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'99 C2 Track Car Brake Upgrade Options

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Old 06-30-2014, 09:10 PM
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'99 C2 Track Car Brake Upgrade Options

I searched through pages of previous postings but could not find an answer for a 996 C2. Lots of guys out there doing brake upgrades on tracked 997s.

Currently run a '99 C2 dedicated track car. Its a titled, insured, licensed, tagged car but I only drive it to and from and at track events. Got most of the common weight out of it so far but am pushing the limit of the stock brake setup running Pagid RS19 pads front and rear. Already have the larger GT3 brake ducts installed, running R comp tires.

Was looking at the brake components on my '01 996T, is there a reasonable way to install stock 996 Turbo brakes on a 996 C2? I have a source for calipers (new pads and rotors) from a turbo so it would be drastically cheaper than purchasing a StopTech or Brembo brake package. Im aware the front spindles and hubs are different (RWD vs AWD). Could a 996 GT3 brake setup be installed? Perhaps with GT3 spindles if needed? Any suggestions for the rear brakes as well? The stock brakes do surprisingly well for their size but can tell they are running at their limit.

Thanks!
 
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinHiFi
I searched through pages of previous postings but could not find an answer for a 996 C2. Lots of guys out there doing brake upgrades on tracked 997s.

Currently run a '99 C2 dedicated track car. Its a titled, insured, licensed, tagged car but I only drive it to and from and at track events. Got most of the common weight out of it so far but am pushing the limit of the stock brake setup running Pagid RS19 pads front and rear. Already have the larger GT3 brake ducts installed, running R comp tires.

Was looking at the brake components on my '01 996T, is there a reasonable way to install stock 996 Turbo brakes on a 996 C2? I have a source for calipers (new pads and rotors) from a turbo so it would be drastically cheaper than purchasing a StopTech or Brembo brake package. Im aware the front spindles and hubs are different (RWD vs AWD). Could a 996 GT3 brake setup be installed? Perhaps with GT3 spindles if needed? Any suggestions for the rear brakes as well? The stock brakes do surprisingly well for their size but can tell they are running at their limit.

Thanks!
I was in the same situation years ago. Ended up putting GT3 brakes on the car. Don't remember the exact cost but wasn't cheap. I think the uprights and wheel carriers had to be changed. I've been using Stoptech slotted rotors also. Last much longer than the factory drilled rotors. Car stops great. Never had a problem with brake fade. I use Pagid yellow pads also.
 
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:29 PM
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GT3 calipers if you come across a decent set as you will have to change the spindles. If you don't wanna hassle with that then Brembo GT kits but those are north of $3k. Not sure how much better the turbo calipers will perform on the track for the hassle of still having to swap spindles.
 
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Old 07-10-2014, 01:15 PM
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I would look at more cooling first. Fender liner pass through (route part of radiator exhaust to the brakes through the fender liner like in the GT3/GT2 and to a lesser extent the turbo) instead, or even easier, cup brake ducts. The street GT3 brake ducts are not much of an improvement over stock.

I believe the MK1 996 GT3 used the same brakes as a Carrera, despite having more power and weight (from memory, it’s been years. I may be mistaken). Anyway, I ran a similarly set up 996 but not much weight removal for some time (stiffer suspension, some weight removal, tires, pads, brake ducts) and the car was setting good times without any heat issues with the brakes. Brake life was pretty decent also. Might want to look at compressing your braking zones if you’re not a particularly advanced driver as well.
 
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Old 07-01-2016, 09:38 AM
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996 C2 Track Car Rotors Warping?

I have about 5k miles and about 6 track DE's on ATE rotors and Textar pads in about one year.
When brakes get hot the front brakes generate a wobble but not when cool. On my 930 when this happened the drilled rotors show heavy spider cracking on the holes but I don't see this on these rotors.
Question: are rotors warping with the heat or are the pads causing the issue? I am leaning toward the rotors warping with the heat although there is no sign of wear on them.
 
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Old 07-02-2016, 02:18 PM
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Find the 997 C2S front hubs and swap to the 380mm 997 GT3 setup. Most say the 996 GT3 350mm setup isn't a huge improvement.

STOPTech is a great/balanced setup if you can find one for decent price. I think they are 355mm so still work with 18"rims.

Another option is an offset bolt/spacer setup by Vision Motorsports (i think?) that can be researched for the Cayman guys (P9). The offset bolts adapts the hub to the 255mm (250mm? I forget...) of the GT3 setup. Sold only as a part of a complete breakfast, so don't ask to buy the spacer/bolts alone.
 

Last edited by B8_RDC; 07-02-2016 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 07-02-2016, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Amazongreenie
Question: are rotors warping with the heat or are the pads causing the issue? I am leaning toward the rotors warping with the heat although there is no sign of wear on them.
I think the cross drilled rotors often crack from the heat, that's why the GT3 guys run the Cayenne solid rotors. (and cost savings)
 
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Old 07-05-2016, 12:24 PM
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They all crack form the heat. Solid or slotted rotors develop the hairline cracks as just like the cross drilled rotors.
 
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Old 07-10-2016, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Amazongreenie
I have about 5k miles and about 6 track DE's on ATE rotors and Textar pads in about one year. When brakes get hot the front brakes generate a wobble but not when cool. On my 930 when this happened the drilled rotors show heavy spider cracking on the holes but I don't see this on these rotors. Question: are rotors warping with the heat or are the pads causing the issue? I am leaning toward the rotors warping with the heat although there is no sign of wear on them.
Until the crack reached the edge of the rotors it isn't an issue. I had the same problem with vibration and moving to a track pad (hawk dtc70) and properly bedding them solved the problem. I still have the backup set of rotors I bought just in case it didn't.
 
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