Have a 2 day DE in July in Texas and looking to make sure I can stop:

1. Whats the recommended break fluid and how much do I need for a complete flush, front and rear.
2. What are the recommended brake pads
3. What are the recommended braided brake lines

02 C2 with ROW M030, ssk, rear child seat, daily driver, oh and some cheerios under the passenger seat

Thanks

 

If it's your first DE, you'll be nowhere near the fade point of the stock brakes. Get them flushed, put in high-temperature brake fluid, and head to the track.

If you've got some track experience, and you think you'll be that hard on the brakes, someone else should chime in.

BTW, can you post picks of the rear child seat in your car? I'm trying to convince my wife...

 

I've run about 30 track/DE days on bikes and 10 in cars , current daytime high in Dallas 36 c / 100 f and getting hotter.

 

...in which case you may want to post this on the Turbo board, as it gets a lot more traffic. I'd help if I could, but I've never had a problem with the stock brakes. Never done a DE in triple-digit temperatures, either.

 

On a street car for DE purposes the stock brake pads and brake lines will do fine. If you are a novice or low intermediate, the stock brake fluid will do fine too. On a hot track, you can experience some brake fade after repeated laps at high speed. If you think you are going to push the car enough to experience brake fade then flushing the brake fluid and switching to a high temp brake fluid would be wise.

 

You'll get all kind of opinions - but here's mine (from experience)

For small tracks like Shendoah, I will stick with the BHP's. (www.bhpbrakes.com) I may try the Pagid yellows (p-19) for the big track at Summit and VIR. I hate to change pads, and I need the initial bite of the BHP's for street and AutoX, but I may give the yellows a try since my mechanic can swap out the pads fairly quickly.

Fluid is very important - you want fresh, high temp fluid. Castrol SRF was my perferred fluid until a reputable inividual recently told me the Castrol SRF has been "reformulated" and my be causing brake seal issues. He recommends the AP600. The ATE super blue is not a high temp track fluid, even though some guys here will say it is. It's fine for street (or light track) but the fluid may be the most important part of the brake equation as without good fluid pressure there are no brakes!

Enjoy the track - Remember "Drive it like you stole it, but keep the shinny side up!"

 

in my first DE i easily pushed the stock pads beyond their operating temps and the brakes faded. i didn't want it to happen again so i got pagid yellow/rs-19 race pads. pricey but they last long and are easier on the rotors. oh ya, they bite like crazy but are easy to modulate.

i recommend motul rbf600, especially in HOT texas. higher boiling point than ate superblue (which i have boiled). not expensive either, about 15$/liter container. 2 containers should do it, might as well get 3. get a motive power bleeder and its a one person job. you'll get a solid brake pedal. remember, there are 2 bleeder screws per caliper.

stock brake lines are fine. just check them for cracks and leaks.