Whoops... A little touchy arn't we haha.

 

Steering angle sensor is located on -actually around- your steering column, to replace it your steering column must be removed. They might go bad, as all electronic devices. You've tried already to do the calibration, but do you know is your steering correctly aligned...wheels straight with steering rack centered and steering wheel straight?

 

The problem is solved. It turns out that the problem was a bad MAF sensor which was caused by using an over oiled K&N air filter.

The actual cause of the problem was hard to identify because I had installed the MAF almost as soon as the troubles began, and the code instantly came back. As a result, I dismissed the MAF as the problem.

When I actually figured everything out, I was watching the Durametric when the ABS light on the dash illuminated, and saw the MAF code turn on at the same time. This caused me to dig deeper into what would cause an instant failure of the MAF.

I cleaned the MAF sensor and guessed that the cause was the filter oil so I just removed the actual filter and drove the car without it. No problem. I then put the filter back on, and almost instantly got a MAF code. I then cleaned the sensor one more time, and installed the GT3 air intake, and no more problems.

I probably could have just washed the K&N and lightly oiled it and everything would have been ok, but I didn't want to risk a future repeat...

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and helpful information.

 

I bought a 2001 996 C2 with K&N filter, sports exhaust but otherwise unmodified. It has the PSM / ABS / Airbag lights all on, plus the fuel gauge is not working and the front trunk release mechanism clicks but will usually will not pop open.
I scanned the codes with my Durametric and get the following:

Bosch Digital Motor Electronics Motronic 7.2
Current Fault Codes
P1571:
Porsche fault code 39 Immobilizer

ABS/PSM 5.3
Module Identification
Part Number 520.996.618.15
Supplier Part Number
Current Fault Codes

Airbag B05
Current Fault Codes
49:
Belt buckle, passenger
3:
Supply voltage


Automatic Air Conditioning H01
Current Fault Codes
31:
Fresh air blower fault


Does this look like an ABS sensor, passenger belt buckle wiring and fuel sender unit are all bad? Anything I can check before I throw a load of parts at it?

 

So what do you think the 4440 code was all about?

 

First time post here. I have a new to me 996 4S cabrio with the PCCB and X51 packages and have just started getting the dreaded PSM/ABS Light. I get a momentary stutter at speed and then within about 2 miles the PSM/ABS light comes on and flashes and then goes solid. I also have intermittent CEL's like P1133 and P1126 that usually show up just after this ABS fault. It just happened again today and there is a new code I have to pull later when I get home. Braking is normal when this happens. I turn the car off, turn back on again and it's gone for awhile.

I searched this forum and found notes about the brake switch so I got a new one and crawled under the dash and replaced it. I hope I never have to do that one again.... head down, feet up in the air over the front seat and it took forever. Saw a post about putting a little grease on the feet on that switch to help twist in place. I'm not sure I've ever cursed as much doing that R&R.

PSM/ABS light lit up again.

More research. Found it could be a bad MAF --- so I tried cleaning it first. After about a 1/2 hour of driving at highway speeds PSM/ABS light on again. Other codes were the 1126 and 1133 again.

So I replaced the MAF a second time now and thought that would take care of the PSM/ABS thing -- well it didn't. Car felt and ran amazing again for about 1 hour... then I felt that little hesitation and sure enough - Light is on again.

I bought the car at 45k and it had some misfire codes and some other DTC mentions in the code. I sorted most of those with the parts I'll list in a second.The PSM/ABS light didn't start appearing until recently.

Here's what's been replaced on the car:

• Coils and plugs (new version of coils)
• Air Filter - Standard Porsche Filter
• Oil Changed to Mobile 1 as I had no idea what was in the car. Blackstone Labs said they saw no issues in the lab test they ran for me.
• Pre-Cat O2 Sensors
• MAF (Bosch) -- twice
• Brake switch
• Cleaned the ABS Wheel sensors. They were pretty mucked up with stuff.
• Verified there is brake fluid at the correct level
• Fister Exhaust Hack

I'm going to pull the new CEL code that just fired up again but my guess is it will be the 1126 and 1133 codes. I'm also going to try the one idea I saw about disconnecting the MAF and see what happens. The one thing I'm not sure about is how to test the wheel sensors and/or test the MAF itself.

I'm at a bit of loss for ideas here. I'm about to pony up $ to take it to my local dealership but I hate admitting defeat. I also have another older sportscar that lacks all of the electronic gadgets the 996 does but I've done most of the work and restoration on her including some strange ignition and electrical issues so I'm not a novice but honestly I'm stumped here.

Checking with a friend to see if they have a Durametric and/or maybe buy one.

HELP!!!!! What am I missing?

Sorry for the long post but wanted to get as much detail as possible.

Thanks in Advance.

David

Update: pulled codes p0430.. cats sounded good when I tapped on them installing the precat o2 sensors. Will see if it comes back.

Also able to get the PSM/ABS light to come on if I pull the plug on the MAF. Immediate light.

Scanner showed the MAF at .78 lb/m. at idle. Some posts I've seen indicate it should be a higher value. Could this new MAF be faulty?

 

There is a switch on the ABS unit that can be replaced. I don't have the part number and I am not sure you can buy them separately, but I bought a replacement ABS unit on ebay and that fixed the issue for me. Incidentally, on another car that I had the same symptoms, I replaced the brake light switch, which did not clear up the problem. Pulled codes for brake light switch again, so I tested the new switch, which was bad. Another new switch also was bad. The 4th switch worked and permanently fixed the problem.

 

Thanks for the reply. I also just cleaned the throttle body as well. It wasn't too bad that appeared to block the movement, but cleaned it up so it's nice and shiny again.

I'm not sure it's the switch as I still feel the slight stutter when accelerating and then within the 2-3 mile range the PSM light engages. I'm going to try disconnecting the MAF and run it and see how the performance is without it connected.

Maybe it's also a brake sensor acting up. I'm still trying to find a local buddy who has a durametic as maybe that will show me more codes than I'm seeing and might direct me better.

I'm also wondering if there is a small vacuum leak somewhere as well. Looking for someone with a smoke unit.

Anyone have other ideas as well? I'm going to pull that brake switch again as well just to check it out.