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Help pls: How best to turn off TPMS low press alarm, Durametric?

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  #16  
Old 12-18-2010, 09:02 AM
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I recently drove a friend's GT3RS with those very same "cup" tires in pouring rain from ORP (Oregon Raceway Park) back to Seattle and man...that was a loonnnnnnnnggg drive so yes, Can, I definitely concur with you on that.
 
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:07 AM
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I am not sure at all but I think I *might* have found a solution to this low pressure alarm: I have recently set my tire to "Winter" (even though they are not; they are Pirelli Corsa cup tires) and for whatever reason, -4 on the differential reading does NOT seem to trigger the alarm any more.
There might be an explanation why this works: Because Winter tire setting implies extreme low temp reading and therefore, extreme low pressure reading (Charles law for the chem major out there LOL), perhaps the engineers allow more tolerance of low pressure before alarm is triggered?

Again, the TPMS has got to be the most temperamental/*****y device in the Turbo, and therefore I am not sure at all if my observation is going to hold. This is just a "work in progress" report in case anyone wants to try.
 

Last edited by cannga; 12-31-2010 at 02:04 PM.
  #18  
Old 12-31-2010, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cannga
Jason, yes, pretty sure. We're talking about cup tires, which use very low pressure. For example if you now deflate your front tire to 26-27 cold (pressure used in cup tire, for final reading of 32 hot), the alarm will go on regardless of how you reset.
Cann are you sure of your cup tire pressures at 32 hot? I used to run my mich pilot sport cups at 32 hot until one day the head Mich tire tech asked me at the track (after him asking me about my tire wear) what my pressures were. I said i was running them at the 32 hot max as per what most of the guys with 18's were. He was quick to point out that 32 was way too low for 19" cups and that they should be at no less than 35 hot up to 38. He said lower than 35 will cause too much sidewall roll hence my tires wearing a bit too much on the outer edges. He said i should aim to get up to 38 hot and it will improve the handling and tire wear out of sight. After the tech resetting them to @38 hot the car handled heaps better through the corners....i wish i knew that before. My previous set of 19 cups copped a flogging at 32 and didn't last or handle nearly as good now they are set at the 38 hot. He said 18"s are a different story altogether and how most guys make the same mistake of setting the 19" cups too low at 30 to 32. He said so few folk know of this fact and most owners just ask other track heads who always say 32 is right. Anyway, i know this is someway off topic but it may help you get a lot more life and performance out of your tires and go toward stopping your low pressure warning happening as much. I see you have the Corsas but i'd phone up Pirreli and speak with one of the tech's (not your tire dealer) to check on the correct pressures for track and street use. I'm sure you'll find you are running them too low. Additionally, you are using them for street use right? So that being the case you are going to be hard pressed ever getting them up to the same temps you'll produce at the track. Any Canyon driving would have to be seriosly full on to produce track temps too. Whenever i have my track cup rims on and leave them on for a few days after, when i leave the track i alway just set them to the same pressures as the PS2's, 37 F 44 rear hot and all is totally fine. Check it out..
 

Last edited by speed21; 12-31-2010 at 11:10 PM.
  #19  
Old 12-31-2010, 11:37 PM
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^ very true, 'hot' at the track is completely different than any street situation. When I come off after a run, the rubber is literally melting at places. In fact, I'll come into pit row after about 6 hard laps to check tire pressure and temps across the tread with a pyrometer. That's the only way to set track pressures. I find my car turns the fastest laps at 33-35 hot on a long track, 31 on a short technical track. For pure street use, ps2s are probably a better bet. if you never really heat them up on the track, you'll never see the benefit of cups imo. On the street, I seldom run my cups below 35-37, corsas could be a different story, as I've only had one set on my car and didn't care for them at all.
 

