Just finished up replacing the motor mounts on my '99 C2. I used stock replacements from Pelican Parts and it's like a new car. Shifts are much smoother. Only $180, well worth it and it took about an hour.

 

Awesome, I'm actually thinking on replacing mine too. How bad were your old ones?

 

To be honest I can't really tell from looking at the parts but any rubber parts on a car that's 14 years old and has 50k miles could use some new parts. I didn't want to put in semi solid mounts because I'm not planning on tracking the car any time soon. Just wanted like new feeling.

 

Question... I'm thinking about doing this. Two questions, actually:

1) Do you need a "low profile" floor jack or will a standard floor jack from Harbor Freight work?

2) How significantly different is the process between a C2, and a Turbo? '04 996 TT here.

Thanks!

 

1) I have a Craftsman low profile jack and it worked great. I think a standard height jack would fit but I would never get a jack from Harbor Freight. Their stuff is super low quality and I wouldn't trust it. You're working on a Porsche, don't risk your life or car.

2) From looking in the bay of a Turbo I think the process would be about the same. If you pop the hood and look you will be able to see the mounts and from their you can tell how much stuff you will need to remove. No matter what it is well worth the $200 and hour of time.

 

Where did you place the jack? The Pelican Parts DIY show it under the oil pan, which doesn't sound right to me.

 

I didn't feel right putting it under the oil pan. I saw a picture of a guy that did that and cracked their pan. My jack has the rubber puck which I like and I placed the jack under the bracket that runs up to the engine mount. I did one side at a time. If you lay under the car you will see it. I can take a picture this weekend but if you lay under the car you should be able to see where I'm talking about.

 

Thanks, Acelucas, for your reply. I've got a quote to do these for the turbo at $590. 2 hours of labor at $132/hr, and then $326 for parts. I know at Pelican, I can get the mounts for under $200, and the hour just seems expensive, given the description that you and others have said of the task.

I'm not a motor-head in the least, and I don't have a serious supply of tools (I live in downtown San Francisco, and also a house in Marin, but only with a carport, not a garage). I used to wrench on my old '83 BMW R100 but just simple stuff -- oil, heads, spark-plugs, etc.

Regarding the Harbor Freight jack, I hear you. I know their stuff is pretty cheap but this is a jack that I'd use once or twice, tops. If I were wrenching on it regularly, I'd definitely get a more reputable jack, but the reviews of HF jacks aren't bad at all.

Thanks again!

 

Just because we are working on a Porsche doesn't mean we need to overpay for simple tools. A HF jack works as advertised, used it on plenty of high priced cars and trucks over the years Now, I wouldn't trust HF for something like a torque wrench, but a jack is a jack.

 

Replaced mine with Rennline Solid Mounts ($250) Replacement is super easy!

http://www.georgeco.org/?p=934

 

A jack is not just a jack. There are standards in place set by PALD. Most jacks, including HF jacks use a standard set back in 2005 which test the max load in the center of the saddle. Craftsman jacks are tested to 2009 PALD standards. The load is tested at 4 of the farthest points on the saddle. So if you set your jack perfectly on HF jack should work as advertised. If your vehicle is not dead center it will fail if you get near the max weight of the jack. My personal opinion is that I'd rather spend a little extra and have a better quality.

 

Sooo... how do you know when you need to replace the mounts?

How many miles did you have on your mounts before you replaced them?

Thanks,
Paul

 

Replaced mine yesterday with a set from Pelican. 13 years old and 72,000 miles. A noticeable difference in vibration.

 

Just for reference, here's a shot of the jack point we recommend for the rear - inboard suspension pick-up, rear sub frame. Yes, jacking up a car using the oil pan is not a great idea.

I like long-reach floor jacks - so convenient!