Help pls: How best to turn off TPMS low press alarm, Durametric?
#16
I recently drove a friend's GT3RS with those very same "cup" tires in pouring rain from ORP (Oregon Raceway Park) back to Seattle and man...that was a loonnnnnnnnggg drive so yes, Can, I definitely concur with you on that.
#17
I am not sure at all but I think I *might* have found a solution to this low pressure alarm: I have recently set my tire to "Winter" (even though they are not; they are Pirelli Corsa cup tires) and for whatever reason, -4 on the differential reading does NOT seem to trigger the alarm any more.
There might be an explanation why this works: Because Winter tire setting implies extreme low temp reading and therefore, extreme low pressure reading (Charles law for the chem major out there LOL), perhaps the engineers allow more tolerance of low pressure before alarm is triggered?
Again, the TPMS has got to be the most temperamental/*****y device in the Turbo, and therefore I am not sure at all if my observation is going to hold. This is just a "work in progress" report in case anyone wants to try.
There might be an explanation why this works: Because Winter tire setting implies extreme low temp reading and therefore, extreme low pressure reading (Charles law for the chem major out there LOL), perhaps the engineers allow more tolerance of low pressure before alarm is triggered?
Again, the TPMS has got to be the most temperamental/*****y device in the Turbo, and therefore I am not sure at all if my observation is going to hold. This is just a "work in progress" report in case anyone wants to try.
Last edited by cannga; 12-31-2010 at 02:04 PM.
#18
Cann are you sure of your cup tire pressures at 32 hot? I used to run my mich pilot sport cups at 32 hot until one day the head Mich tire tech asked me at the track (after him asking me about my tire wear) what my pressures were. I said i was running them at the 32 hot max as per what most of the guys with 18's were. He was quick to point out that 32 was way too low for 19" cups and that they should be at no less than 35 hot up to 38. He said lower than 35 will cause too much sidewall roll hence my tires wearing a bit too much on the outer edges. He said i should aim to get up to 38 hot and it will improve the handling and tire wear out of sight. After the tech resetting them to @38 hot the car handled heaps better through the corners....i wish i knew that before. My previous set of 19 cups copped a flogging at 32 and didn't last or handle nearly as good now they are set at the 38 hot. He said 18"s are a different story altogether and how most guys make the same mistake of setting the 19" cups too low at 30 to 32. He said so few folk know of this fact and most owners just ask other track heads who always say 32 is right. Anyway, i know this is someway off topic but it may help you get a lot more life and performance out of your tires and go toward stopping your low pressure warning happening as much. I see you have the Corsas but i'd phone up Pirreli and speak with one of the tech's (not your tire dealer) to check on the correct pressures for track and street use. I'm sure you'll find you are running them too low. Additionally, you are using them for street use right? So that being the case you are going to be hard pressed ever getting them up to the same temps you'll produce at the track. Any Canyon driving would have to be seriosly full on to produce track temps too. Whenever i have my track cup rims on and leave them on for a few days after, when i leave the track i alway just set them to the same pressures as the PS2's, 37 F 44 rear hot and all is totally fine. Check it out..
Last edited by speed21; 12-31-2010 at 11:10 PM.
#19
^ very true, 'hot' at the track is completely different than any street situation. When I come off after a run, the rubber is literally melting at places. In fact, I'll come into pit row after about 6 hard laps to check tire pressure and temps across the tread with a pyrometer. That's the only way to set track pressures. I find my car turns the fastest laps at 33-35 hot on a long track, 31 on a short technical track. For pure street use, ps2s are probably a better bet. if you never really heat them up on the track, you'll never see the benefit of cups imo. On the street, I seldom run my cups below 35-37, corsas could be a different story, as I've only had one set on my car and didn't care for them at all.
Last edited by TT Surgeon; 12-31-2010 at 11:41 PM.
#20
^ very true, 'hot' at the track is completely different than any street situation. When I come off after a run, the rubber is literally melting at places. In fact, I'll come into pit row after about 6 hard laps to check tire pressure and temps across the tread with a pyrometer. That's the only way to set track pressures. I find my car turns the fastest laps at 33-35 hot on a long track, 31 on a short technical track. For pure street use, ps2s are probably a better bet. if you never really heat them up on the track, you'll never see the benefit of cups imo. On the street, I seldom run my cups below 35-37, corsas could be a different story, as I've only had one set on my car and didn't care for them at all.