Last edited by TT Surgeon; 12-31-2010 at 11:41 PM.
  #20  
Old 12-31-2010, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TT Surgeon
^ very true, 'hot' at the track is completely different than any street situation. When I come off after a run, the rubber is literally melting at places. In fact, I'll come into pit row after about 6 hard laps to check tire pressure and temps across the tread with a pyrometer. That's the only way to set track pressures. I find my car turns the fastest laps at 33-35 hot on a long track, 31 on a short technical track. For pure street use, ps2s are probably a better bet. if you never really heat them up on the track, you'll never see the benefit of cups imo. On the street, I seldom run my cups below 35-37, corsas could be a different story, as I've only had one set on my car and didn't care for them at all.
Yep, at the track the rubber will physically ball off your tires when they get to operating temps and as you say it takes a few pull ins and pressure checks to get em correctly set so they work to optimum. Doubt that will ever happen on canyon runs least of all street use. Thats why it pays to have two sets of rims and tires....one for street and one for track. I fail to see the point of using R cups for general DD street driving (unless you predominately do sporty and aggressive driving). PS2's do a far better job and are quieter, smoother and more compliant, and they are good in the wet too. The r cups on the other hand are well....mostly best kept for the track or weekend thrashes through the canyons . Btw TT if you are running the Mich PS cups id make a call to Michelin and speak with a senior tech who is involved with the track settings for a P. I'll be very surprised if he says run em at 31. Here it was i was doing days for two years before finding out i was too low. Even the P car techs from the dealership who attended some of the days were setting them at 32 and the Mich rep had a chuckle. As he said, Michelin ought to know more than anyone what their tires should be set at...he was a senior guy too. Its worth checking. I'd be interested to hear what the Mich gurus say over your way.
 

Last edited by speed21; 01-01-2011 at 05:51 PM.
  #21  
Old 01-01-2011, 01:15 AM
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Will do, those #s are based off my pyrometer readings, usually the most even temps across the tread are at those pressures. However, what you say makes sense on a 19 rim. Agree, one will never see the real benefit of cups in a street only application. I run cups pretty much year round, of course snows are up now. Does it make the most $$ sense, prolly not, but I gots da scratch!
 
  #22  
Old 01-01-2011, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by TT Surgeon
Will do, those #s are based off my pyrometer readings, usually the most even temps across the tread are at those pressures. However, what you say makes sense on a 19 rim. Agree, one will never see the real benefit of cups in a street only application. I run cups pretty much year round, of course snows are up now. Does it make the most $$ sense, prolly not, but I gots da scratch!
Yeh well don't we all these days . But thats life. And it sounds like you should try a set of slicks if your using a pyro. Guys like me that are still using cups as track rubber are considered novices . No seriously. The guys that push 10 10ths in turbos and GT3'S are ALL using slicks over here. Me, well these days, that is when i get the time... im just happy to have some fun mixing it up on my r cups. Now, as you've got snow and ice to contend with then it sounds like 3 wheel sets are in order... On the bright side there's an opportunity to have three different looks..
 
  #23  
Old 01-01-2011, 09:11 AM
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Hi Paul, thanks for your valuable input and happy New Year.

For track tire discussion, if you don't know already I would highly recommend the GT3 rennlist forum www.rennlist.com . There are guys there with true encyclopedic knowledge and whom I would trust very much; that's the forum I visit for search and advice. BTW, I believe Hoosier on 18 is one of the common choices.

For street, I assume the question is, are R compounds of benefit? The answer is it depends, on two things, how fast you are driving obviously, and how stiff the suspension is. One thing that I would like to emphasize that I don't think has been discussed here, is the most critical issue of tire and suspension matching. The key to remember here is that my car has a very stiff suspension, much stiffer than yours for example. Keep in mind also that my discussion is related to the speed and style of canyon driving, with 40-70 mph corners for example, NOT the sweeping 100 mph large radius curves at track venues.

1. In a softly sprung car, cornering speed (again in tight curves of street) is limited by body roll due to the rather soft stock springs. In other words, at least for me, the tire adhesion of Michelin Pilor Sport is more than enough for the speed that the stock suspension allows you to carry in any given corner -- the car rolls too much and limits your cornering speed. It is not necessarily a good idea to use R compound tires on the soft suspension of the stock car.
There was an interview of Walter what his name in which he went over this. The key to this issue is related to the construction of R compound tire. And that is, while R compound has soft rubber, it has very stiff side wall. When you match a stiff tire to a soft suspension, what happens is when you enter the corner at the now higher speed that the stiff springs allow, the stiff tire does not give and all of the high(er) cornering force "overloads" (I believe this is the word he used) the soft spring.
(Having said all of this, R compound tires will increase time at the track even with soft suspension, it's not just optimal. It is said that it's worth 5 seconds at the 'ring when one switches from PS2 to R compound. That's a life time of difference.)
2. In a stiffer car, as cornering speed now increases, the adhesion of the tire will be tested, depending on how fast you are pushing any given corner. And it doesn't have to be higher speed either, if you take a 40 mph corner at 60 mph, the test on adhesion is not any less than taking a 130 mph curve at 100 mph. Meaning, you will break traction in the former, not latter.

