maybe your gas cap was loose the first time.... cels don't usually just go away.

 

Hey Guys,

I was planning on checking my hoses for oil residue this weekend.
As luck would have it I just took a look to see how to do it and noticed that the boost hose clamp closest to the SC was busted and just hanging there. I put a new one on and all is good again.

Question is, how do you remove the intake hosing (the molded plastic piping) coming INTO the SC.

It looked to me like there isn't enough room to just remove the clamps and pull it off...

Is there some magic to removing that top plastic pipe ?

I'm guessing Karlooz has the answer, since he posted plenty of pics of his in pieces.

:-)

 

To remove the long inlet pipe, first remove the 90 degree tube going from the aftercooler to the throttlebody. Remove this along with the bypass valve by disconnecting the valve from the inlet tube and remove 90 degree tube and valve as one piece. Loosen the clamp on the outlet tube closets to the aftercooler. The aftercooler should now be loose.

Loosen the clamp on the long inlet tube at the SC along with the 2 clamps at the other end of the tube on the right side. Slide the rubber sleeve to the left along the tube until it no longer extended beyond the tube. You now have separated the inlet tube from the 90 degree filter elbow.

You should now be able to lift the long tube upwards, letting the left side pivot on the SC inlet. As it is pivoting, allow the SC side of the tube to come off the top side of the inlet by twisting the tube towards you as you lift it. By the time the tube is at 45 degrees to the bumper, the tube should be able to be easily removed.

Sounds difficult, and probably more so since it is tough to come up with a clear written description of the method, but it is a simple process and once you know how to do it, it is no more than a 10 minute job to remove and reinstall.

Some people may find it easier to remove the black trim piece that is on top of the bumper. I have never found this necessary, but it does provide a little more clearance.

Make sure all tubes and clamps are reinstalled properly and tightly. Double check the connection to the throttlebody, making sure it is flush and tight or you will pop the tube off at boost.

Jim

 

I talked to my installer yesterday. He said it was my diverter valve. After inspection, he said it was sticking open under boost. All he had was a VW 1.8T DV in stock. He told me that it was night and day with the new DV on there. EVO was supposedly sending a billet one as they suspected that was the problem. He ordered it a week ago and it still hasn't made it yet. Hopefully it shows up soon as I want my car back. It's been two weeks since I dropped it off.

With regards to the oil leakage at the oil feed connection. VF and EVO say this is normal. My installer said it is as tight as he feels comfortable turning it. This is a fitting that is installed and tightened at the factory. Too much and apparently it breaks the fitting. Evo says the leaking is "controlled seapage". When I talked to VF about it, they said it was somewhat normal too. VF said the oil should eventually coke up in the threads and seal it off. I found it odd that it just starting leaking recently though. Unfortunately they said you can't use any thread sealant or teflon tape as it will contanimate the oil. Maybe my fitting just worked it's way slightly loose and it will seal again. We'll see.

 

DOG: Hope the diverter valve fixes everything up for you. As for the oil inlet leaking...no IT IS NOT NORMAL or designed that way. They are right to be carefull how they tighten it as it breaks very, very easily. I had to get a new one once.

The way I install it so it is leak free without having to really crank it down, is to use liquid gasket on the treads. Lighty coat the threads with it, putting a little heavier amount towards the top of the threads (fitting side). This allows the gasket to push upwards and underneath the washer when you install the fitting and forms a leak proof seal. I tighten by hand and then just a snug with the wrench. It WILL NOT contaminate the oil as none of it gets into the oil.

Since you need to remove and clean this periodically, you'll get the hang of it.

 

i've never taken it apart, but i read you mentioned something about a washer. maybe i should have my tech take it apart and make sure the washer is on there.

1999: what DV are you running? it seems the plastic ones that come with the kit are garbage and very succeptible to heat. VW have a 30% failure rate with the same plastic DV, and they put the DV very far away from the turbo unit. i would imagine in our application that the DV sees probably twice the heat the VW would endure.

 

1999: on a different note, what are normal EGT's for a 3.6 at half throttle and WOT? i have not been able to find this info anywhere and the porsche ECU does not measure this variable.

 

Yeah, there should be a washer. It comes with the fitting from Vortech. http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...ategory_Code=M I still use the stock bypass valve that came from EVO (plastic) and have no problems. Holds all boost and operates smoothly. I may replace it someday, but as of yet, there is no need to, even with extreme boost levels.

 

I have no idea what the EGT's are. Don't let yourself get too concerned about them anyway. You will have obvious sysmptoms if they are too high or too low and sometimes even having a gauge will cause you to over analyse the reading. EGT's are directly related to engine temp, so just keep an eye on that. Stock fuel mapping will keep them cool.

 

I'm sure your relieved on finding the problem but, this sounds like the slowest service in town "2 weeks". I can not believe they are still pushing you around, sorry for being blunt here but they are saying while you wait for a part to be delivered that they will not fix the leak because it will seal itself "this should not be up for debate"? Crap put some of that thread stuff porsche1999 said or plumbers tape will work also and do not take home until you have tested yourself and are completely satisfied.

 

the only diff. i can see with regards to the DV failure is the heat in FL. maybe the engine compartment heat combined with the ambient outside temps have conspired to the early demised of my DV

i agree with mother. i am not pleased this is taking 2 weeks. my installer did order the new DV last Friday (not yesterday but the week before) from EVO. still waiting with no answer as to when it will arive. he ordered additional parts from them around the same time and those have already arrived. not sure what the holdup is. i can't really ***** too much because i'm not paying for it. had i had been paying for it, i would have probably just ordered a bailey's DV and had it 2 day'd.

as far as the oil leak, both EVO and VF say it's normal. i am not happy about this either. however, there is nothing more they are recommending to do at this point. VF was adamant with me to not use any thread sealant or teflon tape, as it will void my warranty on the SC and possibly contaminate the oil. i'm not sure what they're reasoning is behind this, but i'm not a mechanic. it's already tough getting this thing serviced as it is, i am not sure i would feel comfortable doing something they specifically told me not to, as it would give them an excuse to no longer support me. guess i'll just have to keep a coulpe extra quarts up front

 

So, are you saying that YOU personally talked to someone at EVO and VF and that person said it is normal for the connection to leak? Or did your mechanic say that they talked to them? The fact is that they should not leak (verify this is you want with Vortech themselves) I can't believe Todd at EVO would ever say something like that. Check that the washer has been installed. As for using the gasket liquid I described above, since it cannot get into the oil, it cannot contaminate the oil. I would not take the car back if it leaked ANY amount of oil from this fitting.

If you afraid to use the gasket liquid, get a flat rubber or fiber washer and out it between the SC and the fitting's brass washer. Leak will stop.

 

that line should not leak if it is fabricate one we did adn it doesn't leak

 

My mechanic told me that Mike at EVO said it leaks.

I personally spoke with the tech at VF and he said it leaks too. He said it was the "nature of the fitting".

 

Well, you were mislead. They do not leak by design or if they are installed properly. Soiunds like they are just trying to get rid of you. Stick to you guns and have them install it leak free, like it was designed for. It should not even sweat any oil.

You can email Vortech and they will respond that they do not leak.