, and yes my wife does get jealous.
 
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 08:54 PM
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Originally posted by james
Doesn't your wife get jealous?
Scott, I have found that the acidity in urine and the 37*C temp is the perfect cooling solution for the rotors. And I actually lay on the tire when I am doing it, and yes my wife does get jealous.

LOL.....

The visual I got there was sick and at the same time.
 
Old Apr 20, 2004 | 12:23 AM
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Cryo your original new rotors

www.frozenrotors.com
 
Old Apr 20, 2004 | 10:57 AM
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I have seen the cryo results on a 993 non turbo with new rotors and the small cracks were not only identical but actually happened sooner than with the non cryo rotors. The car was tracked the same and by the same driver. It also had the same kind of pad for track and street. I understand the principle of cryo and it makes sense, just like it does with gun barrells but if the goal is to stop cracks, I just don't think it works like it should. This is not the only first hand account I have witnessed. It is b/c of these observations that I did not cryo my new rotors.
 
Old Apr 20, 2004 | 11:55 AM
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Frozen Rotors = snake oil. Here is a link to another thread
where I discuss the physics and refute the premise of
cryo-treatment of rotors.
Joe

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...&threadid=7475
 
Old Apr 21, 2004 | 04:47 PM
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I agree with Joe. However, here are some things to consider. Brownian motion occurs at the atomic level at all temps except absolute 0, or -273*C or 0*Kelvin. Cryo tx reduces Brownian motion. Cryo does not reach 0*K, therefore, there is still motion to reaneal or realign crystals. Just as the crystals realign under extreme heat and braking, they realign at any temp other than 0*K. The problem is, the movement is so little, how could it really make a difference on the macro level or the properties level of the solid. Unless, the cryo ocurred over thousands of years, then we might really get to the bottom of this. If you have read this far, you are either (1) Joe (2) bored (3) your marriage is in trouble b/c of this site or (4) are in the snake oil market.
 


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