Ok so 1.8 will be a good compromise I think.
And front 2.2

 

I have compiled a table with everyone's settings (converted into degrees and minutes of a degree)



I assumed defaults for those of you that didn't mention things like castor. I also made guesses for figures where you guys had not been specific.

Any changes, or more figures then please let me know!!

 

Hi Alex,

Fantastic & thanks for the effort! Please correct my setting:

My front camber is minus 1.2 degree, which translates into minus 1 degree 12 minutes (the 12 is from .2 x 60).
My front toe is minus (toe out) .02/.03 degree, which comes out to be about minus 2 minutes, rounding up.

The setting comes from Tom at Lucent Motorsports, Los Angeles. I believe he set this according to my (amateur) skill level and looking at the wear of my tires. With less negative front camber, I believe my front tires were wearing the outside wall more (?).

At the above toe-out setting, I find the steering response to be plenty quick & sharp enough for the street (no track). In fact a stranger going to my car might just feel it to be slightly hypersensitive.

 

Your ride height still -10mm F/R?

 

Hit Browser Refresh to see new chart on first post

 

Super Alex, my car still has the gmg springs, rd ht measured at mid fenderwell is 26" fr/ and 26.25"rear.
My front camber is -1.5, rear is -2.1. My sways are set med fr/rear. The rest looks about right.
C

 

Chris - 26 inches is like 660mm!! Unless you have converted your car into a monster truck, I think this isn't right. If you know how much it was lowered then I can reference the stock values.

Also, 1.5 and 2.1 are converted into fractions of a degree (60 minutes), so I have these correct already.

 

Some of us, me included , never did get the "official" measurements of ride height, the one from the 2 bolts on the frame. What we settled on is mid frender to ground height measurements. Mine is 15mm drop front, 10mm rear. But again this is from mid fender height to ground, which is not as nearly as accurate.

I've read numerous & countless posts on suspension tuning, and I have to say this is one of the most useful table I've run across.
For those new to this, concentrate on 3 things:

1. Front camber: we make it more negative to increase front cornering force/traction and reduce understeer, a big problem with stock Turbo.

2. Front toe out: stock is positive which is toe-in; some of us change to negative which is toe-out. Toe out improves steering's turn-in response and allows the car to rotate better in corners (throttle controlled oversteer). Steering becomes very direct and sensitive so this is one you must be careful about.

3. Rear camber: more negative to improve traction in high speed corners.

 

Alex,

My sways are set at stiff rear and med front.

 

Hit refresh again to see updated table

 

Added some notes. I guessed at track use and happiness with settings from posts people have put up.

If you want to change anything please let me know and I will update table.

I am thinking of putting a lot more toe in on my front to aid grip. Here's a great site for information: http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/tc/print.htm

Caster
<table border="1" bordercolor="blue"> <tbody><tr> <td>Caster is a very sensitive adjustment!
Adding or removing a few degrees of caster can transform the steering balance of a car.</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="1" bordercolor="blue"> <tbody><tr> <td>More</td> <td>More caster aids stability, especially at high speeds.
More caster generally suits large, open, high-speed tracks.</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Less</td> <td>Less caster increases steering drastically.
Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.
Small amounts of caster are suitable for tight tracks.</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
Toe
<table border="1" bordercolor="blue"> <tbody><tr> <td>Rear Toe-in</td> <td>This is one of the most sensitive adjustments! One degree goes a long way.
Stabilizes the car greatly. It makes the rear end 'stick'. The more toe-in you use, the more the rear of the car sticks. This is especially apparent going into and coming out of turns.
But more toe-in makes the difference between sticking and breaking loose bigger.
Large amounts of toe-in (2.5 ... 3 degrees) scrub off a little speed in the straights.</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Rear Toe-out</td> <td>Rear toe-out is never used. It makes the rear of the car very, very unstable.</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Front Toe-in</td> <td>Stabilizes the car in the straights, and coming out of turns.
It smoothes out the steering response, making the car easy to drive.
It can make the car turn a little more in the middle and exit parts of a turn.</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Front Toe-out</td> <td>Increases turn-in steering a lot.
But can make the car wandery on the straights.
Never use more than 2 degrees of front toe-out!</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
Camber

<table border="1" bordercolor="blue"> <tbody><tr> <td>Camber is best set so the tires' contact patch is as big as possible at all times. So with a stiff suspension and firm tires you'll need less camber than with a soft suspension or tires with big, flexible sidewalls.
If the tires wear evenly across their contact patches, camber is about right.</td> </tr> </tbody></table>

 

Great writeup. Thanks for sharing.