I am uprgading to these with trg drop links can anybody give me suggestions for settings? I am running PSS9 with 19"
Thanks

 

Really nobody running gt-3 sway bars here?

 

You want them set to the middle setting.

 

On my 2000 C4 w/std US suspension and 18's I started with the GT3's OE postions (front in the 3rd of 5 holes and the rear set one hole from softest). This was a huge improvement in terms of keeping the car flat when cornering, and inital turn-in is MUCH quicker.

Later I stiffened the rear bar one position. I've had it this way for the last couple of months and find the balance even more to my liking. Next time I may try the stiffest position just to see...

You may find that the PSS9's have already shifting the roll balance toward the rear. This is one of the benefits of the ROW M030 and X74 packages; their percentage of rear stiffening is greater than that of the front. I'm just guessing here since I've never seen anything published for the actual values of the PSS9's spring rates.

 

Thanks that should give me a good starting point.

 

Are new drop links required for these on a c4?

 

Yes..new drop links are required....

 

Mine required the links to be slightly longer than OEM and I had to adjust their final lengths so that the swabar's arms wouldn't hit the bottom of the front axles, particularly during parking maneuvers.

Be sure to follow the FWM instructions that say to check/align the links' upper joints with the intended hole in the swaybar arms. With standard type struts you do this by loosiening a clamp bolt and rotating the struts' lower spring seat. This adjsutment is necessary to prevent the heim joints from running out of travel. If/when this happens the joints will bind, bend, and even brake. I believe this is the design aspect that makes replacement links so difficult; the 996 front links require a lot more tolerance of miss-alignment.

Also, when you jack the car up (to remove a tire for example) you'll find the swabar arm now bottoms out on the lower control arm. I have not seen any harm or problem from this, so I mention it only to make readers aware.

All the above also means that you can't make every the adjustments at the same time. You need the weight off to move lower spring perch, but the car setting on its tires to adjust link length and remove pre-load. FYI - I use four 8"-tall blocks, one under each tire, to give me room to work under the car while its setting at normal height.

 

I'm running the gt3 sway bars with agency power droplinks - Dan at vividracing.com hooked me up. I'm running the fronts centered and the rears one to soft (one further from center from bar) - I'm going to move to the softest on the rear as I find that the car is very loose on turn exit (need to get the tires on the ground) - I'm also running a Cross FLT-2 suspension, similar to PSS9 and will work with that to soften the rear a bit...

Not sure this helps, but I think most 996s tend to be tight on entry loose on exit in turns by nature, any thing to adjust is helpful!