So it was a nice day and I decided to take my car out for a drive (01 996). I was almost home and then the dreaded "check engine" light pops on. I stopped by the local auto parts store on my way home and got the code P1130. I am hoping someone knows what this code is. I have a feeling it maybe an O2 sensor. I have a K&N intake on my car as well as a set of Fabspeed muffler bypass. I did a search and it seems that it is most likely an O2 sensor. Has anyone experienced this before. If so what is the best fix?

Thanks, Jeremy

 

P1130
Porsche fault code 361 - Oxygen sensing adaptation
idle range bank 2

don't know the fix..not sure it is 02 or caused by something else because of idle range...I'll let the experts chime in...

 

I talked with the local porsche dealer and they also said it has to do with my k&n filter. I have only drove about 200 miles since installing my instake. They said it has to do with an over oiled filter, which i find hard to believe because I simply installed the air filter from the box and did add anymore oil to the filter. Has anyone else had this problem with an aftermarket intake? If so, what was the fix?

 

If that is the cause, just clean the MAF.

 

will i still need to reset my CEL or will it reset once it is clean and does not detect oil?

 

After several drive cycles it will reset if the problem was corrected. To reset it immediatly, just disconnect the negative battery cable for a few seconds. Find your radio code first as you will need to reenter it.

 

Yeah I made that mistake the first time i disconnected my battery. I had to wait the one hour with the car in the "on" position until i could correctly re-enter my code. I am gonna try some MAF cleaner on it then reset the CEL and hope that solves the problem once I am off work. Thanks 1999Porsche 911 for your help.

 

I have a 01 996 which had the exact same problem.

I think that I can safely predict that it is NOT an O2 sensor problem, it was the sensor that sent the code. I think I will be safe in also predicting that a P1128 code accompanies the P1130 code.

I would suggest that if you insist on retaining the K&N oiled filter, you should remove the filter and blow it out with compressed air to remove any excess oil. While the filter is off, be sure to clean the inside of the "snorkel" to remove any oil layering on the inside surface, and finally clean the MAF with electronic cleaner. Be sure to concentrate the spray in the "S channel" of the MAF to adequately clean the thermistor probe situated there. Let dry or use a very low volume compressed air to dry it .
I hope this helps, if the problem persists, as mine did, I would suggest replacing the K&N with an AEM dry filter. Also, it might be prudent to be prepared to replace the MAF.

Finally, you might go to K&N website and look under product testing and have a read of their testing. You may draw your own conclusions.
Hope this helps also.
Palma

 

I cleaned the MAF sensor with some CRC MAF sensor cleaner and reset my CEL. So far nothing, although I don't really drive my car this time of year. I am hoping this fixes the issue. If not, back to stock intake for me.

 

[quote=Palma;2223253]I have a 01 996 which had the exact same problem.

I think that I can safely predict that it is NOT an O2 sensor problem, it was the sensor that sent the code. I think I will be safe in also predicting that a P1128 code accompanies the P1130 code.

That's accurate- usually when a customer comes in with only one of the two adaptation codes (p1128/P1130- indicates bank 1 or 2 affected), the second code follows shortly. It's critical to determine if only one bank is affected as it will dictate some of your diagnostic procedure. Usually we will have a customer run the car for a few more days (at least 2 drive cycles) and recheck faults. If both codes are present, typically it is an air leak after the MAF (a diagnostic smoke test will show leakages positively- usually it's an oil seperator, vac line or the 90degree elbow off the left bank [bank1] intake manifold.) Have one in right now needing the elbow fitting. If there are no intake air leakages, it's usually a MAF failure. With or without a K&N, they will fail all by themselves. Pretty rare to need a fuel pump or injectors and the pump usually fails with no-start or engine cut while driving scenario.

If only 1 bank fault code returns and there are no other related fault codes (individual o2 sensor faults as exmple), it's often an air leak at that bank intake manifold gasket to cyl head or exhaust leakage before the front o2 sensor. We've also seen some of the stock exhaust manifolds crack at the plate where the runners are welded in. There will be black contrails of carbon around the leakage and a smoke test of the exhaust will also indicate the location. Even a minor amount of any un-metered air after the maf or before o2 sensors will set trim codes.

 

Its your MAF, i've blown 2 already. I too have the K&N, and although I make sure there is no oil and its dry as can be, its failed twice now.

Looks like i'm going with the dry filter instead now.
The MAF cleaner has not worked for me

 

I got a CEL within the first 5 miles of installing my K&N CAI. I see a lot of write ups on here regarding this popular phenomenon.. its strange how some cars get it and other cars do not... I wonder if the MAF is directional? I noticed when installing my kit that the MAF can fit in one of two ways- I opted to not route my wiring behind the filter tube and installed it without really thinking about it.. but looking back now and reading all the issues.. I'm wondering if there is a coallation between the position of the MAF and CEL's... could the lucky people have the MAF in the correct position while others (myself included) have chosen unwisely? another interesting area of concern is right where the MAF installs.. the bottom plate has a foam pad that I presume makes it airtight.. well if it isnt completely tight and air is entering the MAF area on the intake side than that can also trigger a CEL.. hmmm.. I'll investigate a little further tomorrow morning.. I wonder....

 

It is critical that the MAF be facing the proper direction which is facing the incoming air. The open portion of the "foot" on the MAF should be pointing towards the air filter/incoming air. It will throw a fault immediately if it is backwards. As far as the foam pad is concerned, it true that it must seal properly though it is not as critical as say an air leakage after the maf which is "un-metered" air. That's usually not an issue. CAI's are not usually an issue- we use Evo Motorsports' CAI as it is a true cold air system, where with the deck lid shut, the box is sealed and only cold, external air is being introduced and they are dyno proven 12 hp gain. One thing with MAFs that people need to remeber though- they will fail eventually all by themselves. We often see them between 50 and 70K miles. Sometimes if they are getting close to the end of their functional life, they get tipped over the edge with a CAI installed. Of course re-charging the units must be done properly as well- absolutely dry before oiled and when oil, VERY lightly. The gauze does most of the filtering work with the oil trapping some of the fine particulates.

 

thanks for the reply- I also read (post-installation) that the negative battery terminal should have been disconnected while installing the CAI... which I did not do.. heading out to the garage now. I'll update shortly.
this company claims (and backs up claim with dyno chart) 23 hp gains.
http://www.bursethracing.com/product...productID/4276

 

ok, it threw P0102 MAF low input... as fas as the position, I removed the MAF and the heel of said foot is facing incoming air-there is a little arrow facing heel - so the arrow is facing incoming air- not in direction of airflow.. I think I have it backwards but still not sure since there really isnt enough slack in the harness for me to turn it around. I cleared the code but want to make sure I have this in correctly.. wish I had the dang instructions when I bought this kit