The aluminum hub 14" floating front rotor (stock 18" wheel stock TT calipers) with the GT-3 underneath air scoop yielded pyrometer measurements of greater than 100-150 degrees COOLER temps on front rotors as compared to the rear stock rotors. This is in a 996TT on a technical track hard on the brakes, and using 8 new/broken in padget orange pads. Considering most of the braking is done in the front, and prior to this rotor/air scoop change the temps were much higher in the stock front, I was shocked at the improvements. It was interesting that the giant cast holes never clogged with dust while the cross drilled smaller holes of the stock rear rotors continually clogged. It should also be pointed out that these rotors are reduced unsprung weight. No fade, and I really could tell the new rate limiter is not baked brakes on a fast (and a little heavy) car, but rather the lack of racing slicks. I will report back with racing slicks on a hotter day with the same track and pad combination. I will also follow up with any durability issues if they arise. (This is the rotor from perfectpower board sponsor.)
On a completely different note, my PSM Off switch seemed to have kept the PSM off even after extreme braking and turning. I was always told that the PSM off switch would only work for one event and as soon as the brakes were hit hard again, the system would default to back on. Now, you might say just the PSM OFF dashboard light stayed on but the "system" was still working (as I thought was the case and has been explained to me as such at the Porsche Driving Experience). But I was consistently able to four wheel drift without throttle kill coming out of a long sweeper and into a straight at about 8 MPH faster on the track out point into the straight. If I tried the same thing with PSM Off switch back to default and the dash light off, short throttle kill at the exit of the sweeper every time. Any thoughts? I know some of you were at one time interested in a way to turn off PSM. Is it possible that the "off" switch really does turn and keep PSM off? Either that or I have some kind of "defective" effective switch.

 

rumor has it perfect power may be developing an air scoop for the rear rotors? Sol, is this true and if so, when might they be available for testing/purchase? I'm sold on the idea.

 

My understanding is that the PSM is reactivated during brake activation (when PSM is switched off). When you lift off the brake pedal, PSM is back off. My cars track behavior would go along with this. The only annoyance is that it makes it difficult to trail brake into a slow corner to rotate the car. I have to be completely off the brake to get any "dreaded trailing throttle oversteer" lol.

 

james,
What were the rotor temps in the front prior to the GT3 scoop change?

 

>425 * F ( - - - )

 

James.......sounds like you had fun.
Keeping our 'controls' and 'variables' straight here....did you have fade and the filled holes issue before when using Pag Orange on stock rotors?
I am on my 2nd set of rotors but can't really say I've had these issues on the track.
Also....PSM will not "intervene" (when turned off) unless the car is out of shape when you brake............and then when car is back in control, ie generally pointed in the same direction as the steering wheel and you are off the brakes, PSM goes back into the 'background'.

Rather than me going on about PSM here's a link and a pretty good explanation from Jack Miller........I've thrown it up before, sorry for the repetition if you've seen it.

Jack Miller's artical

 

Gregg, that was an excellent article. Thank you very much. I especially liked the part about how PSM in Off will still monitor all inputs but hold back on outputs until the driver hits the brakes outside the 7% slip angle. as for the question of fade, by tires really are the rate limiter. Slicks on the way. The trouble was cooked calipers ("porsche" turning yellow) and temporary heat warp of the rotors that would go away with cooling. Lastly, the brake wear sensors were melting and the "check brakes" dash light stayed on. So we tied off the sensor wires and the rest of the problems are solved with the new front rotor / scoop. I'll bet you haven't had as much trouble b/c your track isn't as tight after long straights. My track is hard on brakes (CMP in SC)