Attention track rats...Expert advice needed.
First picture is of Sparkhill's damaged Bilstein drop link, installed incorrectly. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the damper. It is inserted on the shock from behind. The lower end is inboard of the sway.
Second picture is of Sparkhill's new RSS link. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the shock...it is again from the rear. And now, the lower end is outboard of the sway.
Does this look correct? I thought the bolt was suppposed to be from the front on the top, and inboard on the sway?
The reason I ask, is because the third photo shows a TechArt/Bilstein setup with the drop link on the inboard of the sway, but the drop link bolts on the damper from behind (a third variation.)
Second picture is of Sparkhill's new RSS link. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the shock...it is again from the rear. And now, the lower end is outboard of the sway.
Does this look correct? I thought the bolt was suppposed to be from the front on the top, and inboard on the sway?
The reason I ask, is because the third photo shows a TechArt/Bilstein setup with the drop link on the inboard of the sway, but the drop link bolts on the damper from behind (a third variation.)

sparkhill,
The SharkLink does not look like the rod end type (Heim joint) that's all metallic; it looks like the plastic bushing similar to that of the stock drop link?
If so, are you using the same type -- plastic bushing -- front AND rear?
Reason I asked: Because the metallic Heim joint increases the effect of sway bar (both how strong and how fast -- there is no "give"), may not be a good idea to mix them?
The SharkLink does not look like the rod end type (Heim joint) that's all metallic; it looks like the plastic bushing similar to that of the stock drop link?
If so, are you using the same type -- plastic bushing -- front AND rear?
Reason I asked: Because the metallic Heim joint increases the effect of sway bar (both how strong and how fast -- there is no "give"), may not be a good idea to mix them?
As to Mikelly's perspective, also great points. I am 97% street and 3% track and was continually needing to have the adjustable front drop links adjusted. I do not have a lift and the frequent adjustments were inconvenient and costly. I am happy with my modified "stock" drop links. They don't require adjustment (both a positive and negative) and they are sturdier than the crap Bilstein provided. If I shift to more track time, then I will probably go with the Tarret's or something similar. I feel that I am far improved from stock now, I drive mostly on the street, and my driving skills are still pretty raw so I can afford a little compromise at the moment.
I am still learning and threads like this are great!
Last edited by sparkhill; Nov 4, 2009 at 09:01 PM.
on my 996 gt3 I can adjust the front droplinks just by turning the wheels to opposite lock and reaching in behind the wheel/tire...no lift needed (I have no pre-load on the bar)...quick way to check them for tightness too...
First picture is of Sparkhill's damaged Bilstein drop link, installed incorrectly. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the damper. It is inserted on the shock from behind. The lower end is inboard of the sway.
Second picture is of Sparkhill's new RSS link. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the shock...it is again from the rear. And now, the lower end is outboard of the sway.
Does this look correct? I thought the bolt was suppposed to be from the front on the top, and inboard on the sway?
The reason I ask, is because the third photo shows a TechArt/Bilstein setup with the drop link on the inboard of the sway, but the drop link bolts on the damper from behind...kind of like the way the Bilstein drop link was installed incorrectly.
Second picture is of Sparkhill's new RSS link. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the shock...it is again from the rear. And now, the lower end is outboard of the sway.
Does this look correct? I thought the bolt was suppposed to be from the front on the top, and inboard on the sway?
The reason I ask, is because the third photo shows a TechArt/Bilstein setup with the drop link on the inboard of the sway, but the drop link bolts on the damper from behind...kind of like the way the Bilstein drop link was installed incorrectly.
First picture is of Sparkhill's damaged Bilstein drop link, installed incorrectly. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the damper. It is inserted on the shock from behind. The lower end is inboard of the sway.
Second picture is of Sparkhill's new RSS link. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the shock...it is again from the rear. And now, the lower end is outboard of the sway.
Does this look correct? I thought the bolt was suppposed to be from the front on the top, and inboard on the sway?
The reason I ask, is because the third photo shows a TechArt/Bilstein setup with the drop link on the inboard of the sway, but the drop link bolts on the damper from behind...kind of like the way the Bilstein drop link was installed incorrectly.
Second picture is of Sparkhill's new RSS link. Note the direction of the drop link bolt on the shock...it is again from the rear. And now, the lower end is outboard of the sway.
Does this look correct? I thought the bolt was suppposed to be from the front on the top, and inboard on the sway?
The reason I ask, is because the third photo shows a TechArt/Bilstein setup with the drop link on the inboard of the sway, but the drop link bolts on the damper from behind...kind of like the way the Bilstein drop link was installed incorrectly.
I have mine(RSS) installed on the rear of the shocks and on the outside of the sway. No issues and no noise. I have posted some pics of mine in this thread.
I was under the impression that the Bilstein drop links installed from the rear would increase the torque motion, causing them to fail prematurely. Since I am installing beefier ones, was curious if it made a difference, provided that the angle is not to extreme.
Many thanks to all that gave input...links are on the way.
- bob
Many thanks to all that gave input...links are on the way.
- bob
report.In my experience, there is no doubt that the metallic heim joint have pluses and minuses. Just like any other mods that we do.
First the pluses: Obviously, a solid link will increase the effect of the sway bar (think of pushing an object with a rubber stick, then replace it with a metal stick). In addition or perhaps as a result, the car feels more planted, and there is less rubbery/bouncy feeling, seemingly less vertical motion.
Minuses:
Noise: Don't ask me why, but there is no question that in my car the solid link brings more tire noise AND engine noise AND road noise into the cabin. I have noticed this both times that I switched in and out.
One example, when you go over the road reflector, the solid link gives a loud crack, the rubber link gives a low frequency thump.
There are freeway crack that I would avoid with the solid link and not with the rubber link.
Ride: No question also that the solid link makes the car feels stiffer. We had a discussion about this in that long rennteam thread of mine on the Bilstein. A guy there ("GT") and I were talking about how intolerable the ride is with the solid link in the stiff setting. We were surprised because no one has mentioned this... well, no one that we know has ever reviewed a drop link anyway. But bottom line: YES, it affects ride.
Your concern about the longevity and durability of all solid metal links are also valid, although I've rarely seen reports of these failing. For sure the exposed joints bring concerns, and I am waiting for more users' reports once we have more people using this.
Tarett might be working on a rubber boost system to cover the exposed metal link and keep it lubricated.
Autumn is here...twigs start to fall :)
Very easy DIY if you have ramps.
Talked to my man at farnbacher-loles, they are installing my B16s next week with the bilstein links. They prefer the bilsteins over most of the atermarket items available, according to him it's all in the install and not going too low in the ride ht, they've installed over a 100 sets with zero link failures. This is the guy who sets up the 87 car, so I think he knows what he's doing.
Talked to my man at farnbacher-loles, they are installing my B16s next week with the bilstein links. They prefer the bilsteins over most of the atermarket items available, according to him it's all in the install and not going too low in the ride ht, they've installed over a 100 sets with zero link failures. This is the guy who sets up the 87 car, so I think he knows what he's doing.

