Just like it says, I'm looking for my first Porsche to be a daily driver. I don't drive much, a couple days a week to work (5 miles each way) and around town on the weekends/days off. I've been putting between 7-9k miles a year on my current BMW. I've landed on a 996. Sure I'd like an air cooled but for the money and being a daily driver I don't think it's the best fit. And a 997 is twice the price of a 996. From everything I've read it seems like the logical starting point. They seem to be a good value right now. I do understand they come with some basic issues: IMS, RMS and they look terrible (some people's opinion)
My first question: why is it that KBB is no where in the ball park of what people are asking for their used 996? I figured a car with around 65000 miles would be low for a car that is 15-18 years old. KBB says around 15k for a car in very good condition with that many miles. And if it has 75000 miles more like 13k. From what I'm seeing people are asking at least 10k more than that for a low mile example.
Question 2: other than extensive service records/carfax if available is there anything that I need look for? Also how many miles should I be looking for before it's too much and not worth it?
Question 3: C2 or C4 or C4S? Seems like the c2 is probably a safe bet for my use? Also KBB says C4 values are lower than C2?

Thanks in advance!

 

same here, but torn between early 70s 911s, 996tt and 997tt.

 

I'm in the exact same boat as Vcap.

I currently have a classic Corvette and an 03 Jetta diesel I use as my DD and looking to add to the stable. I plan on keeping the VW as a junk car to haul my Lab around and have been on the hunt for a well kept 996 to use as my new DD semi seriously for about 6 months. Looking for the same kind of advice as Vcap from the experts and subscribed to this thread. Although I had a 914 many years ago, I consider this to be my first Porsche purchase. Thanks in advance, Keith (vwtdi)

 

Just traded up from a 2000 Boxster. Previously owned a 944S. Pretty much got the car I've always wanted 911 996...46,000 miles, 2003 teal color with beige interior. Had it checked out by my friend (and Porsche mechanic). Says it's a great buy. We discussed the IMS and RMS. We both did research and only about 5% of the 911s (and Boxsters) had problems with IMS, RMS and little known piston sleeve cracking.
Go for the 996 and for those who think they're terrible looking haven't owned or driven one.
Good luck.

 

For question (1) I have no hard answer just some thoughts: The price asked by the seller is just an opinion, not fact. You do not know what the actual selling price is in most cases.

(A technique I have used in the past to try to get a better handle on actual market prices is to follow used cars for sale and then after the ad disappears call and try to learn what the car actually sold for. The problem is often not being able to visit the car and make some determination of its actual condition, the seller being unwilling to share what he actually sold the car for, and the time it takes. I don't really recall gaining any real insight into market prices using this technique and I have found other ways to price and attempt to buy a used car that I feel suit me and deliver results I'm comfortable with.)

Still on (1) I was at a local Porsche dealer the other day -- attending a customer appreciation day -- and looked over some used Porsches and FWIW KBB was prominently displayed on the used car sticker as a source of the price.

I like to point out that as a buyer it is not my job to do the seller's job for him, that is use the site that prices cars the highest. If site #1 has lower prices than site #2 I'm using #1 and going to make the seller justify his higher asking price. I arm myself with a number 3 or 4 other cars with details to show the seller I have other cars to choose from.

Regarding question (2) extensive service records is a plus. Good servcing is a sign the car was well taken care of and probably "loved".

Of course the condition of the car as best can be determined by a thorough used car check out is important too and if one is very serious about the car afterwards a PPI.

A clean CarFax report is not a 100% guarantee the car is truely free of any negatives. Not all events end up on a CarFax report. You would like to see regular service, registration, smog inspection events and a reasonable increase/progression in the miles over time.

As for what to look for? Everything. The car is just a used car so a thorough used car check out will go along way to helping you make the right decision regarding the car.

Briefly, you want to spend time with the car stationary and the engine idling then as a passenger in the car with the car being driven by the seller as you intend to drive it then as the driver driving the car the same way as the seller.

IOWs, you have to experience the car in its natural state: Engine running and the car on the road being used as you intend to use it.

If you want a more detailed write up send me a private email and I'll reply with one.

Since depreciation is the biggest expense of owning a car the higher the miles the lower the price and thus the lower the depreciation. However, there is the cost of addressing any issues that arise as the car's mileage increases.

One can keep a used car on the road for a fraction of what one would spend and suffer in deprecation for a lower miles high priced used car.

(With my 2002 Boxster and its nearly 315K miles every time it is time for anything other than routine servicing I think about getting rid of the car but then realize no way I could replace it with anything similar for anywhere near what the service/repair cost I'm facing. That the basic car is sound and everything works makes facing say replacing the top (which I did not too long ago) or replacing all the O2 sensors (done even more recently than the top) or replacing the instrument cluster (done even more recently than the sensors) more agreeable than selling the car and buying something else.)

