Rain & Shine at LS with RE-11s
 

Well our season has finally started here in NorCal after what seemed to be the longest three months ever. My last track event was at Infineon and it was cold and wet, 54º (11.21.10). I opted to run a new set of Bridgestone RE-11’s in lieu of my MPS CUP’s (which I was never that crazy about). I had a fairy decent day on them once the sun came out. They would start to let go around 24 minutes into a 30 minute session.

After 25 of the last 29 days of rain here our Laguna date finally arrived on 3.25. Needless to say it was pouring rain, therefore once again I chose my RE-11’s over a freshly mounted set of R6’s (I can’t wait to run these). I must say I was very impressed with their wet weather performance (the RE-11-s). The car had plenty of grip and I never once went for a spin. The first three morning sessions were very wet and cold, 46º. The sun came out after lunch and dried a completely green track for us to rubber in (which didn’t really happen) but my car and tires were loving it! High temp for the day 54º. My tires were very predictable and held their grip for the full 30 minute run sessions. Also I must add my AP Racing CUP rotors and Pagid RS19’s were PHENOMENAL! NO ISSUES whatsoever...insane power and flawless integration with the PCCB system.

If any of you Turbo, C4S, or C2 owners ever have the opportunity to drive your car within your maximum comfort limit in adverse conditions, you owe it to yourself to do so. I‘d have to say my car shined throughout the entire day...set-up, suspension, power, brakes, and tires...it was truly amazing, and a testament to these vehicles and their intended purpose.

Get out and drive!

R6 report to come....

http://www.vizualid.com/6speed/LS_RAIN_02MZ.jpg

http://www.vizualid.com/6speed/LS_RAIN_01MZ.jpg

http://www.vizualid.com/6speed/LS_RAIN_03MZ.jpg

Etchhead (in car iPhone app below) and f1crazydriver were in attendance as well. We all had great day.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VadqxU1Dmzg

Cool, what app is that?

I think its called “Harry’s Lap Timer” It was a bit glitchy, but pretty cool. It makes me want a in-car/camera gps based timing system!

you drive a nice line ;)

Tryin’...thx!

Found a video from the November date at Infineon. I’m in front of the F355. The camera mounted to the front of the WRX is a iPod shuffle!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6fI8f6sWEE

NICE! Well driven too - LS looks like a blast.

Had a fantastic time and got to run through heavy rain in the AM and dry in the afternoon. My Sumitomos lost their edge 15mins into the dry laps... Too much heat. Also glazed my new brake pads (Cool Carbon) as I had very little time to bed them in. Hoping I can turn the rotors and scrub the pads tonstart over again. Also need to upgrade tires before getting serious this year. Those MPS Cups look like a good deal- next on my list, then seats to hold my ass in place.

Thanks for the invite Daren!

Darin, nice driving at LS. You couldn't pull away from that Subbie @ Infineon or did you just want to stay in camera range?

I enjoy seeing these vids so much I'm going to put up some from Sebring. I just got another GoPro for the back view and now all I have to do is figure out how to edit PIP from 2 cameras. I wonder if I could overlay the iPhone GPS data? Hmmm....

[quote=ruf_turbo;3164924] ...You couldn't pull away from that Subbie @ Infineon...?

Too much traffic and we had to wait for point-bys...no where to go. He was fast though... dropped the F355 on Hoosiers and pulled away quickly...well...until we caught back up to more traffic that is. Gotta take the good with the bad.;)

Harry's Lap Timer Pro has several output file types that you could port over. You can also tie it into the OBD port for much more info. For the price it was a no brainer.

As Daren says some bugs, but it was my first time using it so operator error could easily be to blame.

What mount do you use with it?

You can use any of them as long as it ha a firm grip. I used the TomTom iPhone mount with integrated GPS, mic, and speaker. The whole kit including mount/software <$100.

Re: Rotors. Check with a mechanic/brake specialist you trust. My (very good) indy guy maintains that P-car rotors (and other German cars as well) will only last a short time once turned and you're better off just using the $$ towards a new set. I don't have first hand experience with Porsche's but can vouch for it on an Audi. I turned a set of those rotors once and they were only effective for another 3,000 miles or so before going away for good. Good luck.

You can't turn drilled rotors, the cutting bit would get stuck in the holes.

surprisingly an experienced shop can turn drilled rotors. I have had a couple sets done before.

Turning slowly and nit deep on each pass is what they say. It might be easier getting new rotors... Several vendors have OEM and others for cheap. Or do I upgrade all together...

Etchhead and myself dropping down a wet cork screw...

http://www.vizualid.com/6speed/102_029_LS_LZ.jpg

Ruf_Turbo, any luck getting those Sebring videos up yet? We have another LS event on the 20th hoping for warm and dry conditions so I can test out the new R6’s on the GT2 wheels with 7mm’s all the way around. I’ll be sure to snap a few pic’s for you BH.

I was really referring to my NEXT session (May 7) when I have the 2 camera setup...and I can find and learn some cheap video edit program that will let me do PIP.

I can cobble together a couple of laps from the last session, and maybe mix the front and rear camera view, if that is any interest.