Last edited by speed21; 01-01-2011 at 05:51 PM.
#21
Will do, those #s are based off my pyrometer readings, usually the most even temps across the tread are at those pressures. However, what you say makes sense on a 19 rim. Agree, one will never see the real benefit of cups in a street only application. I run cups pretty much year round, of course snows are up now. Does it make the most $$ sense, prolly not, but I gots da scratch!
#22
Will do, those #s are based off my pyrometer readings, usually the most even temps across the tread are at those pressures. However, what you say makes sense on a 19 rim. Agree, one will never see the real benefit of cups in a street only application. I run cups pretty much year round, of course snows are up now. Does it make the most $$ sense, prolly not, but I gots da scratch!
#23
Hi Paul, thanks for your valuable input and happy New Year.
For track tire discussion, if you don't know already I would highly recommend the GT3 rennlist forum www.rennlist.com . There are guys there with true encyclopedic knowledge and whom I would trust very much; that's the forum I visit for search and advice. BTW, I believe Hoosier on 18 is one of the common choices.
For street, I assume the question is, are R compounds of benefit? The answer is it depends, on two things, how fast you are driving obviously, and how stiff the suspension is. One thing that I would like to emphasize that I don't think has been discussed here, is the most critical issue of tire and suspension matching. The key to remember here is that my car has a very stiff suspension, much stiffer than yours for example. Keep in mind also that my discussion is related to the speed and style of canyon driving, with 40-70 mph corners for example, NOT the sweeping 100 mph large radius curves at track venues.
1. In a softly sprung car, cornering speed (again in tight curves of street) is limited by body roll due to the rather soft stock springs. In other words, at least for me, the tire adhesion of Michelin Pilor Sport is more than enough for the speed that the stock suspension allows you to carry in any given corner -- the car rolls too much and limits your cornering speed. It is not necessarily a good idea to use R compound tires on the soft suspension of the stock car.
There was an interview of Walter what his name in which he went over this. The key to this issue is related to the construction of R compound tire. And that is, while R compound has soft rubber, it has very stiff side wall. When you match a stiff tire to a soft suspension, what happens is when you enter the corner at the now higher speed that the stiff springs allow, the stiff tire does not give and all of the high(er) cornering force "overloads" (I believe this is the word he used) the soft spring.
(Having said all of this, R compound tires will increase time at the track even with soft suspension, it's not just optimal. It is said that it's worth 5 seconds at the 'ring when one switches from PS2 to R compound. That's a life time of difference.)
2. In a stiffer car, as cornering speed now increases, the adhesion of the tire will be tested, depending on how fast you are pushing any given corner. And it doesn't have to be higher speed either, if you take a 40 mph corner at 60 mph, the test on adhesion is not any less than taking a 130 mph curve at 100 mph. Meaning, you will break traction in the former, not latter.
Sorry for my interminable rambling. It's necessary to answer the question of who and how one could see the benefit of R compound. The answer as mentioned is it depends on a. how stiff your car is, and b. not how fast, but how faster you are than you should be in any given corner.
Bottom line is, not for Paul of course, but for those with stiffer springs in your car and who have never had cup tires, it's a remarkable transformation for those curvy roads that beckon at "weekend" speed LOL. The car his held down as if by the hands of God and I believe it will be an eye opening experience for many who try (I once was very skeptical too, believe me.). Just be extremely careful when it's wet and during the first 10 minutes of driving.
For track tire discussion, if you don't know already I would highly recommend the GT3 rennlist forum www.rennlist.com . There are guys there with true encyclopedic knowledge and whom I would trust very much; that's the forum I visit for search and advice. BTW, I believe Hoosier on 18 is one of the common choices.
For street, I assume the question is, are R compounds of benefit? The answer is it depends, on two things, how fast you are driving obviously, and how stiff the suspension is. One thing that I would like to emphasize that I don't think has been discussed here, is the most critical issue of tire and suspension matching. The key to remember here is that my car has a very stiff suspension, much stiffer than yours for example. Keep in mind also that my discussion is related to the speed and style of canyon driving, with 40-70 mph corners for example, NOT the sweeping 100 mph large radius curves at track venues.