Sorry for my interminable rambling. It's necessary to answer the question of who and how one could see the benefit of R compound. The answer as mentioned is it depends on a. how stiff your car is, and b. not how fast, but how faster you are than you should be in any given corner.
Bottom line is, not for Paul of course, but for those with stiffer springs in your car and who have never had cup tires, it's a remarkable transformation for those curvy roads that beckon at "weekend" speed LOL. The car his held down as if by the hands of God and I believe it will be an eye opening experience for many who try (I once was very skeptical too, believe me.). Just be extremely careful when it's wet and during the first 10 minutes of driving.
 

Last edited by cannga; 01-01-2011 at 01:34 PM.
  #24  
Old 01-01-2011, 09:23 AM
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Re. pressure for track use, what you say could well be true, but again, I would bring that discussion to rennlist's GT3 forum. A lot of trustworthy experience there!
For street use, I am quite confident of my observation & could only report what works best for me (YMMV, depends on car, setup, etc.): I *try* not to let the tires go over 32/36 hot, for street, and when the driving gets serious, would stop occasionally to bleed off as needed. Above this 32/36, I don't feel that traction is optimal. I cannot find the chart now but I believe this is as recommended by manufacturer, and of course confirmed by the people whose advice I seek.
 

Last edited by cannga; 01-01-2011 at 01:46 PM.
  #25  
Old 01-01-2011, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cannga
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Hi Paulthanks for your valuable input and happy New Year
Happy new year to you Can and no worries as always. Love a good discussion even if i have strayed you all someway off the beaten track with your OP.

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For track tire discussion, if you don't know already I would highly recommend the GT3 rennlist forum [URL="http://www.rennlist.com"]www.rennlist.com[/URL] . There are guys there with true encyclopedic knowledge and whom I would trust very much; that's the forum I visit for search and adviceBTWI believe Hoosier on 18 is one of the common choices
Cant say ive had the time to do so outside of 6speed. One gets only so much time for forums but i will endeavor to do so at one point. I did join up as a member at renntech or rennlist (forgot which) some while back but just never got the time to take it further. Ive found 6peed to be better formated and the easier to use site so thats where i put whatever time i get for any forum viewing and chat. There is undoubtedly some valuable information over there, as there is here also, but i still cant overlook where the most valuable source is often found, that being each tire manufacturers technical advice service. No matter which way you look at it these guys should know what works best after all they work with manufacturers such as P to get the right tire combo working, and to get the business for proving their own tire case.

And on the 18's i totally agree they seem to be the choice over 19's for the die hard guys.

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For streetI assume the question isare R compounds of benefitThe answer is it dependson two thingshow fast you are driving obviously, and [B]how stiff the suspension is.[/BOne thing that I would like to emphasize that I don't think has been discussed here, [B]is the most critical issue of tire and suspension matching[/B]. The key to remember here is that my car has a very stiff suspension, much stiffer than yours for example. 
Agree road environment and terrain of operation is usually key as is suspension set. On road environment i would say if you are doing 80% general street and 20% aggressive sporty driving in canyons or likewise then the PS2 is a better and more practical choice. I have even seen some guys with GT3's remove their R cups and use PS2 in this situation just for added comfort and convenience of being able to drive safely in the wet. If on the other hand you are just using your car for the weekend thrash then i would agree the R cups are the better selection.....regardless of suspension set up etc. Re suspension stiffness and the better tire selection: I would agree that the r cups are better suited to stiff suspension hence P selecting them as standard equipment on their GT cars. My comment made in my post where i stated i fail to see the point using r cups on street was generalized and made in reference to 997tt stock suspension cars such as mine and, using the car predominantly as a DD in regular driving conditions, so i will edit my post on that to be more specific to clear up that point. However that said i maintain the 997tt sport setting is far from soft and not a great deal different from Bilstein's pasm normal mode so there are similarities there. Th SC sport being slightly firmer than the Billy normal. The main difference i found between the Bil pasm in normal mode and the oem susp in sport mode was that the Billys gave a more "overly taught and jiggy ride" on the rebound which wasnt all too comfortable during general street use/non sporty driving etc. After owning cars with both set ups i find the oem suspension in SC mode setting can easily advantage whatever benefits an R cup tire can offer in sporty driving conditions (for most drivers) so on the track or similar conditions you can certainly drive much faster through corners with R cups than say PS2's....no question on that. I agree there is always going to be an advantage of sorts using a tailored coil over set up for track use....no question....but lets face it many of us like the flexibility of retaining the use of our cars as a DD's without getting our fillings shaken out of our mouths. Now if i was using my car predominantly at the track then i would (probably) go the set up you now have. Would still consider the TPC set up in favor tho....no offense .