^ No worries...wait until you figure out your new stuff. I like the rear cams if you can figure it all out and overlay Harry’s Lap Timer muy bien to you!

RE: Etchead’s Rotors

So I checked with a few different sources (shops) today and they basically all said the same thing.

Critical error made: Putting NEW pads on rotors 10 years old. A groved, ridged, and lipped surface trying to mate up with the perfectly smooth and flat surface of the pads. The two do not mesh, thus creating unnecessary binding and heat resulting in warping the rotos. Unfortunately the pads are now toast as well due to improper bedding-in and glazing. If you were sand down or file off the glazing the pads would then have a rough surface and get chewed up very quickly once you install them on the rotors.

Tough lesson...on the plus side you only wasted cash on the pads. I am really surprised the shop you had the work done at would do this...they should know better.

In the last two years (not counting you) I know of three guys who didn’t bedded their new pads and rotors in properly and wasted both by the beginning of the third session of the day.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors: I found this info below which seems consistent with what I was told after installing my AP Racing CUP rotors.

Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can. If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even purchased a brand new car, you should set aside time to bed the brakes according to the instructions below. Proper bedding improves pedal feel, reduces or eliminates brake squeal, prevents (and often cures) brake judder, reduces brake dust, and extends the life of your pads and rotors.
Immediately after installing new pads, rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brakes will result in very little braking power. Gently use the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.

If you have just installed rotors with zinc or cadmium plating, or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone the bedding process until normal driving has allowed your brake pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating. If your new brake rotors have an oily anti-corrosion coating, you should clean this off thoroughly with brake cleaning spray and/or hot soapy water.

Read and understand these bedding instructions completely before starting. Do not substitute higher speeds for the 60mph called for in these instructions. The heat in your brakes goes up exponentially as you increase the speed from which you brake. If you make repeated stops from 80 or 90mph with street pads, you will overheat the brakes and may end up having to replace pads and/or rotors.

1) From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

2) Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.

3) The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

4) After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.

5) If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need time to conform to the old rotor wear pattern. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.

I would like to add after doing the above, once you get to your first track event its equally important to allow your rotors to slowly cool down after each session. This will be the first time they actually really get used, so proper cooling down is essential. Also once you have circled the pits or parking lot a few times and feel its time to park your car, roll it a few inches backwards every three to five minutes (3 or 4 times after each session). Your pads will retain heat and will not allow your rotos to cool evenly. Therefore may warp or pick-up some small vibrations that will worsen over time.

See attached photo were I left my car sit longer then five minutes after parking it from a session (first track day with them). However, I just took this picture today and that heat sync happen in early September!

http://www.vizualid.com/6speed/Pad_Heat_Sync_MZ.jpg

^ Nice writeup! Reps for you! ^

Another bedding technique is to simply drive around town for a few miles @ 35 -40 mph and apply the brakes while still applying the throttle. The 997's (and perhaps other models) tolerate this dual application for a few seconds and then the motor loses power (safety feature). Release the brake, power is restored, accelerate and repeat a dozen times or so. Then drive around to allow the brakes to cool. Also, at the track in particular, allow the car to coast to a final stop in the paddock (say from 2 mph or so) and never set the hand brake. Best,

PS Great images too!

^ I agree with the hand brake (old school) although on the turbos (and others, not sure???) the hand brake actives a drum brake shoe set-up located inside the rear hats. I still don’t like using it and chalk the car with a 2x4 at track in conjunction with leaving the car in neutral. Actually this is how I park my car in the garage as well...all loosey-goosey.

Thanks for the REPs!

Thanks guys- so picked up new OEM rotors yesterday, GT3 air ducts, and will order new MPS Cups later tonight. Then hope I can grind down my Cool Carbon pads as they are new other than my LS cooking party.

ONE MONTH LATER & ITS STILL RAINING!

Wednesday at LS: 04/20/2011

Well is wasn’t the best day for playing. Overcast and wet almost the entire day, even a shower or two, never saw the sun. I was able to mount up the Hoosiers R6’s after lunch and 17 minutes into the session it poured down on us.

I must say the first thing I noticed with HR6s is how much smoother and compliant they are over street tires. They seem to take a lot of the harshness and edginess out of the ride and made the car feel like one integrated package. Everyone always raves about the grip...and yes the grip in amazing...but the overall ride and increased breaking performance is what struck me first. It was apparent to me within just the first 3 turns...incredable. Coupled with the R6’s mounted to GT2 wheels I added 7mm spacer to all four corners which Shiraaz at Champion Motorsports was able to supply for me (thanks again CMS!). It seemed like these really helped alleviate the inherent understeer of TT’s. Although hard to say with the R6’s now up front. Ended up going with 235/35‘s and 315/30’s in the rear. So far so good.

Within that 17 minutes was able to get a few laps in to get a feel for them and build my confidence. I pulled in, checked the pressure and lugs, went back out and got one warm-up and one pseudo hot lap..wet curbs, traffic, and lifting for sound...but I did manage a 1:44...then the rain came and the magic was gone.