1. In a softly sprung car, cornering speed (again in tight curves of street) is limited by body roll due to the rather soft stock springs. In other words, at least for me, the tire adhesion of Michelin Pilor Sport is more than enough for the speed that the stock suspension allows you to carry in any given corner -- the car rolls too much and limits your cornering speed. It is not necessarily a good idea to use R compound tires on the soft suspension of the stock car.
There was an interview of Walter what his name in which he went over this. The key to this issue is related to the construction of R compound tire. And that is, while R compound has soft rubber, it has very stiff side wall. When you match a stiff tire to a soft suspension, what happens is when you enter the corner at the now higher speed that the stiff springs allow, the stiff tire does not give and all of the high(er) cornering force "overloads" (I believe this is the word he used) the soft spring.
(Having said all of this, R compound tires will increase time at the track even with soft suspension, it's not just optimal. It is said that it's worth 5 seconds at the 'ring when one switches from PS2 to R compound. That's a life time of difference.)
2. In a stiffer car, as cornering speed now increases, the adhesion of the tire will be tested, depending on how fast you are pushing any given corner. And it doesn't have to be higher speed either, if you take a 40 mph corner at 60 mph, the test on adhesion is not any less than taking a 130 mph curve at 100 mph. Meaning, you will break traction in the former, not latter.
Sorry for my interminable rambling. It's necessary to answer the question of who and how one could see the benefit of R compound. The answer as mentioned is it depends on a. how stiff your car is, and b. not how fast, but how faster you are than you should be in any given corner.
Bottom line is, not for Paul of course, but for those with stiffer springs in your car and who have never had cup tires, it's a remarkable transformation for those curvy roads that beckon at "weekend" speed LOL. The car his held down as if by the hands of God and I believe it will be an eye opening experience for many who try (I once was very skeptical too, believe me.). Just be extremely careful when it's wet and during the first 10 minutes of driving.
Last edited by cannga; 01-01-2011 at 01:34 PM.
#24
Re. pressure for track use, what you say could well be true, but again, I would bring that discussion to rennlist's GT3 forum. A lot of trustworthy experience there!
For street use, I am quite confident of my observation & could only report what works best for me (YMMV, depends on car, setup, etc.): I *try* not to let the tires go over 32/36 hot, for street, and when the driving gets serious, would stop occasionally to bleed off as needed. Above this 32/36, I don't feel that traction is optimal. I cannot find the chart now but I believe this is as recommended by manufacturer, and of course confirmed by the people whose advice I seek.
For street use, I am quite confident of my observation & could only report what works best for me (YMMV, depends on car, setup, etc.): I *try* not to let the tires go over 32/36 hot, for street, and when the driving gets serious, would stop occasionally to bleed off as needed. Above this 32/36, I don't feel that traction is optimal. I cannot find the chart now but I believe this is as recommended by manufacturer, and of course confirmed by the people whose advice I seek.
Last edited by cannga; 01-01-2011 at 01:46 PM.
#25
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Hi Paul, thanks for your valuable input and happy New Year.
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For track tire discussion, if you don't know already I would highly recommend the GT3 rennlist forum [URL="http://www.rennlist.com"]www.rennlist.com[/URL] . There are guys there with true encyclopedic knowledge and whom I would trust very much; that's the forum I visit for search and advice. BTW, I believe Hoosier on 18 is one of the common choices.
And on the 18's i totally agree they seem to be the choice over 19's for the die hard guys.
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For street, I assume the question is, are R compounds of benefit? The answer is it depends, on two things, how fast you are driving obviously, and [B]how stiff the suspension is.[/B] One thing that I would like to emphasize that I don't think has been discussed here, [B]is the most critical issue of tire and suspension matching[/B]. The key to remember here is that my car has a very stiff suspension, much stiffer than yours for example.
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Keep in mind also that my discussion is related to the speed and style of canyon driving, with 40-70 mph corners for example, NOT the sweeping 100 mph large radius curves at track venues.
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[B]1. In a softly sprung car[/B], cornering speed (again in tight curves of street) is limited by body roll due to the rather soft stock springs. In other words, at least for me, the tire adhesion of Michelin Pilor Sport is more than enough for the speed that the stock suspension allows you to carry in any given corner -- the car rolls too much and limits your cornering speed. It is not necessarily a good idea to use R compound tires on the soft suspension of the stock car.
