Hello!

I was hoping I could get a few pointers when buying my first Porsche. I have my eye on a 996. It has high mileage which is the only thing throwing me off. It has 127K. I am a secretary for a Porsche performance shop and I've come across quite a few 996/997's with high mileage that run strong so I'm a little confused on what to do. I'm not looking to buy the biggest baddest 996 out there right away, but I would love to get myself into a stock base 996 for now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

Before buying a Porsche have a PPI, pre purchase inspection done by a mechanic that knows these engines. Be sure it includes removing the oil filter to inspect for debris. This will lose about 1/2 quart of oil & as long as the filter is clean it can be reused. Hopefully someone at your work is qualified to do the PPI. A good PPI costs about $300 but should pay for it self.

 

That's a really good idea. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it more likely to have problems since it is a 3.4 with high mileage? I haven't heard anything good about those engines. I just don't want to buy a car that's going to give me problem after problem.

 

You are right, 3.4's have the thinnest cylinder walls of any M96/97 engine. The PPI should include a compression &/or leakdown test.

 

127K miles on an early 98/99 Porsche it not that high of miles. Porsche considers reasonable annual mileage to be 6K to 9K miles. If the car was say 14 years old at 9K miles per year that is 126K miles.

But I think I know what you mean. These cars a number of them do not get even half the 9K miles, even half the 6K miles use per year.

Best advice I can offer is seek out a car that has been properly serviced and the seller has this documented. Also, you want to see receipts for other things -- like external body plastic trim pieces that age or get damaged -- that indicate this car was loved by its current owner.

Visit the car dead cold. Turn off the A/C. Turn on the key and verify all warning lights come on including the CEL and all go out when the engine cranks and fires up.

Let the engine idle while you get out and walk around the car looking at body panel fits, panel surfaces, and other things to get a feel for the car's exterior condition and appearance.

But at the same time listen to the engine for any scary noises: ticking, clunking, rumbling, whining, faint squealing noises, etc. You may need to go listen to some other cars beforehand to build up an audio memory of what heathy engines sound like.

After the engine has idled a while and the engine is pretty warm have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles and give the driver a chance to demo the car as you will drive it. Keep the cell phone off. Concentrate on the car.

On this test drive leave the A/C off. You can test A/C later. Why it is best to leave the A/C off is with it on the radiator fans run and these tend to keep the engine cooler. You want the engine to get as hot as it can because this generally brings forth any issues, if there are any issues to begin with. Don't worry. The engine will not overheat -- unless there is a real cooling system issue -- as if the coolant gets hot enough the fans will be switched on.

You want a hard acceleration run in there after the engine is fully up to temperature. The engine should pull hard and strong and afterwards settle into a smooth idle.

Back at the starting place you take the car out as a driver and drive the car over the same route, drive the car the same way.

You really have to experience the car as you will use it.

You want to run the engine, drive the car, enough that it will manifest any issues, like overheating, misfires etc. The 30 mile test gives the DME a chance to run through various tests and if it finds a problem turn on the CEL. You want this light to remain off.

After the above then if you still like the car check everything to be sure everything works. Horn. Windows. Door locks. Lights. Seat controls. Trunk and engine compartment release switches. Radio. I mean everything. This means letting the engine run while you turn on the A/C and check this out along with the heater and defroster, etc.

If after all of this you still like the car and believe you can buy it for an agreeable sum of money then arrange to have the car PPI'd. Among other things this gets the car on a lift and lets it be inspected from underneath for any leak sign or sign of other things amiss, like signs of accident repair or recent engine or tranny wrenching.

Brakes, tires, suspension and drivetrain condition gets checked at this.

The DME overrev counters get read and if there are any issues from these the PPI guy should go over this with you.

If you find something serious but are still tempted because you fell in love with the car -- we all have been there -- remember there is always another car.

Oh, one last thing: I like to point out the next best thing to owning a Porsche is shopping for one. This should be an exciting but pleasant experience.

Happy shopping!

 

It's a 2000 and the price is just too good to be true even with the high mileage. It almost makes me think that something is wrong with the car. It's from a dealer so I'll have to follow your advice and check the car out 110%. Anyways, thank you guys so much for your advice! Hopefully the next time I post, I'll be posting pictures of my new 996 lol.

 

Your shop should be able to give you pointers and inspect the car for you.

In terms of high mileage 3.4, I'm a prime example. 125k original 3.4 motor. No problems this far.

Remember even though the price of entry might be cheap, you have to factor in the cost of maintenance. This could be minimized by the fact that you work for a shop.

Any car around 100k will have quite a few worn out parts that would need replacement. Just do your research on all these items and then determine if you'll have the budget or stomach to deal with it.

The other thing is to pay a bit more for a car that's been well maintained and has had all the worn parts already replaced.

IMO, usually cheap Porsches and dealers do not mix unless there is something wrong so I would proceed with caution.

Also I don't know what your definition of a great deal is but I've been following the 996 price market for few years now. At that mileage for a 3.4, anything over $16k isn't a great deal IMO. OTOH, if it's under $14k, you should also proceed with caution and make sure there are no hidden issues.

Good luck!

 

I would definitely lean on the expertise you have there in your shop. Hopefully your co-workers would glad to help you with this.

See if any service records are available. Not having them isn't a deal breaker in my opinion, but they are nice to have.

 

The dealer is asking just under 13K which does seem a bit strange to me. Luckily the shop I work with is very willing to help me. In my opinion, the car it's self looks great. Aside from the slightly milky headlights and the stock ride height I think it would be a great start.

 

I spy 17" black painted wheels, eBay taillights.

Make sure it's clear title with no signs of accident damage or replaced steering wheel.

Take a pic of the engine serial number(underneath driver's side next to the headers) to see if original or not.

If it's coming from a dealer, see if they can at least offer a 6 month warranty on it if they don't have any maintenance records.

 

I hate the wheels, but if everything checks out I was offered a set of sport edition cup wheels for free. The taillights I don't mind at all.

The car has a clean title and the dealership offers a 6 month warranty along with a 5 day money back guarantee if I don't like the car.

 

Painted bumperettes....the car was probably owned by an enthusiast. Get a PPI. 13k is a good price of it checks out..

 

...or repaired from a rear-end accident, which might explain the replaced badge and tail lights as well.

 

Is this a coincidence or are you helping gauge interest in selling this car? My apologies if not the case but we had quite a few people trying this tactic in the past.

Sounds like a good car considering warranty and swapped wheels. Have your guys look it over and get it if everything checks out. Have you ran a car fax or Autocheck on it?

 

I understand what you're saying, but I was actually just seeking advice on buying a 996. Unfortunately, the 996 was sent to auction. I'm not quite sure how this "dealership" (Driver's Mart USA) works, but I had expressed serious interest in the car and was waiting to hear back from the Sales/Finance rep named John. When I finally heard back earlier this morning he informed me that the car was already sent to auction because it didn't meet their selling standards. I guess the best way to look at it is maybe I lucked out because the car could've been nothing but problems. Disappointed, but hey! The search continues. If you guys come across any good deals please let me know..it would be greatly appreciated