I was able to take advantage of two run groups/classes which was nice because these groups ran back to back. Therefore I logged 106 laps for the day. I tried to make the most of it.

Etchhead had a disappointing day. New MPSC’s, rotors, pads, and GT3 brake ducts, and got a session and a half in. First one damp and trying to bed his brakes in properly, and the second session less then half way through and he had a sidewall failure (rear rt, inside). Had to mount up the spare donut wheel and call it a day. I felt for him...totally sucked...he took it well though.

80 schillings gave me some pointers for T2 which really helped smooth out my line and therefore was able to take the turn much more consistently lap after lap.

Sorry no pictures, the weather just wasn’t cooperating and I didn’t feel much like shooting a filthy car. I did have an opportunity to shoot the spacers before installing them.

Oh yeah, the check engine light came twice OBDII CODE: P1096. I cleared it with my reader once in between sessions and once again at the end of the day for the drive home. It has yet to re-appear???

http://www.vizualid.com/6speed/CMS_Spacers_LZ.jpg

I was with him on the 1:44 lap so add another 185#s to the things working against his time. Nice job, and WOW can those R6s hold in the dry... Little sprinkle and it changed quickly.

My new MPS Cup gets installed Mon latest. No more Laguna events till later this fall. Will have to head back to Sears or try one of the others.

Thanks for the ride!

Below is a quick and dirty snap shot of a black 7mm spacer up against a stock rear hat and with a CMS RS171 rim mounted. The OD is a perfect fit with the OEM hat. Looks great and the fit is very clean. I couldn’t get a sharp shot of the front...I’ll try again when I have more time.

http://www.vizualid.com/6speed/Rear_CMS_7mm_LZ.jpg

05.03.2011

Had some time to shoot the fronts today.

Front rotors are AP Racing 380mm with AP Racing aluminum hats, Pads: Pagid RS19, and ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid.

Rims: Champion RS 171’s, 8.5x19 ET 53, Satin Black, Champion 7mm Spacers with Champion bright silver longer lugs.

I hope you enjoy the photos.


http://www.vizualid.com/SPACERS/03_Front_Spacer_LZ.jpg

http://www.vizualid.com/SPACERS/05_Front_Spacer_LZ.jpg

http://www.vizualid.com/SPACERS/06_Front_Spacer_LZ.jpg

^ This shot really turned out nice...can’t really see the spacer but its still a nice image.


http://www.vizualid.com/SPACERS/04_Front_Spacer_LZ.jpg

^ I like the sidewall tire wear indicator on this one. Used what the tire had to offer.

Darin, you WERE working those tires. :D

^ Hey B-ruf-tee,

When is your Sebring date? Got the dual cameras and video software dialed in yet?

I was able the get the Hoosiers R6’s out for the second half of the day. Overcast, damp and 66º, they were still pretty amazing. Can’t wait for a warm dry event day.

Be sure to post your vids.

http://www.vizualid.com/SPACERS/07_Front_Hoosier_LZ.jpg

http://www.vizualid.com/SPACERS/08_Front_Hoosier_LZ.jpg

This weekend baby! Well Saturday anyway.

I think I am all set with the video s/w so I will post some vids early next week.

SWEET! any new performance gear or just technology?

I just had the EVT775 kit installed but had Todd Z. lower the torque so it wasn't quite so brutal. I was getting way too much wheel-spin. It feels really good and linear now.

WOW! Congratulations! Now we need to get you and Bonehead out on the same track sometime.

:rolleyes::cool::eek:

At my age he'll have to give me a headstart to make it fair. hilarious

B-ruf-tee,

So what power package/kit did you have prior to the 775 upgrade?

Hope you have a great day tomorrow.

Just prior to the 775 was the Evo700. Prior to that was Evo650 and prior to that was Ruf 550. I kinda had it built in stages. :)

We have rain rolling through but hopefully it will be dried out by tomorrow.

06.013.2011 at Infineon FINALLY A PERFECT DAY!

Warm and sunny all day and in the high 80's possibly low 90's. It was good to finally see the sun and have a dry well worked-in track. PCR was there Saturday and Sunday, so they put down a lot of rubber.

Someone showed up in a 2011 599 GTO...very nice car. Think he went out for at least one full session and possible a half after that. Didn't see him the rest of the day, but still cool to see someone out and driving one a safe environment.

Will try and write more tech & set-up info for the when time permits. Nothing too exciting, just a perfect day!

Ha. Just saw this. My car has been asleep for the last month. According to the thermostat in my car, it was 110 degrees on my way home from work today. And it was almost 6PM:mad: My car does reverse hibernation (sleep in the summer, out in the winter;))

Dunno how 'young' you think I am Barry, but I'm sure you won't need too much of a headstart.:p

Daren: you selling the car??

Good eye Ed...yep! Early planning stages. About 15-16 months of factory warranty left on her if you know anyone looking.

PS: You missed a great day...hope all is going well.

Glad you had a great day Daren- I was only three days back in office after 2-week paternity leave so couldn't make the track day.

Really looking forward to any next event, but looking at the various clubs it might have to be Thunderhill.

Your 997 is a dream, what are you thinking of moving to?

Cheers- Mark