Should I do it? Trade up to a 996TT?
#1
Should I do it? Trade up to a 996TT?
My 02 C2S is getting long in the tooth with 82K on it but still runs and performs flawlessly. I was thinking of having Raby in Ga. do their magic and drive it without worry for a few more years. That being said there is a 01 996TT with 27K on it for about 40k near me. I really like my bucky but I'm hearing the call of the Turbos. Is it that much better experience? I have yet to drive one so I will wait to hear from some you who have. I'm sure the AWD along with the blowers will make a difference but is it worth the extra 15K? Before I'm done with Raby It will be about $5k. So is it worth spending that extra 10K? Should I do it?
#7
I did it, went from a 2002 C2 to to a 2004 TT Cab. You definitely will NOT regret the decision. The TT is just awesome.
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#9
I did the same. My 996 TT (2003) is unbelievable. I have GT30's in K24 housing turbo's ( Alpha 30's) and the car computer knows about that. I must say that I went back to stock exhaust . That was a better all around experience with reasonable volume under 3K revs and a glorious roar above that. But... as someone said... make sure you have the RIGHT one!! They are not cheap to maintain and repair.
#10
I thought it was gone but its not! 2001 996TT with tiptronic. The seller still has it, bone stock, never raced 27K miles with aftermarket wheels. Never seen the track Everything is correct factory stock with all service records. This looks like just what I want. What should I look for when I go to take it for a ride?
#12
I thought it was gone but its not! 2001 996TT with tiptronic. The seller still has it, bone stock, never raced 27K miles with aftermarket wheels. Never seen the track Everything is correct factory stock with all service records. This looks like just what I want. What should I look for when I go to take it for a ride?
Start with a test ride. Visit the car cold and turn off the A/C. Start the engine. Note all warning lights come on -- especially the CEL! -- when you turn the key to on and go off when or right after the engine starts.
Listen to the engine. Get out and walk around the car as the engine idles. Listen for any abnormal sounds. Now the Turbo engine can sound a bit ragged upon a cold start but it should not knock, tick,or make any other scary noises. After a while the rpms should drop to near normal hot idle level and the engine should smooth right out.
Let the engine idle as long as you can. Ideally long enough to do an oil level check.
Have the seller take you on a test ride. Focus on the car. The route should be 15 miles and allow the driver to demo the car in a variety of scenarios.
City stop/go driving. Blvd cruising. Highway driving. Have the driver do a hard acceleration from stop up through at least a couple of gears. The engine should pull good from the outset and then really good when the boost comes on. Watch the boost display. You should see 0.7 bar but if the altitude is high where you are the boost could hit 0.8 bar even higher (but my experience is to hit 0.8 bar requires 3 or 4K feet above sea level while 0.9 bar requires 8K or higher above sea level.)
Back at the starting point continue to let the engine idle and listen again. Take the car out over the same route, drive the car the same way.
Back after this test drive then do a used car check out. Check everything. Lights. A/C windows. Spoiler. Hood latches. Wipers. I mean everything. Do a CP0 110 point check.
If you still like the car and believe you can buy it arrange to have the car PPI'd. This has the car in the air and checked for leaks. Radiators. Water pump. Transmission. RMS. Everywhere there is a hose, tube, fitting, connector, gasket or seal.
Have the DME engine run time and overrev counters read and their meaning gone over with.
Be careful. These are very good cars when they are in good condition but they can be a money pit if they require any real work to bring them into good condition.
If you think you are looking at a stinker, walk away.
Remember: There is always another car.
#13
What do you do with a TT if you don't race it or take it to the track? Unless you live in Germany and the Autobahn is in your backyard, aren't these cars made for the track?
#15
I use mine to commute 30 miles to work and back home again or take it on long road trips when I have the time.
It also gets used for grocery runs but not if I can help it as gas mileage is a bit lousy around town. Also the nose is low and I have to watch that $400 front air dam or I'll bust it up when pulling into and out of parking lots.
My Turbo has never been on a track and never will as long as I own it.