When I turned my ignition key today, I heard an unusual and loud snap. I was barely able to get the key out. Now, I can insert the key with a little bit of wiggling and get the car started, and also turn it off and remove the key with a bit of wiggling of the key. When I remove the key, I no longer hear the usual "clunk" sound that means the steering wheel is locked. In fact, the steering wheel is not locked.


I searched the forum but I don't see that anyone else has had the same issue.


Any ideas?

 

Hopefully, the ignition switch is due a replacement. And, not the entire assembly. I had a similar experience where the key barely entered the ignition hole. Replacing the ignition switch remedied the issue. Good luck.






http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item4


http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...with-pictures/

 

Did the same thing only mine would not come out. Dropped in the $12 VW ignition switch and have been good for 5 years. You have to contort yourself and remove a small piece of ducting to get to it if I recall.

 

Thanks guys. The Renntech instructions look very useful. I'm going to buy the Porsche OEM switch.

 

Certainly buy the one that you are most comfortable with but keep in mind that the OE VW/Audi switch may literally be the same one Porsche uses. Only you won't pay the Porsche Tax on it. Most messages I have read state that there is no Porsche OEM switch as Porsche prefers you replace the entire lock housing which includes the switch.

"NAPA #ATM 4A 0905849B $9.48 will fix it 98% of the time without changing the whole steering lock assy.
Porsche does not sell the switch separately anymore,you have to buy the whole assy. VW & Audi still sell it."

I see them anywhere from $11 for an aftermarket one up to $25. So it is an inexpensive part in any case.

I advise you to do it soon because when mine broke, I could not remove the key nor lock the doors. Also with the key in the ignition, I believe certain accessories were on and draining the battery. At that time I didn't have a private garage so I had to get it fixed fast.

These are the instructions I followed.

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/R...on_Switch.html

 

Thanks for the useful information. In terms of the switch, it seems the one Pelican Parts has listed as OEM is the Audi part. I now have the Renntech instructions as well as the Pedro's Garage instructions -- the more the better.


Incidentally, this morning, when I thought I needed to replace the entire ignition lock assembly, I called the Porsche dealer and they quoted me $1000. They didn't say anything about the switch alone being the likely culprit. I then called an independent Porsche service shop who said he'd replaced dozens of the switches to cure problems like what I have. He said he's very rarely had to replace the entire lock assembly.

 

"Incidentally, this morning, when I thought I needed to replace the entire ignition lock assembly, I called the Porsche dealer and they quoted me $1000."

Ha! That's why they're often referred to as "stealerships"!!!

 

I replaced my original ignition switch with the Audi ignition switch (4A0-905-849B) and my problem is solved! While I wasn't having any electrical problems -- just a mechanical issue with getting the key in and out) the electrical switch was binding and making it difficult for the key to line up properly. When I removed the old switch from the car, I could see that it did not turn very smoothly, whereas the new one did.

This took me a few hours, but mainly because I couldn't get a flat head screwdriver into the spots I needed to release the electrical switch. A word of wisdom -- you need a small flat head screwdriver that is less than 2.5 inches long. Anything longer and the air duct prevents you from lining up the screw driver to turn the screw. Once I got the short screw driver, it was very easy to remove the ignition switch and replace it.

I did remove the left side vent, but I'm not sure that helped in any way. I also removed the OBD connector, but that turned out to be unnecessary.


I referred to the instructions on both Rennlist and Pedro's Garage
One more thing to note about the small screws that retain the ignition switch is that they are exactly 180 degrees apart and face the same direction. The bottom one you can see, but the top one is only visible if you have a mirror (which is useful to get your bearings).

Thanks to everyone for their input!

 

Great job. I replaced mine 5 years and 16,000 miles ago. Although the duty cycle should be measured more on start/stops than mileage.

Still works perfect ever since.