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There was an interview of Walter what his name in which he went over this. The key to this issue is related to the construction of R compound tire. And that is, while R compound has soft rubber, it has very stiff side wall. When you match a stiff tire to a soft suspension, what happens is when you enter the corner at the now higher speed that the stiff springs allow,[B] the stiff tire does not give and all of the high(er) cornering force "overloads" (I believe this is the word he used) the soft spring.
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(Having said all of this, R compound tires will increase time at the track even with soft suspension, it's not just optimal. It is said that it's worth 5 seconds at the 'ring when one switches from PS2 to R compound. That's a life time of difference.)
[B]2. In a stiffer car,[/B] as cornering speed now increases, the adhesion of the tire will be tested, depending on how fast you are pushing any given corner. [B]And it doesn't have to be higher speed either,[/B] if you take a 40 mph corner at 60 mph, the test on adhesion is not any less than taking a 130 mph curve at 100 mph. Meaning, you will break traction in the former, not latter.
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Sorry for my interminable rambling. :o It's necessary to answer the question of who and how one could see the benefit of R compound. [B]The answer as mentioned is it depends on a. how stiff your car is, and b. not how fast, but how faster you are than you should be :eek::) in any given corner. [/B]
Bottom line is, not for Paul of course, but for those with stiffer springs in your car and who have never had cup tires, it's a remarkable transformation for those curvy roads that beckon at "weekend" speed LOL. The car his held down as if by the hands of God and I believe it will be an eye opening experience for many who try (I once was very skeptical too, believe me.). Just be extremely careful when it's wet and during the first 10 minutes of driving.
Cheers
Paul
#26
Re. pressure for track use, what you say could well be true, but again, I would bring that discussion to rennlist's GT3 forum. A lot of trustworthy experience there!
For street use, I am quite confident of my observation & could only report what works best for me (YMMV, depends on car, setup, etc.): I *try* not to let the tires go over 32/36 hot, for street, and when the driving gets serious, would stop occasionally to bleed off as needed. Above this 32/36, I don't feel that traction is optimal. I cannot find the chart now but I believe this is as recommended by manufacturer, and of course confirmed by the people whose advice I seek.
For street use, I am quite confident of my observation & could only report what works best for me (YMMV, depends on car, setup, etc.): I *try* not to let the tires go over 32/36 hot, for street, and when the driving gets serious, would stop occasionally to bleed off as needed. Above this 32/36, I don't feel that traction is optimal. I cannot find the chart now but I believe this is as recommended by manufacturer, and of course confirmed by the people whose advice I seek.
#27
BTW, when I iron out the details/possible misunderstanding, we agree on a lot of points, just expressing it differently. One example: Yes all my reference to soft Turbo suspension is in the normal setting, and I understand immediately and agree when you mention that the Firm is a good match for the stiff tire. That said, there is a reason that I had assumed the Normal setting is the only one worth using in the Turbo:
The Firm suspension of PASM gen 1 in the Turbo has drawn criticism from a number of (good) reviewers, tuners, and users from its very beginning. It achieves stiffness the wrong way: because of the inherently soft spring rate, stiffness was achieved by jacking damping rate to very high level. (Stiffness is much better done by stiffer spring and then matched damping, not just jacking up the damping.) The result is a very harsh and very jittery firmness. The ride is almost bone-jarring, besides the nervousness, to the point that I think the Firm setting is unusable unless for perfect glass smooth surface -- not the intention of a Turbo. Gen 2 PASM's change was acknowledged in reviews and interviews at the time of gen 2 Turbo release, and is much improved over gen 1. If you have a chance, test driver a gen 2 and you'll see what I mean. PASM Firm in gen. 2 Turbo is also firm, but much more compliant, a significant improvement over gen 1.
BTW, I know you migh not agree with what I write now about stock Turbo suspension and PASM gen 1 (at best a work in progress, at worst a design flaw), but given your mod oriented history of track usage/Bilstein and your knowledge of suspension tuning and what it does, I will wager a (friendly) bet that by this time next year, the stock suspension or spring will be gone from your car.