Not sure at what miles a car might be considered not worth it. With bigger miles comes a lower purchase price but with the risk of what one saves on the purchase price he'll spend on addressing something "big". Still barring an engine failure other things can be addressed for not that much money relatively speaking. Parts obtained from a reputable used/salvaged Porsche parts supplier can be used to save some money. (I have bought used converters and a used instrutment cluster and might try a used MAF.)

Also if the higher miles car is not going to be used that much then this reduces the odds of something having to be addressed. While my Boxster has big miles (almost 315K to date) in the past couple of years I've cut back my driving and put around 10K miles per year on the car. And for my 2003 996 Turbo (currently with just over 157K miles on it) the number of miles per year is down to a bit over 5K miles. With a bit of luck I think I can use these cars for years to come at this annual mileage rate without having to fork over really big bucks to address an issue related to the high miles.

For question (3) my advice is unless you really can't stand the looks of the C2 or really love the looks of the C4 or C4S buy the C2. The C2 is a simpler car with less to go wrong with it and as the miles go higher that becomes more and more important.

The AWD system is not very good. (I own a 2003 996 Turbo with the same AWD system as the C4 models and am quite familar with the system. Should the system develop any serious problems (I've already had to have the front diff axle flange seals replaced due to leaking) I'm just removing the AWD system and converting the car to RWD only.)

The AWD system won't make the car into a rally car. A RWD only car fitted with proper snow tires and driven in a manner in tune with the weather/traction conditions can do quite well in marginal traction conditions.

Front and rear tire sizing becomes critical with the AWD system. The ratio in revs per mile the rear tires make vs. the fronts wants to remain in some "ballpark" to ensure the viscous coupling isn't subjected to too much difference in rotational speed between the rear and front tires to avoid overheating this coupling.

 

Thank you Macster. I have 2 cars like your 02 Boxster and need to spend more on garages ��.

I was leaning towards a C4S, but if I could run into a 1 owner with all the service records and the right color combo C2, I'm going to do what I can to strike a deal with the seller.

 

Best of luck with your search.

Just so it is clear I wouldn't reject an otherwise fine example of a C4 or C4S just because it is an AWD model. I would be aware of the limitations and restrictions the AWD system brings with it. But I'd enjoy the car just the same. I mean as I mentioned before my Turbo has the AWD system but I dont' care. I drive my Turbo and enjoy the heck of out of and don't think twice about the AWD system.

 

I have 2 C4S's and the reason is my wife and I love them for being a "do it all" sports car and the AWDS is quite amazing but you need to know how to drive to get the best out of it as it likes to oversteer. Next purchase will be a TT and it has the same AWDS and believe me Porsche engineers know what they are doing, just ask most TT owners and track days are a hoot with the AWDS as turn ins are quicker.

Don't be swayed away but definitely do your homework and pay that bit extra for the better car, you'll love your purchase ! Best of luck, hope you get the perfect one.

 

One of my long-time friends from a local PCA club always told me to be patient. He has helped over 100 other club Members find the Porsche they want. He new me and the kind of enthusiast I was and told me that based on my budget and the kind of driving I liked to do that I needed to find a 911 with sport seats, sport exhaust and sport suspension. It took me 18 months to locate the right car. He further advocates finding the lowest mile latest model possible (while staying within budget).

Also, there is a big difference in how people take car of their vehicles. If you are not careful, conduct a PPI and/or have a reference on the car from a trusted source you risk getting into a car that will cost you another 20% in the first year just to get it up to spec like you want (especially for a DD).

As for the 996 "look", once they got past the Boxster similarities in (look 2003 and later) the only thing the purists argue about is the headlights. The lighter the color the less you even notice, AND you cannot tell the difference behind the wheel. For the money, the 996 is the best value supercar on the market.

Shamelessly, I just happen to have a very clean, low mile 996 in Arctic Silver listed on this forum that is in perfect condition including the IMS/RMS fix (done preventative). cleanest 996, under 34k miles (https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...03-911-c2.html). Conflicted about selling becase it is a beautiful enthusiast setup, but one of the local PCA club Members sold me his C4S which was a year newer with less miles than mine and I always wanted an AWD with sport brakes). Porsche number 3 for me.

That said, some of the other comments are accurate when they say it depends on how it feels, smells, looks, and drives! If it feels solid, does not have rattles and wind noises, pulls strong and gets good marks from a qualified Porsche or Bosche service technician, then you are probably looking at a good choice. I can tell you that is what I did on my first two Porsches and they were bulletproof without any issues. Just regular oil changes, some brake pads and tires. Oh, and they will all need the hydraulic struts for the front boot (hood) if you don't want the thing falling on your head (Just replace the two on my 2003, I think cost was $26).

Good luck with your search.