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Calling cannga...possible solution to "the click"?

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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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Calling cannga...possible solution to "the click"?

C...what do you think? Pic A versus Pic B...

Pic A - outboard



Pic B - inboard
 

Last edited by bbywu; Mar 27, 2010 at 06:28 PM.
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 11:32 AM
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Great investigative work. Did you actually swtich them and the inboard "clicked" on hard turn while the outboard didn't?
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TTdude
Great investigative work. Did you actually swtich them and the inboard "clicked" on hard turn while the outboard didn't?
I did...and what I found was when I switched one side, the other side clicked loudly almost like a twang...when I switched both sides..I got silence.

I'm not sure if this is the solution for everyone...my front sway is stock. From cannga's previous photos, his GMG sway clears with greater distance, so I doubt his is rubbing up against the drop link.

Geometrically, you'd prefer to have a drop parallel with the damper. I think the Bilstein drop link popped because it is weak and the torque on the pivot point forced the plastic to pop out. With steel ends, I doubt that would be the problem for the Taretts.

- bob
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bbywu
I did...and what I found was when I switched one side, the other side clicked loudly almost like a twang...when I switched both sides..I got silence.

I'm not sure if this is the solution for everyone...my front sway is stock. From cannga's previous photos, his GMG sway clears with greater distance, so I doubt his is rubbing up against the drop link.

Geometrically, you'd prefer to have a drop parallel with the damper. I think the Bilstein drop link popped because it is weak and the torque on the pivot point forced the plastic to pop out. With steel ends, I doubt that would be the problem for the Taretts.

- bob

the bstein dlinks pop mainly due to to the plastic ends and also due to the geometry being off.
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 06:28 PM
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Ha ha Bob, great detective work as usual. But clearly for this question I have to defer to eclou and NeilM; I think those are the 2 who have done the actual installation themselves. I have not been around a lot when installation is done in my car -- and the easiest way to see the problem is on the lift. (Neil's reaction to DIY suspension installation always gives me a chuckle btw. Something to the effect of "people I've done this installation, and my advice is, don't even think about it" .)

One comment I would like to add is the angle of connection is different depending on your steering angle. Since most people hear the click at severe steering angle, that would be where I would analyze the picture.

Also, unfortunately because we are mixing and matching components, I am afraid the only way to test is to do what you did, try different combination and see what happens.

Also, for those with Tarett: Remember all those cone shape washers have different thickness and you could mix and/or use them as appropriate to get rick of the click, or to have the straightest connection, or what have you. All you have to do is call and Tarett will send them to you. This is one reason why I recommend Tarett drop links.
 

Last edited by cannga; Mar 27, 2010 at 06:32 PM.
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 06:32 PM
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I tried every combination to create clearance between the drop link and the wheel carrier...no matter what I do, the position of the mounts for the stock front sway causes the thicker drop link to bump against the link when you turn the steering wheel when you put the drop link on the outboard position.

For me...this appears to be the click. My setup: Damptronics, stock front sway, Taretts.
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 06:33 PM
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Bob, does it click with the Bilstein link? And it clicks only a severe steering angle?
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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It clicked only a extreme angle, when going slowly. Now that I changed outboard to inboard, the click seems to have gone away...granted, I lubed EVERYTHING...There was definitely a clearance problem with outboard.
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Do you think using a thicker cone washer or longer bolt will push the drop link out enough in the outboard position so it won't click?

Well, at least you are safe with Tarett because it won't pop at either position.
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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I'll call Tarett on Monday as see if they can send me a few additional washers...I'll mix and match them to see if I can get it lined up better, but from the angle, my guess is the end of the drop link needs to be very very close to the outboard side of the sway to prevent rubbing against the wheel carriage. I'm already on the thinnest washer.

Maybe I need to spend more money and buy a real front sway...
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bbywu
I'll call Tarett on Monday as see if they can send me a few additional washers...I'll mix and match them to see if I can get it lined up better, but from the angle, my guess is the end of the drop link needs to be very very close to the outboard side of the sway to prevent rubbing against the wheel carriage. I'm already on the thinnest washer.

Maybe I need to spend more money and buy a real front sway...
Bob - I have not experienced your particular situation in which aftermarket dlinks are mated with oem sways. Based on your pics and info however, I have a slight inclination that the angles of aftermarket adjustable sways at ends are just a tad different from that of oem sways. Furthermore, my hypothesis is that the Tarett dlinks are made to be married to aftermarket sways...just a hunch.

I'd be very interested to hear what Tarett says about my hunch.

On a bigger picture, Bilstein needs to own up to this and re-work their own dlinks' geometry(and build quality) so folks like us don't have to go through this shimmy-shammy guessing game of musical drop links. PITA!

Sparkhill and I have been bitten too many times on this same issue in the past and yet, Bilstein disowns any fault.

At the end, you may end up having to upgrade your sways which to me is just a band aid to the situation.
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by NeilM
Bob - I have not experienced your particular situation in which aftermarket dlinks are mated with oem sways. Based on your pics and info however, I have a slight inclination that the angles of aftermarket adjustable sways at ends are just a tad different from that of oem sways. Furthermore, my hypothesis is that the Tarett dlinks are made to be married to aftermarket sways...just a hunch.

I'd be very interested to hear what Tarett says about my hunch.

On a bigger picture, Bilstein needs to own up to this and re-work their own dlinks' geometry(and build quality) so folks like us don't have to go through this shimmy-shammy guessing game of musical drop links. PITA!

Sparkhill and I have been bitten too many times on this same issue in the past and yet, Bilstein disowns any fault.

At the end, you may end up having to upgrade your sways which to me is just a band aid to the situation.
Looking at the pics between mine and cannga's, I think you are absolutely correct. The GMG sways are shorter in overall length (wingspan) and gives better clearance.
 
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 09:16 PM
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Ultimate solution:
 
Old Mar 28, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by bbywu
I'll call Tarett on Monday as see if they can send me a few additional washers...I'll mix and match them to see if I can get it lined up better, but from the angle, my guess is the end of the drop link needs to be very very close to the outboard side of the sway to prevent rubbing against the wheel carriage. I'm already on the thinnest washer.

Maybe I need to spend more money and buy a real front sway...
LOL. I completely forgot this important point -- your sway bar is the stock unit?

Neil and Bob, a few more posts on this thread and you guys are gonna set up another Bilstein panick wave on 6speed. Neil? ok, but bbywu? Forum moderator? Bad... bad... bad... J/K.
 
Old Mar 28, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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I guess I just need to trade in my turbo for a Carrera GT.
 

Last edited by bbywu; Mar 28, 2010 at 08:47 PM.


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