Last edited by cannga; 01-02-2011 at 09:37 AM.
#28
Paul, another example of us talking apple and orange, even though we might be saying the same thing: When you wrote 38, you meant pressure on the rear tire, didn't you? When I wrote 32, I was talking about the front tire! 32 front/36 rear.
And yes, no argument that track usage is a world apart. Just think of the fried PCCB's at the track: "Never" happens on street driving.
The forum I mentioned was www.rennlist.com , not the other renn -- the GT3 section only (Turbo is at best so so). That GT3 section is the only Porsche forum that I don't post, but lurk often. And yes serious and trustworthy track knowledge -- for example your point of running 38 cup tire would generate a ton of agreements, or counterpoints, there I am sure. (And so will my post on matching tire to suspension, etc.)
Yes it was Walter Rohrl I was talking about. Despite of the rumors - ha ha - most of what I write does not come out of thin air; but mere repetitions of extensive web research - grin. He mentioned tire/spring matching when he was talking either about the 997.2 Turbo suspension and/or about the street GT3 that they were going to race at the 'ring last year. As soon as they decided to use stiffer tire - cup to slick I believe? - in the car, they changed the spring specifically for the tire.
And yes, no argument that track usage is a world apart. Just think of the fried PCCB's at the track: "Never" happens on street driving.
The forum I mentioned was www.rennlist.com , not the other renn -- the GT3 section only (Turbo is at best so so). That GT3 section is the only Porsche forum that I don't post, but lurk often. And yes serious and trustworthy track knowledge -- for example your point of running 38 cup tire would generate a ton of agreements, or counterpoints, there I am sure. (And so will my post on matching tire to suspension, etc.)
Yes it was Walter Rohrl I was talking about. Despite of the rumors - ha ha - most of what I write does not come out of thin air; but mere repetitions of extensive web research - grin. He mentioned tire/spring matching when he was talking either about the 997.2 Turbo suspension and/or about the street GT3 that they were going to race at the 'ring last year. As soon as they decided to use stiffer tire - cup to slick I believe? - in the car, they changed the spring specifically for the tire.
Last edited by cannga; 01-02-2011 at 09:32 AM.
#29
This is actually much related to my discussion of matching tire to suspension. For the same reason that you don't want to put stiff wall tire into a soft suspension, you don't necessarily want to put soft tire on a GT3. While this could be done (and I don't mean to be critical - I'm sure said GT3 owners are aware, just discussing here because it's relevant), even after acknowledging that it's an "planned" compromise, it's still a bad idea. The higher cornering speed of a GT3 will cause tire wall deformity, so for the short time the tires will be more useful in the rain, the owners are willing to sacrifice the very function of the GT3? (Use a different car is a much better idea.)
Its probably not the best idea if your driving flat out but the guy i specifically spoke to said he used slicks on the track and just wanted his car to be more user friendly in all conditions during DD use. Im sure if he pushed the car to the limit during street use there would be a trade off but lets face it how often would that ever happen.
BTW, when I iron out the details/possible misunderstanding, we agree on a lot of points, just expressing it differently. One example: Yes all my reference to soft Turbo suspension is in the normal setting, and I understand immediately and agree when you mention that the Firm is a good match for the stiff tire. That said, there is a reason that I had assumed the Normal setting is the only one worth using in the Turbo:
For general traffic use while not pushing too hard near the limit normal is usually used...correct. But its nice to have the comfort during those majority moments and the degree of limit you normally operate the car the normal mode setting and stock suspension is fine.
The Firm suspension of PASM gen 1 in the Turbo has drawn criticism from a number of (good) reviewers, tuners, and users from its very beginning.
Yes but the majority of those comments come from very experienced drivers driving the car at the upper limits, usually on a track environment too. For most drivers, pushing a car to test its limits is a minority situation and one which may never even happen for many drivers who simply don't possess that level of skill to even go near those limits. Sometimes having less surety in the hands of the less experienced is a good thing. I've heard it said once you raise the handling limits of a car beyond the capability of the driver you create a situation where the first off/crash will be the last....as the speed will be that much higher again. I think there will always be pluses and minuses in every performance upgrade. Not saying they shouldn't be done....but saying when they are done one does them with full understanding of any shortfalls or misgivings and, within ones own limitations as well.
