The engine is out of my car at the shop and they are recommending a new IMS bearing, seals and RMS. It looks like the IMS has a small leak and the RMS is dry. Records from the previous owner show a new RMS and IMS retrofit in 2012 less than 10k miles ago. Records also show a new IMS and RMS in 2010 less than 10k miles previous to the 2nd IMS/RMS.

Should I have them do the work or bolt it up and motor on?

 

Wow, this is interesting, is there something else causing the multiple failures?
My understanding the updates were good for 36,000 miles?

 

That will be entirely up to your personal risk tolerance level.

The LN Retrofit at least, has maintenance intervals but it seems like you are below that.

You should clarify if the RMS and/or IMS flange seal is leaking which is different than the IMS itself.

Logically, if you're that risk adverse and you have a single row version, you may want to look into shelling out a bit more and getting the permanent "The Solution" which requires no service intervals and is permanent part which removes the IMS bearing altogether.

Now me OTOH, I have over 125k on original IMS/motor using m1 all it's life and doing just peachy, even with a RMS leak.

 

My guess is they used factory IMS, should use the LNE. RMS, you're there do it and have them use a HD one. If the IMS is showing signs of failure do it, new engine $15-$20k.

 

The replacement IMS was an LN Engineering bearing. According to their website they are good for 50k miles/4 years. My guess is the IMS flange seal is leaking based on the pics below. I am also guessing the previous owner was convinced to replace the IMS by the shop as a "caution" or "while we are in there". I am probably going to leave it alone. The leak has never resulted in drops on my garage floor.

 

Don't waste your money on a maintenance item. The IMS bearing should last the life of the engine. Just like it does in the pre-996 and post 997.1s. Get the permanent fix with the pressurized oil feed. Change the oil every 5000 miles and you'll have another 150,000 miles.

 

I'm becoming more sceptical about the IMS retrofit, they do claim 50k but my car had 77,000 kms on it with the original bearing and it showed no signs of wear... Wondering if it was worth actually getting the LN retrofit in the first place. Seems like the IMS Solution is the way to go. Next clutch ill get that done. That being said as a maintenance item its still more economical to replace the IMS every clutch/50k than the solution (at least for me in Australia it is!)

 

I don't think that I would be skeptical about the IMS retrofit, as the evidence to change it is there, but I do think it's time to start treating the IMS like previous 911 owners do with the engineering flaws of their eras. They're there and they fix or upgrade them.
Like other previous 911 mechanical design flaws of the past, i.e., chain tensioners, valve guide wear, head gasket materials, etc., the IMS bearing is now either a maintenance item to be changed when other engine removal service is needed, or as a permanent fix item.
Check out the write up (in Excellence magazine?) about the cost of retrofitting two mechanical items in the form of head studs and valve guides on the 2.7 engine models. Total estimated cost $14,000!!!! Imagine if the internet were alive back then.
Cheers.

 

Yikes! Not cheap

Just wish the AUS dollar was stronger then I'd buy the solution rather than the retrofit. Whilst I'm confident in the LN bearing there have been a few reported failures on here. Is this thread one of them?

 

If the IMSB was replaced recently and shows no signs of trouble you just have a leaking IMS flange/bolts.

The flange and bolts can be replaced easy enough. I had this done to my 2002 Boxster back in 2002 along with the RMS replaced -- under warranty -- and the RMS and IMS seals and bolts have remained oil tight ever since.

You can have the RMS replaced, too if it shows any signs of leaking.

I shouldn't have to say this but just so you know the IMS end flange and bolts have been upgraded. Even back in 2002 my Boxster got the upgraded hardware with a triple-rib seal on the flange (vs a measly o-ring) and micro-encapsulated bolts to seal the bolts as these screw into the oil reservoir.

The new RMS should not be pushed in to where it resides where the old one was as the seal can then be in a small groove worn by the previous seal and the new seal can leak.

 

If it's out of the car maybe just replace the LN or go the IMS solution?

I've come to terms with the IMS im thankful I've done it!

 

We have a great tech article here, which provides a lot of great information in regards to the IMS and its replacement.