How hot do 996 calipers really get on the track? 300', 500'...
How hot do 996 calipers really get on the track? 300', 500'...
Came up in conversation yesterday with a friend and I have no clue execpt to say damn hot, real damn hot...
500+
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damon@tirerack.com
877-522-8473 ext. 4643
574-287-2345 ext. 4643
**Don't forget to add my name to online orders!**
Or use this link:
http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=BH1&url=index.jsp
That's why powdercoating those puppies is critical when tracking the car.
We extracted some data from Mercedes a few years ago when we were doing some caliper work, and our target temp was 800 based on the feedback.
We extracted some data from Mercedes a few years ago when we were doing some caliper work, and our target temp was 800 based on the feedback.
Thread revival. No one answered this question and this is a cheap mod. Maybe worth it for a track car, but is it a good upgrade for a hard driven street car?
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...-mod-pics.html
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You'd be hard pressed to overheat stock brakes on the street. Or even keep them at their best operating temp. I mean that seriously. In fact you probably want LESS air cooling on the street.
Brakes, like the engine have an optimal operating temperature as you drive fast and straight for a long period of time (and by long I mean 15-20-40 seconds like you would on the straight of a track) the brakes cool way down and it takes stop after stop after stop in succession without much time to cool in between to get them really hot.
Your brakes will stop better when they are warmer that cold (to a certain extent) and it takes a track or full bore on a mountain road with lots of hard braking (I mean 70-90% pedal pressure).
I would not advise brake cooling ducts for street driving. Even on twisty roads you aren't on the brakes enough.
Brakes, like the engine have an optimal operating temperature as you drive fast and straight for a long period of time (and by long I mean 15-20-40 seconds like you would on the straight of a track) the brakes cool way down and it takes stop after stop after stop in succession without much time to cool in between to get them really hot.
Your brakes will stop better when they are warmer that cold (to a certain extent) and it takes a track or full bore on a mountain road with lots of hard braking (I mean 70-90% pedal pressure).
I would not advise brake cooling ducts for street driving. Even on twisty roads you aren't on the brakes enough.
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