It achieves stiffness the wrong way: because of the inherently soft spring rate, stiffness was achieved by jacking damping rate to very high level. (Stiffness is much better done by stiffer spring and then matched damping, not just jacking up the damping.) The result is a very harsh and very jittery firmness. The ride is almost bone-jarring, besides the nervousness, to the point that I think the Firm setting is unusable unless for perfect glass smooth surface -- not the intention of a Turbo.
True but in may ways the same could be said for the damptronic coil over firm setting as well. These Firm settings are always best kept for those perfect smooth roads.
Gen 2 PASM's change was acknowledged in reviews and interviews at the time of gen 2 Turbo release, and is much improved over gen 1. If you have a chance, test driver a gen 2 and you'll see what I mean. PASM Firm in gen. 2 Turbo is also firm, but much more compliant, a significant improvement over gen 1.
Can I covered this point in the other thread where i said if i had not been for GTR, P would not have paid so much attention only to then spruce off about it.
Needless to say P never makes any successor worse. As i also said, just wait for 991tt and i will be hearing how bad .2tt is too. Then we will all be crying in our soup.....modded suspension or not .
BTW, I know you might not agree with what I write now about stock Turbo suspension and PASM gen 1 (at best a work in progress, at worst a design flaw), but given your mod oriented history of track usage/Bilstein and your knowledge of suspension tuning and what it does, I will wager a (friendly) bet that by this time next year, the stock suspension or spring will be gone from your car.
Its probably not the best idea if your driving flat out but the guy i specifically spoke to said he used slicks on the track and just wanted his car to be more user friendly in all conditions during DD use. Im sure if he pushed the car to the limit during street use there would be a trade off but lets face it how often would that ever happen.
BTW, when I iron out the details/possible misunderstanding, we agree on a lot of points, just expressing it differently. One example: Yes all my reference to soft Turbo suspension is in the normal setting, and I understand immediately and agree when you mention that the Firm is a good match for the stiff tire. That said, there is a reason that I had assumed the Normal setting is the only one worth using in the Turbo:
For general traffic use while not pushing too hard near the limit normal is usually used...correct. But its nice to have the comfort during those majority moments and the degree of limit you normally operate the car the normal mode setting and stock suspension is fine.
The Firm suspension of PASM gen 1 in the Turbo has drawn criticism from a number of (good) reviewers, tuners, and users from its very beginning.
Yes but the majority of those comments come from very experienced drivers driving the car at the upper limits, usually on a track environment too. For most drivers, pushing a car to test its limits is a minority situation and one which may never even happen for many drivers who simply don't possess that level of skill to even go near those limits. Sometimes having less surety in the hands of the less experienced is a good thing. I've heard it said once you raise the handling limits of a car beyond the capability of the driver you create a situation where the first off/crash will be the last....as the speed will be that much higher again. I think there will always be pluses and minuses in every performance upgrade. Not saying they shouldn't be done....but saying when they are done one does them with full understanding of any shortfalls or misgivings and, within ones own limitations as well.
It achieves stiffness the wrong way: because of the inherently soft spring rate, stiffness was achieved by jacking damping rate to very high level. (Stiffness is much better done by stiffer spring and then matched damping, not just jacking up the damping.) The result is a very harsh and very jittery firmness. The ride is almost bone-jarring, besides the nervousness, to the point that I think the Firm setting is unusable unless for perfect glass smooth surface -- not the intention of a Turbo.
True but in may ways the same could be said for the damptronic coil over firm setting as well. These Firm settings are always best kept for those perfect smooth roads.
Gen 2 PASM's change was acknowledged in reviews and interviews at the time of gen 2 Turbo release, and is much improved over gen 1. If you have a chance, test driver a gen 2 and you'll see what I mean. PASM Firm in gen. 2 Turbo is also firm, but much more compliant, a significant improvement over gen 1.
Can I covered this point in the other thread where i said if i had not been for GTR, P would not have paid so much attention only to then spruce off about it.
Needless to say P never makes any successor worse. As i also said, just wait for 991tt and i will be hearing how bad .2tt is too. Then we will all be crying in our soup.....modded suspension or not .