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Keep in mind also that my discussion is related to the speed and style of canyon drivingwith 40-70 mph corners for exampleNOT the sweeping 100 mph large radius curves at track venues
Tracks generally have a mixture, usually many more tight corners than long sweepers so the tires certainly come up to temperature after a couple of warm up laps. In fact some of the corners are full horseshoe double apex so the tires sure get one heck of a work out. With no cops and a more controlled high speed driving environment with no trees or posts to crash into (or oncoming traffic) i believe a track will certainly give any canyon a good go for its money in terms of which works the tires harder through the corners. A track will any day of the week imho. You tend to push way harder than what you would ever contemplate on a country back road or canyon.

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[B]1. In a softly sprung car[/B], cornering speed (again in tight curves of streetis limited by body roll due to the rather soft stock springsIn other wordsat least for methe tire adhesion of Michelin Pilor Sport is more than enough for the speed that the stock suspension allows you to carry in any given corner -- the car rolls too much and limits your cornering speedIt is not necessarily a good idea to use R compound tires on the soft suspension of the stock car
Driving skills will determine any limits there and again in oem sports mode the car stiffens right up and still maintains a nice compliance so R cups are of a huge advantage in the right conditions using oem suspension.

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There was an interview of Walter what his name in which he went over thisThe key to this issue is related to the construction of R compound tire. And that is, while R compound has soft rubberit has very stiff side wallWhen you match a stiff tire to a soft suspensionwhat happens is when you enter the corner at the now higher speed that the stiff springs allow,[Bthe stiff tire does not give and all of the high(ercornering force "overloads" (I believe this is the word he usedthe soft spring
Im assuming you are talking about Walter Rorhl? Anyway, no argument from me on that. He of all people would more than know his stuff when it comes to P cars.
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(Having said all of thisR compound tires will increase time at the track even with soft suspensionit's not just optimal. It is said that it's worth 5 seconds at the 'ring when one switches from PS2 to R compound. That's a life time of difference.) 

[
B]2. In a stiffer car,[/B] as cornering speed now increasesthe adhesion of the tire will be testeddepending on how fast you are pushing any given corner. [B]And it doesn't have to be higher speed either,[/B] if you take a 40 mph corner at 60 mph, the test on adhesion is not any less than taking a 130 mph curve at 100 mph. Meaning, you will break traction in the former, not latter. 
Agree. Stock Ps2's vs Cup r's are worlds apart....as are slicks again. But Stock suspension in sport mode is hardly soft. Maybe not as stiff and taught as a bilstein coil over set up but still stiff enough for most drivers to more than take advantage of a set of R cups in sporty driving conditions. Remember that very few of us possess the skills of Walter Rorhl or professional race drivers that are able to micro anylize and utilise the benefits of a race suspension set up.....making the various comments to explain the differences etc.

