I'm thinking about picking up a 2002 C4S with 70K miles and using it as a daily. So far, the car has been well maintained, so I'm just curious what might I expect to need to replace as it gets to say, 120K miles+ (outside of normal wear and tear items like brakes, etc).

Will this end up being a good idea?

Thanks!

 

My 2003 C4S had 65k And I'm in the process of installing an LS3 GM engine cause the IMS blew for the original owner. That's another story. I'm also rebuilding and checking out everything else on the car. So far I've found a left front and rt rear wheel bearings with alot of play, replaced. The frt strut upper plate bearings dryed out, easy take apart and regrease on those. The Frt struts still have lots of rebound. Transmission mount and the upper strut mounts where deteriated and cracked. The Guilbo (U-joint substatute) going to the frt drive was also deteriated and I replaced. I haven't taken the rear struts apart yet. Once the engine is replaced and I figure out the ride height I'll probably change springs/struts.

 

I drive my 2002 C4S every day. I just rolled 123K miles. Here are a few things you'll probably see in the next 50K miles:

- Water pump (should be changed every 50 - 60K miles as a preventative measure)
- Ignition coils (these can crack and fail over time)
- Front suspension bushings
- Front strut mount bearings (you'll hear rattling over speed bumps. This one isn't cheap)
- Window regulator(s) (these wear out every so often. The fix isn't too expensive)
- Motor mounts
- Cooling fans and/or fan regulators
- I had to rebuild my front differential, but this is pretty uncommon
- I had to replace my windshield wiper motor, but I believe this is also uncommon
- My C4S is tough on batteries. They only last a couple of years.

I know this sounds like a long list, but overall the C4S has been very reliable as a DD. I highly recommend it.

Good luck!

 

If it has the original clutch still, that most likely won't last until 120k. People report 30k-60k as typical; I had to replace mine at 92k. No receipts for clutch work so I'm under the assumption is was stock.

I'll second what Dennis said about engine mounts and strut mounts. Uneven exhaust tips and heavy vibration at idle are indicators of blown mounts. Easy, easy DIY fix.

 

I'm on my second clutch at 123K miles. I suspect it will need to be changed fairly soon. I will most likely change the IMSB to an aftermarket ceramic bearing while they've got it apart.

 

other items to consider, aire-oil separator

switches go bad, such as starting switch, window switch, driving box 4 stalk with the clockspring.

but the most expensive switch to go are the seat belt contacts.

i use mine as a DD and it is very reliable.

oh, yes. the cats go at about 80,001 miles. they are warrnateed to 80k.

good luck

JB

 

Very good stuff, thank you all for posting!

 

Funny, my 99 Carrera just hit 84k and it started shuddering and idle rough 2 days ago. I'm driving home, so I can see what's wrong, and the voltage started dropping like 10 mins later. Alt just died. Put in the new alt yesterday, but idle is still rough. Drives fine....Motor mounts then I guess? Huh Dennis? My name is Dennis too. Thanks for the info. Other than this recent issue, the car has been running great as a daily driver. Putting in plugs this wk end. NGK Copper, I guess?

 

Maybe motor mounts... maybe coils... any CEL?

Glad to see another Dennis enjoying 996 ownership...

 

No CEL. Ill be looking more into the engine this wk end, but the rumble at idle seems like the engine shaking the car. I bet it is a motor mount. If so, go billet?

 

If I were buying a C4S with 80k miles and wanted it to be mechanically sound. I would:

upgrade IMSB
new rear main seal
new clutch (machine flywheel)
new slave cylinder
AOS
spark plugs
cabin filter
fluids

 

I think I'd go with the OEM RS semi-solid motor mounts. I wouldn't go with solid mounts on a street car.

 

Good point Dennis. The car will probably still shudder. I'll look into the semi-solid ones.

I did purchase my 99 Carrera with about 70K miles, and just now had the first issue. Why fix things that may not be busted? Have a good mechanic look her over and replace what it needs. If I did an IMSB replacement, I would just rebuild the whole engine while it was out. Funny thing is my 2004 996TT has just hit 40K miles and I had to replace about 10 grand worth of things so far. It is a beast though, and I love it!!!!!My daily driver with double the miles is doing fine. I usually just cruz in that. I do not believe pushing it helps, like most people say. The IMSB's are sealed, so high oil pressure would not help that issue. Right?

 

agree with you on this. also replace battery without hesitation every year. big Interstate is good.
the IMS fix is the big one. I did mine just to sleep easier at night. engine does not have to come out. while doing that also do the RMS, and clutch. I didnt do the AOS or change out the coilpacks. Probably would now, just thinking about it. At this point the cost/peace of mind ratio is wacky anyway.

 

careful about stealing away this thread from the original topic. Lauren would not be pleased. But, that said, have you run a Durametric and checked the codes? I'd sure do that before changing out the mounts. good luck.