Calling all track gurus, opinions and advice is needed.

As with many Bilstein users, my front drop links have snapped off the platic coupling like a twig, and it's time to invest in new drop links. I elected to use a GT2 sway in the rear on it's stiffest setting, and the stock sway up front to offset the understeer, which has worked relatively well.

Does anyone have experience with using a mounting bracket to bring the drop link higher on the damper to improve it's geometry with the front sway bar? The only thing I have found is this:



My limited understanding is the elevated position offers greater resistance to body lean and lateral weight transfer. By changing the position of the attachment point to a higher point on the damper, it increases effective angle between the link and the antisway bar to give greater stiffness, similar to changing the position of the attachment on an adjustable sway bar.

Any opinions?

 

while you can get that deep into it if you like the main concern is to get a good range of sway adjustability with links that won't break...any of the adjustable drop links offered by RSS, GMG, ERP, Tarett, TRG will get the job done without moving the attachment point...they also all have the added benefit of releasing any sway bar preload, which makes them easier to adjust at the track (you should do the rear too)

 

Thanks for the comments, Chuck.

So...not worth the extra cost? (Setup pictured above is offered by Tarett, about twice the price of a standard drop link.) The only reason I'm considering it is because my front sways are not adjustable (stock.) I left them softer up front to help with the understeer, but I may be over thinking...

 

well, if you stiffen up the front with those links you know what will happen...it will defeat some of the front softening you did and you will have more understeer...since you are already full stiff in the rear that would not be a good thing...if you have a solid mounting point (no plastic) for Ira's regular drop links they will be fine

 

Standard links it is, then. Thanks.

 

had the same problem so I switched to RSS drop links in the front set on soft. No issues and no noise. My rears are set on stiff.

 

I agree with Chuck. The sway bar is adjustable and the precise drop link mounting point is less important than a solid mount. My cheap plastic Bilstein drop links broke a couple of months ago.

I purchased the RSS drop links and was mistakenly sent the 996TT version which are curved rather than straight (you do not need the curve with the Bilstein B16's but some manufactures are just recycling their 996TT designs). Bryan@RSS was great - he manufactured a set of adjustable drop links that were straight and sent them to me (and NeilM). The RSS drop links are nice but they kept loosening at the adjustment, probably because my local installer failed to use thread-lock.

At this point I was fed up that such simple part was causing so much hassle. I didn't need adjustable drop links because the sway bar adjusts. I just needed something that would work and not require continued maintenance. SharkWerks to the rescue! SharkWerks made me a set of non-adjustable, rock-solid, drop links that took care of the issue. Personally, I would call SharkWerks and see if they will make you set.

My RSS sways are set at medium-medium and with my alignment, I am pretty neutral with modest throttle and well controlled oversteer with additional throttle. There are lots of ways to get to where you want between the sways and alignment settings. The folks who are still stock, don't know just how good the car can be.

 

I remember the photos you provided when you replaced your links and had wondered why you went with curved front links...lol...they were for the 996TT. I thought I was going crazy.

Could I ask you to take a photo of what your new links look like? I think I may give Alex a call.

 

Bilstein (P.O.S.)


RSS 996TT (wrong)


RSS 997TT (loose again in this photo)


SharkLinks (the definitive solution)

 

sparkhill,

The SharkLink does not look like the rod end type (Heim joint) that's all metallic; it looks like the plastic bushing similar to that of the stock drop link?
If so, are you using the same type -- plastic bushing -- front AND rear?

Reason I asked: Because the metallic Heim joint increases the effect of sway bar (both how strong and how fast -- there is no "give"), may not be a good idea to mix them?

 

Bob,

Very interesting.

If you are ordering from Tarett, ask for 2 extra bushings that are thinner than the ones Tarett sends out (see enclosed picture). They may come in handy depending on which hole you end up using.

I recall the front is not problematic, but the rear, depending on which hole you use, may contort the link from the desirable straight up and down position. If you don't already know, you'll see what I mean when the car is up. The thinner ones are better as shown in the picture below.
My tuner also mentions something to the effect (I don't remember anymore) that you want force to be applied closer to the mounting point, perhaps less risk of bending/breaking the bolt, and therefore with certain position the thin one is better.

One thing I forgot to mention re. the non-adjustable SharkLink, that you probably already know, is that if you want to corner balance, the adjustable link might be necessary.

FWIW, I have played with nearly all positions and went back and forth between the 2 types. The metallic drop links definitely make the car feel more planted, less rubbery/bouncy, but also bring noise and harshness. The rear one in particular is intolerable in the full stiff position with my GMG sway. I am actually trying out the stock drop link now, again -- rubbery yes but you do get used to it. But... no question if I were to track the car, I would install the metallic rod end link.

BTW, stock front sway bar and GT2 rear sway -- is that what RUF recommends?

 

Many thanks for your input.

Ruf doesn't really make too may recommendations. Much of what I did was based on some reading, research, and trial and error. I know that the front stock sway is pretty soft...and my biggest complaint has been understeer. It didn't make sense to me to spend money on a front sway and tighten it, if tightening the rear was my best way to correct the understeer. I know a lot of guys in my area that did front and rear sways, but if you ask them what their preferred settings are, it is consistently soft up front, stiff or medium in the back. I just couldn't figure out what the advantage is to swap the front sway if my biggest complaint was understeer.

That being said, Chuck made a good point...spending additional cash for tighting up the front geometry will work against what I'm trying to achieve.

 

Yes Chuck brings up a very good point. Even if you are replacing both front and rear drop links and therefore increase stiffness "equally," I think in the end you WILL have to back off on the rear because Tarett plus stiff hole in rear is an entirely intolerable combination. Therefore overall front will be stiffer after change.
Well at least the Bilstein link is replaceable by lifetime warranty, I think.

While we are on this topic, one effect that I don't see mentioned is that the stiffer front sway bar does tighten that steering feel and response. Shuffle the steering back and forth on freeway: with stiffer sway bar, the response is quicker and tighter.

 

I'm running the Tarred and the middle setting in the rear, and the TRG front set to the softest setting. I'm also running the Bilsteins at stiffest setting in the rear and 2 clicks from full stiff up front.

And I personally don't think the Sharkwerks part is the "Definative" solution. It looks like a beefed up stock, non-servicable part, which is part of the benefit of the aftermarket links. Nothing against Sharky and bravo to him for "supporting you", but that particular part isn't what I'd want on my car.

I also agree that by spending the extra on the Tarred relocator for the pickup point, you're not really getting a lot of benefit. Softening the front for more mechanical grip, along with a very well balanced alignment will help, alot.

Mike

 

While I am not as guru as others, I have been happy with Agency Power links in my 996TT. I have them front and rear. JIC's and stockers were a joke IMHO.

NO issues to date. Big, beefy. I run JIC 8/12 cross's, h&r sways and a modified gt2 corner balance for tire life preservation on the street. I am not getting anything from Dan to post this...just happy with things.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/a...o-p-47974.html



Jeff