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Sorry for my interminable rambling. :o It's necessary to answer the question of who and how one could see the benefit of R compound. [B]The answer as mentioned is it depends on a. how stiff your car is, and b. not how fast, but how faster you are than you should be :eek::) in any given corner. [/B]
Bottom line is, not for Paul of course, but for those with stiffer springs in your car and who have never had cup tires, it'
s a remarkable transformation for those curvy roads that beckon at "weekend" speed LOLThe car his held down as if by the hands of God and I believe it will be an eye opening experience for many who try (I once was very skeptical toobelieve me.). Just be extremely careful when it's wet and during the first 10 minutes of driving. 
No worries and agree with you Can. But re the wet conditions on R cups, they are a waste of time imo and should be avoided in fast driving conditions. When at the track when its wet you are always better using stock PS2's.....swap back to R cups when it dries etc.
Please see above comments. Sorry for posting in your post but i thought it would save some time by answering to specific points.

Cheers
Paul
 
  #26  
Old 01-01-2011, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cannga
Re. pressure for track use, what you say could well be true, but again, I would bring that discussion to rennlist's GT3 forum. A lot of trustworthy experience there!
For street use, I am quite confident of my observation & could only report what works best for me (YMMV, depends on car, setup, etc.): I *try* not to let the tires go over 32/36 hot, for street, and when the driving gets serious, would stop occasionally to bleed off as needed. Above this 32/36, I don't feel that traction is optimal. I cannot find the chart now but I believe this is as recommended by manufacturer, and of course confirmed by the people whose advice I seek.
1) Trustworthy experience acknowledged, i still maintain its well worth the cost of a phone call to the manufacturers customer service dept to have a chat with an experienced tire tech. You may find yourself to be right....you may be wrong....you may also learn something valuable and of benefit to your driving conditions and wheel alignment set up. So to the topic of tire pressure monitor warnings: If the manufacture (Pirelli) says you are better to raise your pressure then this may well bring the pressures within a scope the monitoring system can function without undue warnings. Let me know how you get on. Pirelli P zero Corsa's may well have a different pressure regime than the Michelins PSC....although both being 19" i doubt it will vary too much....but i'm happy to be proven wrong. As i found, when the pressures were at 38 hot the car really felt much more sure footed and composed through the tight stuff whereas before when they were @32 it always felt squirmish and i couldn't produce the same times. It was the same with my C2S which had the Bilstein pasms and GT3 LFCA set up so i cant say anything changed on that note re tire pressures regardless of softer or stiffer suspension set up...The higher 38 hot pressures worked better on the 19 Mich PSC's....no doubt about it . Tire wear was also noteably improved . Needless to say when you are finished with the canyons and are doing the drive home you can always lift the pressures back to stock levels....using them for whatever general street driving you may do. I find using nitrogen will also help soften your ride a touch using that hard coil over set up.....every bit helps to make it more tolerable in the ride..
 
  #27  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by speed21
I have even seen some guys with GT3's remove their R cups and use PS2 in this situation just for added comfort and convenience of being able to drive safely in the wet.
This is actually much related to my discussion of matching tire to suspension. For the same reason that you don't want to put stiff wall tire into a soft suspension, you don't necessarily want to put soft tire on a GT3. While this could be done (and I don't mean to be critical - I'm sure said GT3 owners are aware, just discussing here because it's relevant), even after acknowledging that it's an "planned" compromise, it's still a bad idea. The higher cornering speed of a GT3 will cause tire wall deformity, so for the short time the tires will be more useful in the rain, the owners are willing to sacrifice the very function of the GT3? (Use a different car is a much better idea.)

BTW, when I iron out the details/possible misunderstanding, we agree on a lot of points, just expressing it differently. One example: Yes all my reference to soft Turbo suspension is in the normal setting, and I understand immediately and agree when you mention that the Firm is a good match for the stiff tire. That said, there is a reason that I had assumed the Normal setting is the only one worth using in the Turbo:
The Firm suspension of PASM gen 1 in the Turbo has drawn criticism from a number of (good) reviewers, tuners, and users from its very beginning. It achieves stiffness the wrong way: because of the inherently soft spring rate, stiffness was achieved by jacking damping rate to very high level. (Stiffness is much better done by stiffer spring and then matched damping, not just jacking up the damping.) The result is a very harsh and very jittery firmness. The ride is almost bone-jarring, besides the nervousness, to the point that I think the Firm setting is unusable unless for perfect glass smooth surface -- not the intention of a Turbo. Gen 2 PASM's change was acknowledged in reviews and interviews at the time of gen 2 Turbo release, and is much improved over gen 1. If you have a chance, test driver a gen 2 and you'll see what I mean. PASM Firm in gen. 2 Turbo is also firm, but much more compliant, a significant improvement over gen 1.

