Driver side Rad-Fan is not blowing as strong as Pass-Fan
Driver side Rad-Fan is not blowing as strong as Pass-Fan
Hi,
The car, a C2 Cab (1999). I notice that the rad-fan (located behind the front bumper cover) on the passenger side is blowing much more air than the driver side fan. altough, the driver side is working, but about half the speed of the passenger side. Is that something normal ? My car tend to overheat when stuck in the traffic for more than 30 minutes... (85-95deg outside temp).
Thanks
Bo
The car, a C2 Cab (1999). I notice that the rad-fan (located behind the front bumper cover) on the passenger side is blowing much more air than the driver side fan. altough, the driver side is working, but about half the speed of the passenger side. Is that something normal ? My car tend to overheat when stuck in the traffic for more than 30 minutes... (85-95deg outside temp).
Thanks
Bo
I would first check the relays in the driver side footwell. Relays 20 and 22 control the high speed fan. Relay number 20 is driver's side and 22 is the other. When you experience your problem, Remove the 2 relays and switch them with each other to determine if the problem follows the relay. If it does, get a new relay. If not, remove both relays and with the ignition switch ON, ground terminal 85 on the relay carrier for each of the fans. When grounded, the the corresponding fan should run at high speed.
Last edited by 1999Porsche911; Jun 10, 2008 at 07:40 AM.
Hi,
I tried it, it does work the same so this means the relay is OK...
HOWEVER, I discovered that fuse #10, row C at footwell is dead. I tried to replace with a new 30amp fuse and as soon as I start the car, the fuse blows up (my car is already hot). What can be wrong ?
Thanks
I tried it, it does work the same so this means the relay is OK...
HOWEVER, I discovered that fuse #10, row C at footwell is dead. I tried to replace with a new 30amp fuse and as soon as I start the car, the fuse blows up (my car is already hot). What can be wrong ?
Thanks
Sounds like you have a short on the driver's side fan which means it should not work at all. If you remove relay 20 and replace the fuse, does the fuse blow again? If it does, have you done any work on the car that might have crimped the fan wiring? I would also see if you can manually rotate the fan to see if the motor is seized.
How about the rear fan not blowing at all. I ran a battery directly to the fan to see if it worked and it does but I never hear it turn on, even after a hard track session.
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Sounds like you have a short on the driver's side fan which means it should not work at all. If you remove relay 20 and replace the fuse, does the fuse blow again? If it does, have you done any work on the car that might have crimped the fan wiring? I would also see if you can manually rotate the fan to see if the motor is seized.
The fan does indeed work real good at low speed, even with a blown C10 fuse... Can it be ballast resistor ?
Could be or a short in relay or carrier wiring.
As far as the engine compartment fan, it should seldom run. It will only turn on if your coolant temp reaches around 215F or your engine compartment temperature reaches around 175F. To test, warm up the engine and then pull the cable connection off the sensor which is located on the right side of the engine, on top, between the first 2 intake pipes. The fan should start immediately on disconnect and stop when you plug it back in.
Alright,
I remove relay #20 and installed a new fuse in C10. Started the car, put AC on and the Fuse is NOT BLOWN... as soon as I put relay 20 back in, blaaam, C10 blows up..
I remove relay #20 and installed a new fuse in C10. Started the car, put AC on and the Fuse is NOT BLOWN... as soon as I put relay 20 back in, blaaam, C10 blows up..
If it does the same (blows fuse) with a second relay, sound like the short is in the wiring to the fan or ballast. I would also check on a cool engine with A/C OFF. Do the same test to see if fuse blows. If it does not blow, ballast is strong suspect.
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