I am beginning to think more and more that the weakness is in the Bilstein's version of the plastic bushing. Why? The stock plastic bushing doesn't seem to have the same problem, and neither does sparkhill's "Sharklink" below.
So if and when my Bilstein link pops out, if I don't want to go to Heim joint type, then the best solution might be the Sharklink!
sparkhill, do you know what exactly is it that Alex is using on your car? Is it a stock GT3 drop link? TIA
So if and when my Bilstein link pops out, if I don't want to go to Heim joint type, then the best solution might be the Sharklink!
sparkhill, do you know what exactly is it that Alex is using on your car? Is it a stock GT3 drop link? TIA
I am pretty sure the SharkLink started as a stock part that was cut, reoriented, shortened and re-welded but you really would need to talk to Alex. It has been on my car about a week and I am happy with the performance. The ride seems similar to the Bilstein drop links except the sway bar is actually connected. It seems like a good compromise for me at this time.
Talked to my man at farnbacher-loles, they are installing my B16s next week with the bilstein links. They prefer the bilsteins over most of the atermarket items available, according to him it's all in the install and not going too low in the ride ht, they've installed over a 100 sets with zero link failures. This is the guy who sets up the 87 car, so I think he knows what he's doing.

Farnbacher-Loles certainly knows what they are doing, but I have a couple of questions. If it "all in the install," is F-L installing the drop links in a different orientation than Bilstein recommends? Also, regarding the ride height, most of us are well above the Bilstein specs for minimum ride height and still getting failures. It seems to me that we should not be seeing failures as long as the installation is done within Bilstein specs. I am just trying to figure it all out. Maybe you can post your ride height and a few photos when you get the car back. Thanks.
I'll post a shot of the stock bilstein
Last edited by TT Surgeon; Nov 7, 2009 at 02:18 PM.
Operation drop link...done
Drop links are in...very easy install, basic tools.
And the verdict is...well...we'll have to wait for another trip to Road America...and it's already November in Wisconsin. Oh well. Daily driving...no real difference, maybe a tad sharper in my turn in, road feel is the same. Well...if you have to replace the twigs from Bilstein, it's an easy straight shot.
BTW, anyone have torque settings for the bolts on the dampers and sways?
And the verdict is...well...we'll have to wait for another trip to Road America...and it's already November in Wisconsin. Oh well. Daily driving...no real difference, maybe a tad sharper in my turn in, road feel is the same. Well...if you have to replace the twigs from Bilstein, it's an easy straight shot.
BTW, anyone have torque settings for the bolts on the dampers and sways?