BTW, I know you migh not agree with what I write now about stock Turbo suspension and PASM gen 1 (at best a work in progress, at worst a design flaw), but given your mod oriented history of track usage/Bilstein and your knowledge of suspension tuning and what it does, I will wager a (friendly) bet that by this time next year, the stock suspension or spring will be gone from your car.
 

Last edited by cannga; 01-02-2011 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:46 AM
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Paul, another example of us talking apple and orange, even though we might be saying the same thing: When you wrote 38, you meant pressure on the rear tire, didn't you? When I wrote 32, I was talking about the front tire! 32 front/36 rear.
And yes, no argument that track usage is a world apart. Just think of the fried PCCB's at the track: "Never" happens on street driving.

The forum I mentioned was www.rennlist.com , not the other renn -- the GT3 section only (Turbo is at best so so). That GT3 section is the only Porsche forum that I don't post, but lurk often. And yes serious and trustworthy track knowledge -- for example your point of running 38 cup tire would generate a ton of agreements, or counterpoints, there I am sure. (And so will my post on matching tire to suspension, etc.)

Yes it was Walter Rohrl I was talking about. Despite of the rumors - ha ha - most of what I write does not come out of thin air; but mere repetitions of extensive web research - grin. He mentioned tire/spring matching when he was talking either about the 997.2 Turbo suspension and/or about the street GT3 that they were going to race at the 'ring last year. As soon as they decided to use stiffer tire - cup to slick I believe? - in the car, they changed the spring specifically for the tire.
 

Last edited by cannga; 01-02-2011 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga
This is actually much related to my discussion of matching tire to suspension. For the same reason that you don't want to put stiff wall tire into a soft suspension, you don't necessarily want to put soft tire on a GT3. While this could be done (and I don't mean to be critical - I'm sure said GT3 owners are aware, just discussing here because it's relevant), even after acknowledging that it's an "planned" compromise, it's still a bad idea. The higher cornering speed of a GT3 will cause tire wall deformity, so for the short time the tires will be more useful in the rain, the owners are willing to sacrifice the very function of the GT3? (Use a different car is a much better idea.)


Its probably not the best idea if your driving flat out but the guy i specifically spoke to said he used slicks on the track and just wanted his car to be more user friendly in all conditions during DD use. Im sure if he pushed the car to the limit during street use there would be a trade off but lets face it how often would that ever happen.


BTW, when I iron out the details/possible misunderstanding, we agree on a lot of points, just expressing it differently. One example: Yes all my reference to soft Turbo suspension is in the normal setting, and I understand immediately and agree when you mention that the Firm is a good match for the stiff tire. That said, there is a reason that I had assumed the Normal setting is the only one worth using in the Turbo:


For general traffic use while not pushing too hard near the limit normal is usually used...correct. But its nice to have the comfort during those majority moments and the degree of limit you normally operate the car the normal mode setting and stock suspension is fine.


The Firm suspension of PASM gen 1 in the Turbo has drawn criticism from a number of (good) reviewers, tuners, and users from its very beginning.


Yes but the majority of those comments come from very experienced drivers driving the car at the upper limits, usually on a track environment too. For most drivers, pushing a car to test its limits is a minority situation and one which may never even happen for many drivers who simply don't possess that level of skill to even go near those limits. Sometimes having less surety in the hands of the less experienced is a good thing. I've heard it said once you raise the handling limits of a car beyond the capability of the driver you create a situation where the first off/crash will be the last....as the speed will be that much higher again. I think there will always be pluses and minuses in every performance upgrade. Not saying they shouldn't be done....but saying when they are done one does them with full understanding of any shortfalls or misgivings and, within ones own limitations as well.


It achieves stiffness the wrong way: because of the inherently soft spring rate, stiffness was achieved by jacking damping rate to very high level. (Stiffness is much better done by stiffer spring and then matched damping, not just jacking up the damping.) The result is a very harsh and very jittery firmness. The ride is almost bone-jarring, besides the nervousness, to the point that I think the Firm setting is unusable unless for perfect glass smooth surface -- not the intention of a Turbo.


