Another: 996 Shifter Alignment / SSK Install Quick Note
Another: 996 Shifter Alignment / SSK Install Quick Note
I have been having issues with my 996 shifting into 2nd. I wanted to do the SSK (B&M), but after reading it seemed like adjusting the shifter would be the best first step.
I've seen some mechanics say 1 in 10 or less needed adjustment. The tool was sub-$8 and I figured it was cheap insurance (Note- no guesswork with the alignment tool, but it won't fit the B&M/Porsche SSK shifter).
Well, mine was way off... I aligned it and took it for a drive and it seemed like the 2nd gear issue was corrected (pops out of 2nd or had a hard time going in).
So, my .02 is if you are having shifting issues- try this. If you are going to do the SSK anyhow, this is a 2 minute step before dismantling the shifter.
Technically you can check the alignment by simply pulling up the shifter boot.
Put tool on which locks the lever into proper neutral. This caused slack in my cables. I popped them off with the lever locked in place, and reset them into the cable keepers. After my test drive I then marked those locations.
Tomorrow I will do the SSK install, but very happy I did this first.
I've seen some mechanics say 1 in 10 or less needed adjustment. The tool was sub-$8 and I figured it was cheap insurance (Note- no guesswork with the alignment tool, but it won't fit the B&M/Porsche SSK shifter).
Well, mine was way off... I aligned it and took it for a drive and it seemed like the 2nd gear issue was corrected (pops out of 2nd or had a hard time going in).
So, my .02 is if you are having shifting issues- try this. If you are going to do the SSK anyhow, this is a 2 minute step before dismantling the shifter.
Technically you can check the alignment by simply pulling up the shifter boot.
Put tool on which locks the lever into proper neutral. This caused slack in my cables. I popped them off with the lever locked in place, and reset them into the cable keepers. After my test drive I then marked those locations.
Tomorrow I will do the SSK install, but very happy I did this first.
I was one of those that advocated trying to adjust cables first. You may need to tweak it again if you live in a state that gets cold.
I found the stock alignment tool will get you 85-90% there but there is room on the table to tweak it further with just a couple thread difference. This is sometimes needed to keep the shifting feel consistent between cold and warm temps if your adjustment is just on the edge.
I found the stock alignment tool will get you 85-90% there but there is room on the table to tweak it further with just a couple thread difference. This is sometimes needed to keep the shifting feel consistent between cold and warm temps if your adjustment is just on the edge.
The B&M is MUCH shorter (i.e. it's very noticeable coming from the 997 shifter). I think the 997 is supposed to be 15% shorter than the stock 996 (also much sturdier feeling) The B&M 35% shorter...I've got my 997 available, if interested PM me.
Hey guys, I appreciate the 997 thoughts. I had already purchased the B&M 3 months ago and just got around to installing it. I drove it today without the center console and ended up needing to further adjust the cable position for 2nd gear on the fly which was good. It is stiff, notchy and unpleasant without a shift ****. It is accurate and way less sloppy than the 996. I also replaced the cable ends as the ball end was shot.
So, yeah, without trying it, the 997 could be all that most people want. This car is a trackday/weekend/coffee shop project so I'm ok with the way the B&M feels... but it is WAY different than clapped out 16 year old stock shifter. The shorter throws are welcome... I'll see how it all ends up once reassembled (which is a major PIA with the Recaro SPG's in it...).
Any tips for getting the center console back on? The E-brake lever is sort of in the way and no wiggle room with the thigh bolsters on the seats.
So, yeah, without trying it, the 997 could be all that most people want. This car is a trackday/weekend/coffee shop project so I'm ok with the way the B&M feels... but it is WAY different than clapped out 16 year old stock shifter. The shorter throws are welcome... I'll see how it all ends up once reassembled (which is a major PIA with the Recaro SPG's in it...).
Any tips for getting the center console back on? The E-brake lever is sort of in the way and no wiggle room with the thigh bolsters on the seats.
I was one of those that advocated trying to adjust cables first. You may need to tweak it again if you live in a state that gets cold.
I found the stock alignment tool will get you 85-90% there but there is room on the table to tweak it further with just a couple thread difference. This is sometimes needed to keep the shifting feel consistent between cold and warm temps if your adjustment is just on the edge.
I found the stock alignment tool will get you 85-90% there but there is room on the table to tweak it further with just a couple thread difference. This is sometimes needed to keep the shifting feel consistent between cold and warm temps if your adjustment is just on the edge.
The trick to getting the center console back in for me was to push the passenger seat all the way back and fully reclined. From the passenger side, "Nose" the console in at the dash end first while lifting the back end over the side bolster of the seat (it also helps to remove the bottom insert on the vertical center piece).
Last edited by dporto; Oct 30, 2015 at 09:13 AM.
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My seats are fixed back race seats... haha. I'll see whatelse I can remove from the center dash, that might be the trick. I tugged and rolled it out toward the passenger seat, but had to keep moving the seats back and forth.
I did man handle it in with the Nose-down approach. One little part had to self-clearance itself but I don't think it did much anyhow.
I did man handle it in with the Nose-down approach. One little part had to self-clearance itself but I don't think it did much anyhow.
Last edited by Relegate; Oct 29, 2015 at 10:52 PM.
Best bet is to just remove the driver's seat. I've done it both ways during my 5 shifter review.
I tried it once with a fixed back seat and kicked myself because I ended up scratching the underside of the eBrake handle.
Just be sure to not put the key in the ignition until all seats are in and connected or else you may trigger a airbag light. Unless you programmed out the seat check like I did.

I tried it once with a fixed back seat and kicked myself because I ended up scratching the underside of the eBrake handle.
Just be sure to not put the key in the ignition until all seats are in and connected or else you may trigger a airbag light. Unless you programmed out the seat check like I did.
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