What is a ballpark estimate to get lowering springs installed (if I already have the springs), so just labor. I am just curious to know roughly what I should be looking for (indy shop, not dealer, but a good indy shop)

 

It books for 6-8 hrs of labor...I got a hook up and won't even tell you the price I got!

 

Also, what about a DIY?

I've installed coilovers on cars in the past (my old M Roadster for example) without an issue. How complex is the lowering spring install?

 

You could do it...It's a lot of work....You have to take apart the inside of the car....I know they worked on it for a good 6 hrs straight...You would also need something to compress the springs off...

 

Well, I live in michigan, so come this winter, time with the car out of commission won't be a problem.

Unless it takes me 6 months. :-D

I may go this route. I'm sure at the least I can take the shocks and springs to a local shop in the winter and they will charge me a little to swap the shocks. I think I'll go the DIY route. Anyone have a writup?

 

I'm pretty happy with my springs...At first they were bouncy but after a week they settled in pretty good...Can't complain since everything cost me less than $500

 

I typically charge 4 hours for just spring install plus alignment.

 

There is a sticky on the top of the forum here for DIYs.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...sche-911s.html

 

Too bad you're not up here in MI, considering it's your springs that I'm currently considering.

 

A spring install requires you to compress the OEM springs for removal and the lowering springs for install. This should be done with the proper tool as loaded springs can be VERY dangerous.

The rear is pretty straight forward other than the requirement to take a part some of interior but there are only really the three nuts up top and the large bolt at the bottom.

The front requires you to pretty much remove the entire upright (bearing carrier). You'll need to bleed the brakes because you're disconnecting the caliper and align the car afterwords.

Depending on your alignment spec before you lower it, you MAY need to have the car trailered or towed to the garage to align it. You don't really know how scary a car with a ton of toe is until you've tried to drive it. It'll be all over the road.

So, here's the brake down:

1.5-2 hrs for the rears
2-3 hrs for the fronts
.5 to bleed the brakes (might as well do them all)
1.5-2 hrs to align the car

You may also need an impact wrench to pop off the nut on the struts without spinning the whole mount. If you don't have a torque wrench, you should get one, and lastly, if you end up needing to remove the tie rod/ball joint (requires a Porsche tool or an air chisle with flat head).

It's probably an 7.5/10 for difficulty. Tools will be the key.

Expect to spend twice as long if it's your first time tackling this problem.

 

Don't have a spring compressor, but have all other needed tools (impacts, torque, etc) I don't really trust the rented spring compressors that much (autozone rentals...) but if they can be used here, let me know.

As far as alignment, No, I do know how scary a car with too much toe is, it would of course be 'rough aligned' in the garage and then taken to get aligned at a shop. I align my formula ford myself using strings, I can't imagine a 'get me to the shop' alignment would be that much more difficult on the 911, unless someone tells me otherwise (speak now if so)

 

Road trip to Kansas!

Ok, lets not make this more difficult than it has to be.

There is zero need to disconnect any brakes or axles. Remove 3 upper 13mm nuts, disconnect the sway bar, disconnect the tie rod, pop the carrier off the ball joint, loosen the control arm mount so it can pivot down, move suspension assembly to the front of the control arm, pivot strut out the rear of the wheel well, pull strut out of carrier.....

You do not need to compress the springs on any 996/997. The springs will only expand very little over the compressed state, so don't bother with spring compressors. Just expect them to pop slightly once you take the nut off, so don't have your hands in between the springs or anything like that...you might get a bruise if you do, lol. Some cars definitely do need spring compressors, but not for this application. I did a buddy's Lexus RX330 the other day......flight time of the strut was about 3.5 seconds when i popped off the top nut with the impact, hehe.

For the PASM cars, you can't use an impact on the top anyway because of the PASM wire coming out the top of the strut. A simple wrench will do

 

****, you're way ahead of the game if you've got all those tools and can do a basic string alignment. Most people have a hard time conceptualizing the different axis of alignment but you'll be fine.

I'd just remove the struts and take them to a shop. Pay them $50-100 and have them install the lowering springs on the shock. That deals with most of the true headaches.

 

I've had a similar flight experience on a snow plow spring of an H1 hummer. They had to be compressed because there was not enough movement of the lower arm to get the spring out of the perch. Ratchet straps were used. We put it in a fire to burn off the ratchet strap since no one wanted to release or cut it. When it melted through the strap.. wow..

 

Not that I dont trust you, but can anyone else confirm this. I would not like to be firsthand to find out that you were wrong, no offense. HAHAHA