True but in may ways the same could be said for the damptronic coil over firm setting as well. These Firm settings are always best kept for those perfect smooth roads.


Gen 2 PASM's change was acknowledged in reviews and interviews at the time of gen 2 Turbo release, and is much improved over gen 1. If you have a chance, test driver a gen 2 and you'll see what I mean. PASM Firm in gen. 2 Turbo is also firm, but much more compliant, a significant improvement over gen 1.


Can I covered this point in the other thread where i said if i had not been for GTR, P would not have paid so much attention only to then spruce off about it.
Needless to say P never makes any successor worse. As i also said, just wait for 991tt and i will be hearing how bad .2tt is too. Then we will all be crying in our soup.....modded suspension or not .


BTW, I know you might not agree with what I write now about stock Turbo suspension and PASM gen 1 (at best a work in progress, at worst a design flaw), but given your mod oriented history of track usage/Bilstein and your knowledge of suspension tuning and what it does, I will wager a (friendly) bet that by this time next year, the stock suspension or spring will be gone from your car.
Can if i new of a given that would give me the handling without compromising the ride id take it on but i havent got anyone prepared to give me that garrantee at the moment. So, I think for now my moneys looking pretty safe . A set of GT3 LFCA's, and good alignment with some sways will most likely see me through to the 991tt......and then we'll be having this same discussion again i bet when 991tt.2 comes out .
 
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga
Paul, another example of us talking apple and orange, even though we might be saying the same thing: When you wrote 38, you meant pressure on the rear tire, didn't you? When I wrote 32, I was talking about the front tire! 32 front/36 rear.

No. The Michelin guy set it 38 front and rear. I asked why the same front and rear and he said pressures are kept the same front to back. Mind you when i was running 31's and 32's they were always kept the same front and rear as well. I always thought that was odd but everyone was doing it so i had no reason to challenge guys that were more experienced than me. He did say that the front at 38 was good as thats where the load really happens more coming hard under late brakes in high speed corner entry.


And yes, no argument that track usage is a world apart. Just think of the fried PCCB's at the track: "Never" happens on street driving.


Yes. I can just see it all now. Rohrl says to P during a full PCCB changeout....come on guys...whats another set of replacement PCCB's amongst friends . I think thats why the steels will be better for me....and many others. The PCCB's may be better but boy do they cost, and then maintain .


The forum I mentioned was www.rennlist.com , not the other renn -- the GT3 section only (Turbo is at best so so). That GT3 section is the only Porsche forum that I don't post, but lurk often. And yes serious and trustworthy track knowledge -- for example your point of running 38 cup tire would generate a ton of agreements, or counterpoints, there I am sure. (And so will my post on matching tire to suspension, etc.)


Yes well again i go back to the manufacturer knowing what should be best. Opinions are a bit like backsides.....everyone has one. Not saying they should be dismissed or ridiculed but logically there should be no arguing with the maker who has done the real yards in track and street testing on the car using that specific product. I generally prefer to put my money on a given. Mind you i had a lot of expert opinion/users bleeding my tires off to 31 prior too.



Yes it was Walter Rohrl I was talking about. Despite of the rumors - ha ha - most of what I write does not come out of thin air; but mere repetitions of extensive web research - grin. He mentioned tire/spring matching when he was talking either about the 997.2 Turbo suspension and/or about the street GT3 that they were going to race at the 'ring last year. As soon as they decided to use stiffer tire - cup to slick I believe? - in the car, they changed the spring specifically for the tire.
Yes Can, well it would be great having that level of expertise backing you. What better combo than having a driver like Rohrl and a manufacturer like Porsche making these decisions. And again we are talking about the car being pushed at its outer limits at the ring at the hands of a factory driver so it goes without saying having that level of resource at your finger tips to make fine adjustments and changes to spring rates is a situation one could only dream of having. I can imagine this is also where the tire manufacturers are also working on the coal face. Just imagine the expense involved in developing a car like this to get it to perform as it does....mind-blowing stuff. And then the journos go and lay the boot into it .
 

Last edited by speed21; 01-03-2011 at 06:12 AM.


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