BTW, I know you might not agree with what I write now about stock Turbo suspension and PASM gen 1 (at best a work in progress, at worst a design flaw), but given your mod oriented history of track usage/Bilstein and your knowledge of suspension tuning and what it does, I will wager a (friendly) bet that by this time next year, the stock suspension or spring will be gone from your car.
#30
Paul, another example of us talking apple and orange, even though we might be saying the same thing: When you wrote 38, you meant pressure on the rear tire, didn't you? When I wrote 32, I was talking about the front tire! 32 front/36 rear.
No. The Michelin guy set it 38 front and rear. I asked why the same front and rear and he said pressures are kept the same front to back. Mind you when i was running 31's and 32's they were always kept the same front and rear as well. I always thought that was odd but everyone was doing it so i had no reason to challenge guys that were more experienced than me. He did say that the front at 38 was good as thats where the load really happens more coming hard under late brakes in high speed corner entry.
And yes, no argument that track usage is a world apart. Just think of the fried PCCB's at the track: "Never" happens on street driving.
Yes. I can just see it all now. Rohrl says to P during a full PCCB changeout....come on guys...whats another set of replacement PCCB's amongst friends . I think thats why the steels will be better for me....and many others. The PCCB's may be better but boy do they cost, and then maintain .
The forum I mentioned was www.rennlist.com , not the other renn -- the GT3 section only (Turbo is at best so so). That GT3 section is the only Porsche forum that I don't post, but lurk often. And yes serious and trustworthy track knowledge -- for example your point of running 38 cup tire would generate a ton of agreements, or counterpoints, there I am sure. (And so will my post on matching tire to suspension, etc.)
Yes well again i go back to the manufacturer knowing what should be best. Opinions are a bit like backsides.....everyone has one. Not saying they should be dismissed or ridiculed but logically there should be no arguing with the maker who has done the real yards in track and street testing on the car using that specific product. I generally prefer to put my money on a given. Mind you i had a lot of expert opinion/users bleeding my tires off to 31 prior too.
Yes it was Walter Rohrl I was talking about. Despite of the rumors - ha ha - most of what I write does not come out of thin air; but mere repetitions of extensive web research - grin. He mentioned tire/spring matching when he was talking either about the 997.2 Turbo suspension and/or about the street GT3 that they were going to race at the 'ring last year. As soon as they decided to use stiffer tire - cup to slick I believe? - in the car, they changed the spring specifically for the tire.
No. The Michelin guy set it 38 front and rear. I asked why the same front and rear and he said pressures are kept the same front to back. Mind you when i was running 31's and 32's they were always kept the same front and rear as well. I always thought that was odd but everyone was doing it so i had no reason to challenge guys that were more experienced than me. He did say that the front at 38 was good as thats where the load really happens more coming hard under late brakes in high speed corner entry.
And yes, no argument that track usage is a world apart. Just think of the fried PCCB's at the track: "Never" happens on street driving.
Yes. I can just see it all now. Rohrl says to P during a full PCCB changeout....come on guys...whats another set of replacement PCCB's amongst friends . I think thats why the steels will be better for me....and many others. The PCCB's may be better but boy do they cost, and then maintain .
The forum I mentioned was www.rennlist.com , not the other renn -- the GT3 section only (Turbo is at best so so). That GT3 section is the only Porsche forum that I don't post, but lurk often. And yes serious and trustworthy track knowledge -- for example your point of running 38 cup tire would generate a ton of agreements, or counterpoints, there I am sure. (And so will my post on matching tire to suspension, etc.)
Yes well again i go back to the manufacturer knowing what should be best. Opinions are a bit like backsides.....everyone has one. Not saying they should be dismissed or ridiculed but logically there should be no arguing with the maker who has done the real yards in track and street testing on the car using that specific product. I generally prefer to put my money on a given. Mind you i had a lot of expert opinion/users bleeding my tires off to 31 prior too.
Yes it was Walter Rohrl I was talking about. Despite of the rumors - ha ha - most of what I write does not come out of thin air; but mere repetitions of extensive web research - grin. He mentioned tire/spring matching when he was talking either about the 997.2 Turbo suspension and/or about the street GT3 that they were going to race at the 'ring last year. As soon as they decided to use stiffer tire - cup to slick I believe? - in the car, they changed the spring specifically for the tire.
Last edited by speed21; 01-03-2011 at 06:12 AM.