$15k will buy you the whole OEM ceramic kit.

http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...=997TTCERAMICS

 

bbywu,

While the old adage you get what you pay for is not a truism I think its unfair to compare spark plug prices to ceramic brake parts or even an entire ceramic brake system. I'm sure you would agree that going with the least expensive option doesn't always turn out for the best in the long run. You may be able to get purportedly new OEM parts and Porsche dealer level service for substantially less money at a private tuner than an authorized dealer, but if you have a major issue will your supplier/local tuner stand behind their sale ? I'm quite sure that many will be honorable, but I'm 100% certain that an authorized dealer will honor their product and service, albeit at a premium. As an attorney I can tell you that only a fool would use a "will kit" obtained from staples to do their estate planning, but I'm sure that plenty of people opt for same saving many thousands of dollars in the process. Its not that your opting to be ripped off. Rather you are opting to have less problems. If you have been burned by a dealer that truly sucks, but like I said I have been lucky with my local dealer thus far. BTW I saw how many posts you have and its scary intimidating ! Do you own 6 Speed or what ?

 

He is not only the president, but also a member :P

 

I am jaded from past experiences, but I respect your point of view.

As far as posts, check out Alex

I'm just a blabber mouth.

 

bbywu, the best blabber mouth to ever live... Do you use PCCB on your gt2?

 

Salerno 713,

I think all GT2's are OEM with the Porsche ceramic brake system (PCCB system). Unless his ceramics were fried and he replaced it with non-ceramics (which apparently many track day warriors do).

 

Thanks everyone for the helpful replies. Slawek thanks, can't leave the "Speed" - best source of Porsche info on the net. Bob you always give me a chuckle with your frighteningly broad knowledge and database. So from your estimate, let's say 750 for parts, 450 for labor ($150 x 3 hrs), dealer is charging me nearly double? Wow so very "rude," and KY wasn't even offered. I am willing to pay 400-500 more simply because if there is damage to rotor, dealer will be much easier to deal with than Indi shop, but this is a bit much.

Someone asked about mileage: my Turbo baby is a daily driver has around 33k miles, no track except one time it was driven fairly roughly in the twisties (LA canyon roads) for a few hours by a Car and Driver Magazine's test driver, and I do the same myself. 30 to 40 thousand miles *seems* to be the range of PCCB pads needing change from what I've noticed (anyone corrects me as needed).

SonicKrack, PCCB's ROTOR is the part that is supposed to last 75 plus k miles, and very likely even more, essentially for the life of the car. Incredibly, I still don't know if anyone of us *non-track* people here has to replaced a gen. 2 PCCB rotor. Is that still true?

 

BTW, for others with PCCB wondering when to change, rumor has it that PAG recommends changing PCCB pads at as early as 50% pad wear, as this ensures that the rotor doesn't get damaged. There has never been an explanation for this rumor/recommendation.
I think the reason is simply that it gives more margin of error against owner wearing out pads without knowing, and worn out pads are likely a terminal event for PCCB rotor.

Because we change pads so infrequently (30-40k), over the typical lifetime of the car, this simply means one extra pad change. This makes it easy to just follow the rumor "blindly." IOW, earlier is probably than later, and when in doubt, just change it.

Regardless, as mentioned above, it seems non-track people are changing PCCB pads around 30-40k.

 

Cannaga,

I have an 07 997TT with PCCB and tracked my car only 3 times. Have 46K miles on her now and changed pads at dealer at around 40K miles or so. I will admit that I do driver her hard and she is a DD, but I can't imagine these pads lasting 40K miles if you tracked your car a dozen times per year (ie. 40-50 track days over 4 yrs. or so). Gotta say that my brakes are awesome. For an extra $500 its not a KY situation. Go to the dealer and bust their ***** if you have any issues. Thats what the $500 extra is for - ball buster insurance.

 

^^^Agreed. All bets are off if you track the car frequently.

 

The parts and labor charges vary - I think if you go strict Porsche labeled OEM, most dealerships will charge a fairly significant higher price than what Suncoast, Sunset, or Sonnen offer.

I think 3 to 3.5 hours is doable and reasonable for front and rear pads and a flush - especially if you have a lift and can remove all the wheels at once without jacking up each corner.

 

Sorry Can , but this is a complete rip off!!!...

i Get the Pads front and rears are around 500 dollars from Sonnen , My dealer charges for 1300 dollars for the pads and 200 for fitting, so if i went the dealer route it will cost me 1500 dollars,

But when i order pads from sonnen 500 dollars + fitment at the dealer for 220 dollars including sensors etc so total is around 720 dollars......

 

My guess is the thicker pad dissipates heat better -- the more you heat up your rotors the more you're going to see the surface cracking.

Perhaps Porsche found that if people keep pads at 50%+ thickness you greatly reduce the chance to see these cracks as you'll be minimizing the heat you put into your rotors.

Of course, it probably doesn't hurt to tell people who buy $100,000+ cars to replace parts more often than they technically need to, especially when they opt for PCCB

 

I didn't think of this but it's a very reasonable explanation.

OT: I notice you have Mobridge in you signature. Care to comment on this thread https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...xperience.html please? TIA.

 

Can,

Dealers will usually ask for 1 hour of labor per corner. If you grind them a little, they should negotiate for about 3 hours of labor.