Hi. My ignition key/switch has turned sluggish and very often the key gets stuck (maybe due to it has come of age - '99 996 coupe). You have to wiggle the key to get it out. The car still senses that the key is still in the ignition even though I've already pulled it out. I've browsed around and found out 2 solutions: replace just the switch or the whole assembly. Hence and since I'm on a tight budget now (school opening soon) I was contemplating on just replacing the switch $30 vs the whole assembly $265 and do a DIY. Having described my issue will I get away with just doing the switch?

Whole assembly or switch only?

 

Most people have problems with just the ignition switch section of this unit, but I wouldn't buy anything yet. If you replace the whole unit, you may find yourself in a pickle because the complete lock assembly is not keyed to your specific key. If I'm not mistaken, this will have to be done by Porsche. I've had ignition problems on both of my 996 cars. My last 996 had the same symptoms you have. That is, the key was hard to turn and you didn't hear the characteristic "clunk" sound when the key was removed from the ignition. I gently sprayed a small amount of lubricant into the shaft, worked the key in and out a few times. The problem was solved. It's my theory that the ignition assemblies get gummed up from dirty keys and of course, normal age on the mechanics cause them to be sluggish to operate. IMHO, I would first try cleaning it with some compressed air and then gently lubricating the shaft. Next, work your key in and out, and then turn the ignition from position 1 and 2 a few times. Be careful not to flood the key shaft with lots of lubricant! Only takes a little bit. Let us know how it works out!

 

Thanks so much for that advise! Will do the lube solution this weekend and will let you know what happens (keeping my fingers crossed).

Just a few q's:
1. Compressed air: can I use my compressor used for painting running 100psi?
2. Lube: can I use WD40?
3. Do I spray WD40 into the keyhole or apply on the key? Any danger in flooding? Is there electronic circuits inside the keyhole I should be worried about?
3. When you mentioned "complete lock assembly" did you mean the whole assembly (the one with the aluminum metal looking tubes with an attached electronic switch) or just the electronic switch? Reason I asked is there was a post by 'Johnstof' and he replaced his switch without dealer intervention or re-programming and was ultimately successful. (Wishful thinking).

thanks again!

 

1. I just use standard aerosol compressed air in the can. You're just trying to blow out lint and dirt before adding the lubricant.
2. You should use a electrical silicone spray IMHO... CRC is one of the best brands. I wouldn't recommend standard WD40 for this job.
3. I gently sprayed a very small amount into the keyhole and onto the actual laser etched portion of the key. It's always a good idea to disconnect 12V+ from the battery to avoid any chance of shorting it out. That's why it's important to only use a small amount.
4. Yes, I meant the whole kit and kaboodle. Most people just replace the switch NOT the whole assembly. They're a common problem with these cars. Therefore, if simple lubrication doesn't work, I'd recommend changing out just the ignition switch.

 

Got it! Will look for that CRC silicone spray then since all I have is WD40. Will post progress this weekend. Thanks again B3freak!

 

I would just change the switch only & save the rest for beers . They're inexpensive & easy DIY

 

I’m pretty sure the white one you have pictured is for 2004 and later.
The 4A... is the earlier PN #: 4A0-905-849-B-M56
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...gnition+switch

 

Thanks for this info. however, i already got the WRONG part and I have already exchanged it for the right one! :-( That's what happens when you're in a hurry and you don't check the thread hahaha! But thanks for the effort!

 

UPDATE: So Here goes just to close the thread...

I got the wrong part for my 99 the 4B0 905 849. The correct part number for a 99 911 996 is 4A0 905 849 B.

I followed the instructions on the links and that was very useful. It took out the guessing game. Although, there was one thing I bypassed which was the removal of the side air vent. Upon seeing the switch underneath, I had the confidence to just work from there (due to my small size) :-)

So here are some more tips which were not mentioned in the write ups which I feel are important:
1. When you re-insert the switch, try to fit it first without reconnecting the wire attachment/harness. In that way you can insert the key and find out if the switch and the slot are aligned.
2. Also make sure that the both your key and the ignition are in position #0 or OFF position.
3.Just to check if the switch is ok, reconnect the harness but don't tighten the 2 mini screws yet! Push and secure it first so that you can try firing up your engine.
4. If it fires and everything seem to be working, that's the time you tighten the screws and you're done!
5. After you re-install the air duct, you can now have your beer! :-)

The wife took my picture while I was working on the switch and we haven't stopped laughing! Here's something to cheer you guys up...




Thanks again for the help and all your inputs guys! Cheers!

 

hahahaha... love the picture!!!!

I'm assuming you got the switch installed and now all is good in your 996 life?

 

Yes! and my back hurts.... :-) Thanks b3freak!

 

Glad you made reasonable steps to solve the exact problem (i.e. faulty switch) instead replacing the entire assembly. That would have been a nightmare and expensive too. Lots of people think they can just buy the parts and they'll be plug and play, but that's not always the case. I know many people that buy used replacement keyfobs on eBay and think they can get just anyone to reprogram them to their cars. In the end, they end up having to purchase brand new keyfobs from Porsche and have the dealership program them. Lesson learned every time.

 

Last year, I replaced the switch only with an Audi part that I got from www.autohausaz.com for $25 plus shipping. To change the whole assembly was around $1000 at the dealership ( 4 hours of labor). The switch alone doesn't require re-keying or doing anything involving you key. Glad it worked out.

 

I am having this issue and called the dealer for a quote and they want $720 to replace the lock assembly and switch. I'm planning to swap the switch myself. What part number is the switch for a 2002 C4S? Does the steering lock assembly need to be replaced as well? Or will the switch be enough?